Jason, just looking at the wattage isn’t the whole picture. The efficiency of the emitter at a given output will change how much of the applied wattage is light and how much is heat. When overclocking the percentage of heat/light changes. So which one is overdriven will tell which one is making more heat. In the case of a 1600 lumen XHP-35 vs XP-L at 900 lumens, they are both in their comfort zones and shouldn’t be getting all that hot… the boost circuit in the Klarus is probably making the heat directly from the driver.
And to establish wattage, forward voltage at the applied current needs to be known, it changes as the current changes. The XHP-35 goes up to some 14.3V when pushed at 2.5A, gotta have actual emitter Voltage at the applied amperage to know the wattage.
An example is my 18V Cree COB in the small DQG Tiny 7x XP-G2 light. At 1A the COB is pulling 21V for 2004 lumens. That would be 21 watts. Yet the small light doesn’t really get hot until quite a bit of time has gone by, so the efficiency is high and most of the wattage is burned as light out the front.
Just ordered the C8 clear from Simon and anxiously waiting for shipment. I think it’s cool people here have direct constact with sellers and can vouche for the good ones.
Not smart, necessarily, because my memory is so bad I quite often mix information… getting it wrong. But some of the stuff sticks through sheer repetition. Lol
The efficiency issue really comes to play in a light like the Emisar D4…small quad with little thermal mass. A set of hard driven XP-G2’s put’s out a lot of heat as compared to a set of XP-L HI’s that aren’t being driven as hard.
I see this clear version C8 XPL-HI has a DTP copper MCPCB, can someone tell me if the Black version C8 XPL-HI also has DTP copper MCPCB?
Here’s some links for the one I’m asking about:
Since October I ordered a lot of black XP-L HI C8-s from gearbest, banggood and 5 from Simon and all had DTP copper MCPCB.
Even the 2100mA versions from banggood.
I am completely puzzled - my brand new Convoy C8 XP-L HI w/ Biscotti is set in such a way that it every few seconds lowers it’s light output until it turns off, regardless of which mode I set it to and I don’t know why.
I use the group with 5 modes and if I, for example, set it to 5th, it will after few seconds shift to 4th, then 3rd and so on until it goes completely off. Any ideas what’s the issue here?
If I wanted to use the clear C8 as more flood light for close work what would be the best way to do it? I see some use frosted glass lenses but wouldn’t a textured lens be even better? I know OP reflectors can help some but I don’t think it would make a huge difference.
Well I’ll be damned, you are right…
I just got Lii-500 and was testing my batteries. In NOR test it has three steps (fully: discharge, then charge and measure capacity, then discharge again) and I missed the last part where it discharges the battery again.
It was well past midnight (more like 5 am) while I was reading the manual and was putting the batteries to test, and later that day I just figured it’d stay fully charged - what a rookie mistake!
my Lii-500 in NOR mode does the opposite, charges, then discharges and measures capacity, then fully charges again.
I did notice however the manual says, discharge - charge - discharge, but after using NOR test over 10 times i can say for sure it will charge - discharge - charge.
take note of the ‘end’ word on the screen. if it is blinking it is charging, if its solid it has charged fully and completed the NOR (normal) test.
Perhaps not the most favorite C8 mod, but I like an orange peel reflector with the big MT-G2 and it’s beautiful creamy white color tint for close-up work. A diffusion film or a frosted lens can make it pure flood, or leave the reflector out completely and glue the lens in place for the ultimate artifact free flood…… mule configuration.
This does require a Zener mod to an FET driver and the use of 2 18350 cells, but I like the result. YMMV
Him say smart stuff. :student: