EBD-USB allows easy control and logging with PC software, but won’t work without a PC; it is both a USB meter and also a load tester.
ZL1100 has a built-in tiny display (but still need an independent power source) and can also have its data logged into a PC, but there’s no pre-made software to automatically make graphs from those data. This is only a load tester (although it has some added functions, like USB protocol detection). Additionally it can be used to test wire resistance (USB cable).
The EBD-USB can also be used to check cable resistance, but you have to do the calculations yourself, whereas the ZL1100 automatically calculates it for you onscreen.
The ZL1100 can be used to check USB Type-C, but I’m not sure if it has much further use. The ZL1100P is supposed to add USB Type-C PD (power delivery) testing, so if that function really works, then I suppose it’s one of the first USB PD load tester (are there any other USB Power Delivery load testers out there [for non-professionals] ?)
In the above review, I don’t seem to notice reference to update the firmware of the EBD-USB+.
From browsing around, the procedure is as follows:
disconnect micro-USB cable from the EBD-USB+
there are four holes on the bottom of the EBD-USB+, short the outermost holes with a piece of wire
3) connect the micro-USB cable from PC to EBD-USB+
4) run the EB Tester Software, but do not press “Connect”
5) Menu: System => Firmware Update = Identify
6) if #2 above was done (shorted wire), clicking Identify will show the model “EBD-USB+” (if not shown, then maybe not done correctly)
7) press “Update” button.
8) remove the shorted wire before Connecting and using the EBD-USB+ again
click the rectangular box with down arrow (5.3M) to download the software package (it’s on the same line as “eb_v1.8.5en_0605.rar”)
In my case, my EBD-USB+ came with v3.2 (it’s partly shown on the lower right corner box of the EB Tester software).
After I updated, it’s still v3.2 (I think the firmware file is part of the EB Tester software package)
I don’t know the “changelog” between updated firmware and previous firmware (if any)…
EB Tester software usage notes (based on my testing and browsing), that may not be readily obvious:
- in the graph, dragging the “Current” and “Voltage” labels, one can reposition the labels onscreen
- in the Auto-Test, double-clicking the Run Data will expand/shrink the chart table
- right-clicking on the graph will show data values for that position
left-click and dragging on the graph will ‘zoom in’ that portion of the graph
Pardon if this is OT; but if you want to use the tester without being phsically connected to your PC you could try a ESP8266 module with ESP-Link firmware and a virtual com port.
Set ESP-link firmware to 9600 baud and 8E1 parity. (Not the "normal" 8N1!) And establish a virutal com port with HW groups VSP (single port version is free for personal use).
Downside seems to be that it requires futher trickery to work properly. I had to "overwrite" one of my bluetooth COM ports with the virutal one (no idea why that was allowed, its not allowed with non bluetooth ports) as the only ones listed in EB software are other Prolific2303 serial ports and bluetooth ports (and only COM ports below 20?). Alternatively its possible to start EB tester software, and remap the prolific COM port, and then create a vitual with the same number; pain in the * to do each time you start the EB tester software though.
Just wire the ESP8266 in parallell with the PL2303 chip, providing it with 5V, GND and take the Tx/Rx pins over to the ESP8266 and off you go.
Both ESP module like wemos d1 mini and the PL2303 use 3.3v logic level, but probably better to supply 5v than 3.3v to the PL2303. (or more to the point, not load the PL2303 3.3v regulator with the ESP)
I soldedered from PL2303 to Wemos D1 mini:
Pin 1 to GND
Pin 2 to Tx Pin 7 to 5v
Pin 4 to Rx
(Or just get a 3.3v HC05 module and wire that in as well, might work without trickery but I havent tested it. PL2303 pin 8 has 3.3v output for a BT module - provided PL2303 is fed 5v ofc)
As usual, there’s no changelog, and comparing the file sizes of the previous one and this new one, there’s only minor difference, so we’re not sure what’s added (perhaps just added support for some new ZKE Tech devices…)
Thanks for pointing out, the software download web page appears to have been changed to another page on the same website here: 电脑联机软件下载 - 灼智科技（ZKETECH）_np=7_302
Just found this forum and your post about the EBD-USB. I have one and have used it to load batteries under test. I have also seen others using it to monitor batteries while being charged, i.e. monitoring and graphing the voltage and current of the battery being charged. I would also like to use it to monitor batteries during charge but I have found no information anywhere as to how to do this. A few videos show that the female connector on the side of the EBD-USB is used for battery charge monitoring but no connection details. Any information would be welcome. Thank You
The idea with the out connector is that it measures current, the voltage will not be that precise due to connection and cable resistance (That is just me, I like a lot of correct digits).
So to set this up, you would need a way to route the current to the out connector, like two wires with an insulator in between at one end of the cell. Right?
You would need to route then source current to the input connector and the char current from the output connector. There is no need for any extra isolator, you just need to draw all your current from the output connector, without any connections to the input connector.
You’re talking about measuring from the USB port, not from a cell, right? Because if not, I’m not clear on how this would work to monitor the current at the cell.
If you want to measure how a battery charger works (the actual CC/CV curve used to charge the battery) you would insert the EBD-USB between the charger terminals and the battery, not between the USB power supply and charger power supply input. For this you need to come up with some cable adapters as the meter only has USB ports.
Here’s how you would connect it (just using a different meter and lots of unnecessary adapters, keep them to a minimum and use as short and thick cables as is practical)
