What did you mod today?

:+1: :partying_face:

[quote=djozz]
At attempt number three, the first attempt was half a year ago, the bezel of my EC21 finally surrendered! The head clamped firmly into a vice, stoked up incredibly hot with a blowtorch, tightly wrapped in a strip of inner tire and giving it all the strength of my hands, it finally gave in. Red loctite :rage:

My cw mh20 is glued. NW is not.

Whoo-Hoo! A milestone reached today!

I re-flashed a nanjg 47 today! First time ever! Re-flashed several times. Erased. Re-flashed again, just to prove it worked.

I got the USBasp board, wires and Pomona SOIC-8 clip a week or so ago. I have MHV AVR shell as well as Atmel Studio 7 on my laptop.

I threw together a little test board; a cell holder, reverse clicky switch, emiiter and the nanjg 47 I had on hand. The idea of the board was to make it possible to try the re-flashed driver without having to open a light. I even added a 4056 charger board I had on hand.

First I erased the std nanjg firmware. That was a success as the “light” quit working. :slight_smile:
Then I flashed NLITE to the driver and it worked first time! Great feeling.

Next I wanted to try some other firmware. I selected JonnyC’s STAR firmware. That does not come in a ready to use hex file like NLITE. Okay… a new learning experience. I used a few reference pages here on BLF. this, and this one, mainly. Thanks to all who contributed to those as well as others I read.

Atmel Studio 7 is new to me. It took some ‘feeling around’ and reading to make some sense of it all. I downloaded the xxxx.c file from toykeepers repositry and began. I have not done any programming for a couple of decades. Eventually I made a hex file that worked.

I am so pleased. I also know I have some study and trials to go through before I can make it through the process without having to check references. I need to make myself a step by step guide document as right now it is all a blur.

Cool Don. You are far past my ability making the *.hex
I took the cheater route. But still is a good feeling to get it flashed to a driver and working result.
CONGRATS!!

Thanks. I bumbled my way through somehow. For a while my Bitdefender settings were not allowing Atmel Studio to run the hex making process completely. That was a puzzle until I realized the problem. I really want to learn enough so I can set the emitter levels to what I want without having to read a handbook for every step. That’ll take a while.

I agree, I like the diffused/smooth look the white plastic washers make. I need to order some Convoy lighted switch sets too.

I discovered that the 5” chuck on my lathe can hold virtually any bezel tight enough to break whatever glue they use. Spin it up with a propane torch hitting the approx thread area then use a large Boa Constrictor rubber strap wrench. On occasion a 16” channel lock comes to aid. :wink:

Thank you Toykeeper! I just used the .c file for the tail-light firmware to practice making a hex file and it worked when flashed to the nanjg driver. Wonderful! I like the bi-level blinky. It should make a good tail light. Thanks again…. fun while learning!

Modded my Jaxman Z1 with a MT-G2 Q0.

Turned out pretty good.

Much better than the XHP50 that was in it.

It was very hard to break my UT02 too. It was soaked in thread lock. it needed heat, and some heavy equipment to break it. I wrapped the head with very big cable and the tube with leather. The tube bent a little oval so then the Liitokala black 26650 wont fit. So I needed tu put in the wise again to press it back to circle.


OOOH, thats bad news on the UT02. I just got my first one a couple days ago and haven’t messed with it yet.

This was ordered about half year ago but it is the black led centering ring version. The tube now circle and the 26650s fit again. The pipe wrench wasn’t enough length with my force so that is why I used the big pressing tool tightened to the tube. The only damage I have after it is that little scratch on the tube block knurling edge:

Here are the pics of the whole disassembly
I twisted off the led with untightening the bezel but it doesn’t damaged so I resoldered back.

OK just checked, mine is white centering ring. And NO GLUE on the tube. Phew. Will try the resistor mod on it tomorrow.
Read a lot about these and saw a couple vids, but I was suprised how short the light was when I opened the box. I like it a lot and think it has potential beyond the resistor mod.

Nice mod. Defiantly love the MT-G2. Sure it’s old, but I still think it’s way better then the xhp50.

Wow thats odd that the LED came off like that.
Is the MCPCB DTP? kinda looks like it in the pics.
Thanks for the pics and link to them all.

Yes the MCPCB is DTP. It wasn’t the first time I removed the bezel and in the led solder I found some air bobbles so it was not perfect.
My stock numbers:
2,2A at battery
897 lumens
74800 cd

After R100 resistor mod I got these numbers:
3,65A at battery
1250 lumens
103000 cd
You can see my google tables with beamshots and compare a lot of other lights. :wink:

Well done Don. :+1:

Some nice stuff going on here & well done Don.

:heart_eyes: that test board, with the little styrofoam ball to diffuse the led :party:

(it is how I made my first, and last, working radio back in the seventies, with a simple ferrite rod AM receiver and two-step amplifier . After condensing the circuit on a proper circuit board I never got it to work again).

Great that you got the flashing stuff to work. When I retire in 17 years from now and have all the time in the world just before I die, I will pick up these skills as well. :slight_smile: