What did you mod today?

I have found the white plastic is nice to diffuse (smooth) the spots made by the LEDs and works well on single color, 2X LED builds with white tailcaps.
You always make the nicest multi color blends.

I got a bunch of the Convoy lighted tails off ElfLand AliXp store when they became available. Too cheap to pass up and for the included parts they are good to have.

At attempt number three, the first attempt was half a year ago, the bezel of my EC21 finally surrendered! The head clamped firmly into a vice, stoked up incredibly hot with a blowtorch, tightly wrapped in a strip of inner tire and giving it all the strength of my hands, it finally gave in.

Red loctite :rage:

Jos , when your hands recover , my mh20 waits to be opened :stuck_out_tongue:

Haha , tried twice already , maybe i should try a third time too , for now i’m trying not to damage the light …

Djozz,

Free commercial to loctite :+1:

:open_mouth:
I want to open an MH12GT some time in the future for a mod, was there any damage done to the anodizing?
How did you clamp it in a vice without squishing it?

EDIT- oh you mean you clamped the hexagonal part in the vice, right? not the bezel

No need to heat, just use force :-p

Though I do understand why manufacturers do that, it still irritate me when I discover red/green/whatever color loctite in a light…

The only way to weaken The red loctite is by using heat (anything above 150c+ is enough to melt it)

Regards

You also have to clamp firmly without scratching the anodizing…
Wood jaws are really helpful, and inner tube allows firm grip

The vice is aluminium and the claws are flat and painted, so indeed on the hexagonal part the head could be clamped tight without damage. The ano on the bezel is not discoloured.

:+1: :partying_face:

[quote=djozz]
At attempt number three, the first attempt was half a year ago, the bezel of my EC21 finally surrendered! The head clamped firmly into a vice, stoked up incredibly hot with a blowtorch, tightly wrapped in a strip of inner tire and giving it all the strength of my hands, it finally gave in. Red loctite :rage:

My cw mh20 is glued. NW is not.

Whoo-Hoo! A milestone reached today!

I re-flashed a nanjg 47 today! First time ever! Re-flashed several times. Erased. Re-flashed again, just to prove it worked.

I got the USBasp board, wires and Pomona SOIC-8 clip a week or so ago. I have MHV AVR shell as well as Atmel Studio 7 on my laptop.

I threw together a little test board; a cell holder, reverse clicky switch, emiiter and the nanjg 47 I had on hand. The idea of the board was to make it possible to try the re-flashed driver without having to open a light. I even added a 4056 charger board I had on hand.

First I erased the std nanjg firmware. That was a success as the “light” quit working. :slight_smile:
Then I flashed NLITE to the driver and it worked first time! Great feeling.

Next I wanted to try some other firmware. I selected JonnyC’s STAR firmware. That does not come in a ready to use hex file like NLITE. Okay… a new learning experience. I used a few reference pages here on BLF. this, and this one, mainly. Thanks to all who contributed to those as well as others I read.

Atmel Studio 7 is new to me. It took some ‘feeling around’ and reading to make some sense of it all. I downloaded the xxxx.c file from toykeepers repositry and began. I have not done any programming for a couple of decades. Eventually I made a hex file that worked.

I am so pleased. I also know I have some study and trials to go through before I can make it through the process without having to check references. I need to make myself a step by step guide document as right now it is all a blur.

Cool Don. You are far past my ability making the *.hex
I took the cheater route. But still is a good feeling to get it flashed to a driver and working result.
CONGRATS!!

Thanks. I bumbled my way through somehow. For a while my Bitdefender settings were not allowing Atmel Studio to run the hex making process completely. That was a puzzle until I realized the problem. I really want to learn enough so I can set the emitter levels to what I want without having to read a handbook for every step. That’ll take a while.

I agree, I like the diffused/smooth look the white plastic washers make. I need to order some Convoy lighted switch sets too.

I discovered that the 5” chuck on my lathe can hold virtually any bezel tight enough to break whatever glue they use. Spin it up with a propane torch hitting the approx thread area then use a large Boa Constrictor rubber strap wrench. On occasion a 16” channel lock comes to aid. :wink:

Thank you Toykeeper! I just used the .c file for the tail-light firmware to practice making a hex file and it worked when flashed to the nanjg driver. Wonderful! I like the bi-level blinky. It should make a good tail light. Thanks again…. fun while learning!

Modded my Jaxman Z1 with a MT-G2 Q0.

Turned out pretty good.

Much better than the XHP50 that was in it.

It was very hard to break my UT02 too. It was soaked in thread lock. it needed heat, and some heavy equipment to break it. I wrapped the head with very big cable and the tube with leather. The tube bent a little oval so then the Liitokala black 26650 wont fit. So I needed tu put in the wise again to press it back to circle.