Cool Don. You are far past my ability making the *.hex
I took the cheater route. But still is a good feeling to get it flashed to a driver and working result.
CONGRATS!!
Thanks. I bumbled my way through somehow. For a while my Bitdefender settings were not allowing Atmel Studio to run the hex making process completely. That was a puzzle until I realized the problem. I really want to learn enough so I can set the emitter levels to what I want without having to read a handbook for every step. That’ll take a while.
I discovered that the 5” chuck on my lathe can hold virtually any bezel tight enough to break whatever glue they use. Spin it up with a propane torch hitting the approx thread area then use a large Boa Constrictor rubber strap wrench. On occasion a 16” channel lock comes to aid.
Thank you Toykeeper! I just used the .c file for the tail-light firmware to practice making a hex file and it worked when flashed to the nanjg driver. Wonderful! I like the bi-level blinky. It should make a good tail light. Thanks again…. fun while learning!
It was very hard to break my UT02 too. It was soaked in thread lock. it needed heat, and some heavy equipment to break it. I wrapped the head with very big cable and the tube with leather. The tube bent a little oval so then the Liitokala black 26650 wont fit. So I needed tu put in the wise again to press it back to circle.
This was ordered about half year ago but it is the black led centering ring version. The tube now circle and the 26650s fit again. The pipe wrench wasn’t enough length with my force so that is why I used the big pressing tool tightened to the tube. The only damage I have after it is that little scratch on the tube block knurling edge:
OK just checked, mine is white centering ring. And NO GLUE on the tube. Phew. Will try the resistor mod on it tomorrow.
Read a lot about these and saw a couple vids, but I was suprised how short the light was when I opened the box. I like it a lot and think it has potential beyond the resistor mod.
Yes the MCPCB is DTP. It wasn’t the first time I removed the bezel and in the led solder I found some air bobbles so it was not perfect.
My stock numbers:
2,2A at battery
897 lumens
74800 cd
After R100 resistor mod I got these numbers:
3,65A at battery
1250 lumens
103000 cd
You can see my google tables with beamshots and compare a lot of other lights.
:heart_eyes: that test board, with the little styrofoam ball to diffuse the led :party:
(it is how I made my first, and last, working radio back in the seventies, with a simple ferrite rod AM receiver and two-step amplifier . After condensing the circuit on a proper circuit board I never got it to work again).
Great that you got the flashing stuff to work. When I retire in 17 years from now and have all the time in the world just before I die, I will pick up these skills as well.