@ Vectrex: I think one of the problems can be quality. There seems to be more slop in budget lights' threads, requiring more lube, attracting more grit or leaving more lube behind.
You are likely using higher-quality torches with the thicker lube, as well as with diving lights - the thicker stuff being extra insurance against water intrusion.
I generally use the thicker stuff in joints that are less frequently used, along with those using metal/plastic threads. (e.g. Jetbeam PA40, Fenix LD40)
I like the thinner stuff (RemOil, et.al) on tailcaps, since they are more frequently removed for battery installation, and are more often wiped down (and re-lubed)
I had the silicone jelly on a Fenix L1P and a Quark at one point. The Fenix particularly didn’t like it because of its fine threads.
My silicone jelly came from a plumbing dept, so there may be thinner versions. It might work good on lights with sloppy threads.
yepyep. that's the perfect version. Item no. 21030, i.e. 3 oz. of the standard Synco product. I talked to the company and they informed me that "Super Lube" and "Superlube" are protected trade names in Germany and that's the main reason why nobody in the world is allowed to officially sell Synco's product under this name ("Super Lube") in Germany, neither thru a distributor channel, amazon or ebay unless you want to risk getting sued. There might be other reasons why most/all U.S. dealers do *not* ship the original product to Germany economically ( i am not going to pay 8 or 10$ ebay shipping costs cheapo me hehe). I found a German dealer who sells the liquid form of Synco's Super Lube, namely the Super Lube Precision Oiler (renamed to "Synco Lube Oiler"):
That dealer might be able to offer "Synco Lube Grease" in future but that might take a while. So for the mean time i've ordered the Synco Lube Oil and will test it for you, me, us. Typically watchmakers and camera fetishists use Superlube Oil .. for minimum friction in rotating fine machine parts (watches, clocks).
I am just looking for minimal drag in my twisties (Romisen zoom, Quark tactical UI, AAA keychain lights), especially on bare aluminium threads.
I will keep you posted if kreisler recommends the stuff or not. be my word the last on the topic "synco's super lube oiler". where's your trust, where's my credit? i am doing it as BFL service ;)
If you have any stores (ConUS would be Cabella's, Bass Pro Shops, Gander Mountain, etc.) locally that cater to fishermen, you might try fishing reel grease or fishing reel oil. Ardent is one brand I've thought of trying, but I'm testing out bicycle chain oil right now.
Thanks for the tip. However I'll do no more testing (experimenting) other than the just ordered superlube oil. In fact, the Synco company's engineer recommended suberlube grease over the suberlube oil when i asked him which one would better suit my needs (non-anodized aluminum threads, twist UI). but let kreisler have the final word on this topic "superlube grease vs. superlube oil". My total was €6.89 (=9.xxUS$) for the oil (and it should be better than silicone oil because mine contains teflon), and i already wasted much time on the Nextorch ****, so i'll be fed up with the lubing topic if the oil turns out to be a disappointment.
If it does, i'll try to sell it here (krrrhh).
And go back to the dry state: no lubes, nothing. bone dry.
i am almost(?) sure that my dad's got similar stuff in his garage or workshop but i guess i prefer to import my own mini original tube Made in USA and keep it neatly in my personal drawer. and i am not interested in any further experiments. Any synthetic lube with added teflon will do the trick i am sure, be it cyclist's lube, fishing's lube or gun oil. They are also more expensive than Superlube. Superlube is brand name stuff and yet the cheapest of all teflon-based lubes.
Looks and feels like milk when applied. You have to let it dry before using the lubricated parts, which then get a thin coating of lubricant that indeed doesn't attract dust as much as common grease. Not quite "dry", though, something between grease and wax, I'd say.
I took a look at the Weldtite TF2 you linked to, appears to be similar to White Lightning. I am not a fan of this for bike chains, prefer wet oil based lubes, but some cyclists in dry climates prefer it. My only caution on using it in flashlights is once the milk dries, it has a tendency to flake off - so it could work it's way into other parts. I'd test it on a cheapo flashlight (sparingly) and see if it works for you.
For one, it would be messy with flashlights. It's very thin (runny), with the dispenser orifice much too large for that (lack of) viscosity. You have to be very careful not to get it all over the place. Then there is the wait to dry. Then there is the potential teflon buildup...
I use it to advantage on machine guide rails. Have still to try it on feeding tables, like the planer's.
I saw a single reference to it on CPF with supposedly good results, would be nice to hear from others before I purchase. It's quite expensive for what it is!
i have finally applied the superlube OIL on all of my 10(?) flashlights and i've come to the conclusion: this is the exact kind of lube that i was looking for, it works perfectly well and it gets the kreisler's shilly two thumbs recommendation:
kreisler's Overall Rating: ★★★★★
it works really well on:
+ o-rings (silicone, rubber, i dont know, i mean who cares, wtf)
+ anodized aluminum threads (e.g. Tank E09, Lumintop Worm)
+ non-anodized, bare §$%&! aluminum threads (e.g. Quark X AA)
In all above cases, the stuff works much much much better than the Nextorch Silicone Grease C*ap. What else can i ? Since it's liquid, it easily flows into all grooves and slots with little external movement (e.g. twisting action). For example there is no need to lift or remove the o-rings; the oil would get there anyway. And now i am seriously wondering en quoi the superlube GREASE is superior for our application on flashlights. Maybe the grease is superior maybe it isnt, i dont know. I only have the OIL, and it does a fantastic lubing job: it effectively reduces the friction (drag/resistance) on the o-rings, makes the o-rings wet and "juicy", and also reduces friction in the threads, for two reasons: because it is non-sticky oil/liquid and because it contains teflon particles.
As mentioned earlier, the superlube oil is typically applied in fine rotating machinery, such as watches, clocks, and photo cameras. And since grease isnt commonly regarded as "liquid", i would assume that greased machinery parts produce more friction than fine oiled ones.
The only fear with OIL is/was: Isnt it too liquid, too messy and doesnt it run away?
My answer is: Yes, it is liquid (and viscous like liquid glue) but it doesnt run away. And no, it's not messy at all. ( *real oil* like the edible oils from your kitchen, *those* are messy stuff. surprisingly the superlube "oil" has not very much in common with what you would expect from a substance called "oil". not messy, not sticky. and easily cleaned/wiped away with kleenex )
I am not going to look any further. I know that there are even better flashlight lubes than superlube grease and superlube oil.. but i am satisfied already: reduced friction in the threads and on the o-rings!
Merely the performance on Ti-Ti threads (and SS-SS threads?) is questionable. My iTP A3 Titanium squeaks as if the threads were bone-dry: While it's better than bone-dry or the horrible Nextorch silicone grease, i am sure that there exists much better performing lube on Ti-Ti threads. Just a matter of price. As always. Because the more pricey option would be Nano-Oil, for US$ 16.00 shipped:
I have noticed that on certain lights the unanodized threads turn grey with in a short time no matter what I use - heavy viscosity chain oil or SuperLube grease. I think it is the ones with cheaper grade aluminum. On some I am curious about your experience with this phenomenon is with all your different lights. Can you watch and report back in a few days?
? Since it's liquid, it easily flows into all grooves and slots with little external movement (e.g. twisting action). For example there is no need to lift or remove the o-rings; the oil would get there anyway. And now i am seriously wondering en quoi the superlube GREASE is superior for our application on flashlights. Maybe the grease is superior maybe it isnt, i dont know. I only have the OIL, and it does a fantastic lubing job: it effectively reduces the friction (drag/resistance) on the o-rings, makes the o-rings wet and "juicy", and also reduces friction in the threads, for two reasons: because it is non-sticky oil/liquid and because it contains teflon particles.
