My triple X6 with 5700K XP-L2 is now making 4993 lumens on an Sony VTC6.
The little X5 with a single emitter has a nice hot spot, I’m pretty pleased with it. The triple X6 has a slight hint of that purple, still overall quite nice. I ordered 25 of these L2’s in 5000K, hope they’re satisfactory as I’ll have a few for a while.
An expensive Tool mod today. Back in May I bought a LG 6060 2mW 275nm led for 20 dollar, and 10 pieces (the minimum amount) of 12.8mm diameter quartz rounds (because glass does not transmit 278nm light) for 21 dollar, both on aliexpress. Very little output but an exotic wavelength, I had to make a flashlight with it.
And a Tool.
Finally got around to do the mod
Here’s the led reflowed on a 10mm Sinkpad glued into the Tool pill with Arctic Alumina adhesive. The luck was that I got electrical insulation from the board to the body, which is relevant because led+ is connected to the central pad in this led. If that would not have worked, I had to do the build with batteries reversed.
The stock ledboard was cleared from components and a position was found to solder a 100 Ohm led in series with the circuit, no further driver, just this current limiting resistor. The 100 Ohm was the first value I tried and with 2x 10180 batteries in series (it is a 6 to 8 Volt led) I got 18 mA through the led which is close to optimal.
I made a spacer from a piece of iron tubing painted black to go in front of the pill because there will not be a reflector, this is a mule light. Also the quartz disc can be seen, nothing much to see about it, apart from that I sanded it down from 12.8mm to 12.
A magnet went in between the batteries because they are flat-top and were not making contact.
The finished light, the final tail current is 17.7mA on fully charged batteries.
And it works! 2mW is not much radiation but from close distance it easily lights up copier paper and money. Now I have to dig up what that 280nm marker was in the new 50 euro bill
It took me the greater part of this day to do the build and now my girlfriend is fed up with me absent from the family, so this was the last build of 2017!
Nothing too big ……I simply gave my Thorfire C8s a make over because it had started getting kind of run down looking after having it a long time and also using it a lot.
I stripped all the Anodizing off with some aluminum cleaner (a mild acid basically) and then gave the Bezel a good rub down with some brass and silver tarnish remover to get it nice and shinny, I then lightly polished the rest of the light to give it a more velvet or silky look. I never put a piece of sandpaper or any other abrasive on this one other than the Tarnish remover and used a 100% cotton rag to rub with by hand and was finished in just over an hour.
FET driver … XP-L HI V3 3C on Noctigon and spring bypasses on both ends with 20awg Turnigy.
Making 6.71 amps and 1461 lumens and looks like this…………
Had to add an e-switch, glued to the driver. It is perfectly aligned with the rubber boot
Unfortunately, even with fine tuning of the reflector it doesn’t out throw my Olight M3XS (smaller reflector).
I got around 90% of the Olight throw
EDIT : I put a dedomed XP-L (unknown bin/tint) and now it throws as well as the M3XS !
EDIT2 : Now with numbers :
Stock M3XS : 250 kCd
Modded JM70 : 280 kCd
It has an aluminum pill , that accepts a 17mm driver and a 14mm (i guess , 16mm doesn’t fit) mcpcb .
Reflowed a sst-40 on the stock DTP board
Changed driver with a 17mm fet-only driver w\ Biscotti firmware , and re-used the small brss ring so tube can make contact with the driver (see pic below)
For now i used the optic but i plan to use a reflector
Right now i set driver at 5 modes with memory . At turbo it makes 1620 lumens @ start , and of course it get’s hot in seconds
Haha yea I got a few more that could use it also , but as you know it is time consuming to do the strip and polish stuff.
Be glad to send you some of the aluminum acid I use to get you through a couple of your lights though.
Today I swapped the emitters in my D4 for the fourth,and hopefully last, time. After I made a EE6 and a Sofirn C8 with the Luxeon V, the Nichia 219C 4000K CRI92 tint in the D4 looked bluish to me.
So I reflowed one of Led4Powers MosX 4040 Quad MCPCB’s with Luxeon V’s. If it was a pocket rocket before now it’s insane, the heat is almost instant, in about 3 sec the head is to hot to hold. The amp draw on a VTC6 is 15.93 A @ startup.
I think the Luxeon V is a great emitter with a good combination of tint and output, and the MosX MCPCB’s are easy to work with but they do need a lot of heat when soldering the wires.
g_damian that is really neat. Saw a similar build in the DIY tailcap thread a while back and been wanting to do it. Already have the slow fade LEDs. What resistor did you use?
Thanks I used whatever resistor had been installed (because originally it had ice/blue leds). Just checked that it is 1.2K. Current is 0.9 - 1mA, depending on the colour. I wish there were less red in colour rotation.
The high amount of red is because the chip inside the colour leds receives a too low voltage in this application, I found. If driven properly (which will not happen in a lighted tail), a different colour rotation appears with less red that make more sense.