the 0R050 resistor may be the current limiter, making it smaller increases output
not sure depending on board layout it may be for the charge circuit
Yeah I was thinking that but I do not know enough. It is 0805 size and the pads and easily do 1206. I had not measured it before taking apart so I didn’t want to add another before knowing. I have some 1206 R050 on the way and have 1206 R100 on hand. Will wait for the other R050 to arrive for easier stack.
Didn’t separate the boards either. Will try on the next go and get some pics. I kinda think all charge is below.
Looks like the S9 was in a giving mood.
Put an R100 on top of the R050 and I get 2.7A at the tail on my DMM.
At 2.7A the light now get s hot with the Noctigon MCPCB. No step down. Holding it in bare hand seems to sink enough heat but standing alone it will get hot and the heat will travel down the tube heating the battery.
It appears to me the charge is all on the lower board with the E-SW.
I separated the two and there is another pair of indicator LEDs under the top driver board that turn on blue with light and the second red LED shows low voltage.
The three pins are, Pin closest to SW (Left) is the SW signal, Middle is Pos and the Right would be Neg.
With the boards separated and a 5V power to the micro USB the blue lights and there is a faint flash of the red as it hunts for something to charge.
Best I can explain it….
Lower Charge board
Top driver board and resistor mod. Also Bottom of the driver board with indicator pair of LEDs.
All my gear is put up for family visiting during Christmas, but I still managed to fit an UCLp lens to a new Red Sofirn SP10B with side switch. Very neat little 14500 light with 4 modes, gained 68 lumens for a simple lens fitment. Took it from 590 lumens to 659. 
Amazon delivered it overnight, on Sunday, even Christmas Eve! Sweet work on Amazon’s part and whoever delivered it…. :+1:
Sofirn is doing some excellent work these days, loving their offerings…
Will be doing a review on their new SP32A tomorrow… (big brother to this little 14500 light)
Had time for a wee cracker mod before starting the Christmas dinner today 
Yeah, we just don’t stop
The DQG Hobi ti dual, with an XP-L HI emitter on one end and an Amber XP-E2 on the other, powered by two 10250 MBI Nukes. Thanks to kiriba-ru for the optics 
CRX is just incredible guy…
Merry Christmas to whole BLF!
I dimmed down my Q8 side button leds by swapping resistors from 33k to a 100k. I only had 0805 size resistors to play with, so I had myself a challenge :person_facepalming:
But all ended well!
Looks good zipelgas. Solder can be very flexible when you need it to be.
The little Sofirn SP10B was making 590 lumens on a 14500 Li-ion cell, really quite good. And 270 lumens on an NiMH AA. I got some new XP-L2’s in today and wanted to see what the tint is, so I put one in this small light.
Now the NiMH makes 496 lumens and the 14500 does 1070 lumens, pretty much doubling output across the board (Turbo, anyway) Tail amperage shows 2.10A on the little light. Pretty neat getting 1,000 lumens from a small 14500 side clicky light!
By the way, it’s big brother (SP32A) also a side clicky, makes almost 1900 lumens from it’s factory XP-L2. 
Pretty neat that just an emitter swap can double lumens at same current.
So how was the tint of that XP-L2? More specs on it?
Damn, if I’d get some 14500s this might very well become my new EDC.
How fried-eggy is the beam with the L2 in there? That’s a flip-chip, neh?
My living room :
Stock driver and mcpcb?
What xp-l2 did you get? I have a 3c bin and it’s more purple for 5000k than I wanted.
Nice lighting, that is an incandescent lamp or you used some very fine tinted leds
I got the 5700K V6 from Arrow. Yes, there is some discoloration as we’ve seen from XP-G3 and now the XP-L2, the flip chip technology and all that, BUT, I’ve found that if the phosphor that is outside the emitter die surface is removed (that which is on the substrate surrounding the die) then most of the discoloration goes with it.
Thanks Dale, definitely will try that.
As a flip chip, there are no bond wires… makes it easy to do a vertical slice beside the die then remove the outside phosphor without disturbing the emitter.
( I haven’t done this to a light that I intended to keep the dome on, usually sliced the dome off first then did the dicing and outer removal.)
Oh, forgot to answer… I cut a 16mm Noctigon down to fit snugly into the small light . It was slightly larger than 14mm going in…
CFL, they were already in the house when we bought it.
Now, it’s 8 GU10 LED spots :
Stock driver right?
How did you cut the noctigon down?
Just ran the edge across a belt sander holding it vertically in my fingers. A bit of a twist as each pass is made, about 3 passes and cool it off before the fingers get blisters. Rinse and repeat for desired result…
Yes, keeping the stock driver for compatability with AA/NiMH/Li-ion