I agree, I like the diffused/smooth look the white plastic washers make. I need to order some Convoy lighted switch sets too.
I discovered that the 5” chuck on my lathe can hold virtually any bezel tight enough to break whatever glue they use. Spin it up with a propane torch hitting the approx thread area then use a large Boa Constrictor rubber strap wrench. On occasion a 16” channel lock comes to aid. 
Thank you Toykeeper! I just used the .c file for the tail-light firmware to practice making a hex file and it worked when flashed to the nanjg driver. Wonderful! I like the bi-level blinky. It should make a good tail light. Thanks again…. fun while learning!
Modded my Jaxman Z1 with a MT-G2 Q0.
Turned out pretty good.
Much better than the XHP50 that was in it.
It was very hard to break my UT02 too. It was soaked in thread lock. it needed heat, and some heavy equipment to break it. I wrapped the head with very big cable and the tube with leather. The tube bent a little oval so then the Liitokala black 26650 wont fit. So I needed tu put in the wise again to press it back to circle.
OOOH, thats bad news on the UT02. I just got my first one a couple days ago and haven’t messed with it yet.
This was ordered about half year ago but it is the black led centering ring version. The tube now circle and the 26650s fit again. The pipe wrench wasn’t enough length with my force so that is why I used the big pressing tool tightened to the tube. The only damage I have after it is that little scratch on the tube block knurling edge:
Here are the pics of the whole disassembly
I twisted off the led with untightening the bezel but it doesn’t damaged so I resoldered back.
OK just checked, mine is white centering ring. And NO GLUE on the tube. Phew. Will try the resistor mod on it tomorrow.
Read a lot about these and saw a couple vids, but I was suprised how short the light was when I opened the box. I like it a lot and think it has potential beyond the resistor mod.
Nice mod. Defiantly love the MT-G2. Sure it’s old, but I still think it’s way better then the xhp50.
Wow thats odd that the LED came off like that.
Is the MCPCB DTP? kinda looks like it in the pics.
Thanks for the pics and link to them all.
Yes the MCPCB is DTP. It wasn’t the first time I removed the bezel and in the led solder I found some air bobbles so it was not perfect.
My stock numbers:
2,2A at battery
897 lumens
74800 cd
After R100 resistor mod I got these numbers:
3,65A at battery
1250 lumens
103000 cd
You can see my google tables with beamshots and compare a lot of other lights.
Well done Don. :+1:
Some nice stuff going on here & well done Don.
:heart_eyes: that test board, with the little styrofoam ball to diffuse the led :party:
(it is how I made my first, and last, working radio back in the seventies, with a simple ferrite rod AM receiver and two-step amplifier . After condensing the circuit on a proper circuit board I never got it to work again).
Great that you got the flashing stuff to work. When I retire in 17 years from now and have all the time in the world just before I die, I will pick up these skills as well. 
I will cut you some slack. In 17 years your retirement will be an extra 3 years away.
Had that covered, I’m 51 now :party:
Such a shame 
Both my mh20 and my mh20gt is glued . These are my favourite stock lights , modding them would complete the deal …
What do you want to do with those lights? Now you got my attention.
Got the TA driver for MF-01 from Lexel last night. WOW!
Worked on the UT02 6500K today.
20AWG wires and bypassed springs. R100 resistor mod and polished the SW cover after it got scratched taking it apart. SW also wasn’t very smooth but it is now.
Impressive light for $30. I liked seeing the Genuine TP5000 chip on the charge board. Nicely made over all too. Killer pencil beam and I am pretty happy with what they call 6500K, no blue IMO. I got 3.78A at the tail on DMM.
Zero back feed to the charge port so I am going to integrate a magnetic port adapter like my M3 Clone.
