I doubt we will see widspread use of NTC’s until we move to a more modern MCU with more pins. Like the 1616 or 1617. When we move to those, then lots of doors open.
Also, we are out of space on the tiny25 for anything else anyways, so it sure won’t be added to that.
a NTC could be added to one of the programming pads for sure if vias gets added or drilled
adding a ground pad for it as well should be no problem next to the inductor
So let’s say we build a XHP35 triple in a S2+ shorty using these drivers. 6A at 12V gives us.. 3× 2A per XHP35 so that would be 3× 2200 lumens for around 6600 lumens. Not too shabby
What I’m really looking forward to is efficiency on the medium modes combined with a good UI. A quad 9050 219C can do around 800 led lumen at 6W, if the driver is efficient enough I think something like 600 lumen OTF for 2 hours should be easily doable with a single 18650. That combined with bistro and the option of doing 30W bursts on any battery level, all in a very compact light, would be amazing.
Do we have any estimate for how efficient it will be at around 10W ?
17mm BLF 1S 6-12V Boost driver is in progress
This is a very powerful one, not cheap at all, but we target 8A for 6V LEDs, XHP35 can be as hard driven as desired
17mm and 50W. Truly impressive.
Though any body that has space for 17mm driver only likely can’t take any more than 20W for peak power or 10W for continuous power.
doubleone44 said So let’s say we build a XHP35 triple in a S2+ shorty using these drivers.
Even with a 3A max @ 12V, that's still around 1500lm each for ~4500lm turbo. I see a upgrade in the future for my E2L. Also, the idea of a EE X6 or a C8 w/ xhp35 would be fun. Hmmm, X5 pocket thrower???? Lots of possibilities w/ this 17mm boost driver.
You can get similar numbers with 3V LEDs, for ex. 3x Luxeon V would do ~3x1500lm at 4A each, and with good regulation time becuase of low Vf (~3.15V)
I doubt we will see widspread use of NTC’s until we move to a more modern MCU with more pins. Like the 1616 or 1617. When we move to those, then lots of doors open.
Also, we are out of space on the tiny25 for anything else anyways, so it sure won’t be added to that.
Which is part of why I will be working on and testing yours (plus the latest design is better).
Only interested in this design too. Loneoceans did release his stuff, but to my knowledge no one other than him actually built one. Now he ain’t here no more.
Which is part of why I will be working on and testing yours (plus the latest design is better).
yeah Shoki is working with Eagle and I am with Diptrace, but final design should be technically identical
Then why bother messing with the design? Just use Schoki’s design once it is released.
basically why I was not happy with poor cooling of the boost chip with no viases to the other layers and the option to put more boards on a Seeed 10×10 board in production
and I got no Eagle, no advanced license for it and I think getting used to a 2. program is too much
I did some light load bench tests, before I fried my driver. The most I did was 8W for 15min in free air, with an XHP35.
No problem for the driver at all. The XHP35 was a few centimeters next to the driver, and was shining on it a bit (when I blocked the light shining on the driver with my hand, it got pretty warm). Even with that, the driver got just a bit warm. If I had to guess, it was around 40°C (with 24°C ambient).
The board that I used was the first revision and had bad thermal properties. The newer boards should do better.
a NTC could be added to one of the programming pads for sure if vias gets added or drilled
adding a ground pad for it as well should be no problem next to the inductor
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
So let’s say we build a XHP35 triple in a S2+ shorty using these drivers. 6A at 12V gives us.. 3× 2A per XHP35 so that would be 3× 2200 lumens for around 6600 lumens. Not too shabby
For about half a second before your LEDs reach 200 degrees and start melting.
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
With 12V LEDs, maximum current is around 3A, not 6A. For 6V LEDs, then the maximum output is roughly 6V.
What I’m really looking forward to is efficiency on the medium modes combined with a good UI. A quad 9050 219C can do around 800 led lumen at 6W, if the driver is efficient enough I think something like 600 lumen OTF for 2 hours should be easily doable with a single 18650. That combined with bistro and the option of doing 30W bursts on any battery level, all in a very compact light, would be amazing.
Do we have any estimate for how efficient it will be at around 10W ?
At middle modes likely about 90% or a bit more with the bigger footprint input capacitors
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
17mm and 50W. Truly impressive.
Though any body that has space for 17mm driver only likely can’t take any more than 20W for peak power or 10W for continuous power.
Convoy L2 can take 30W continous
Of course 20mm, 22mm will be availiable as well
The GT buck 2S/4S will be down to 28mm with more expensive 8×8mm inductor availiable
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Even with a 3A max @ 12V, that’s still around 1500lm each for ~4500lm turbo.
I see a upgrade in the future for my E2L.
Also, the idea of a EE X6 or a C8 w/ xhp35 would be fun.
Hmmm, X5 pocket thrower????
Lots of possibilities w/ this 17mm boost driver.
You can get similar numbers with 3V LEDs, for ex. 3x Luxeon V would do ~3x1500lm at 4A each, and with good regulation time becuase of low Vf (~3.15V)
led4power.com
You can fit tiny85 here.
Attiny85 with Narsil switch pad added
also all 3 pads unused now availiable,
one shares the voltage divider, which is in Narsil the indicator LED pad
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Will you be releasing schematics and parts list? It looks like the ATtiny1634 will fit nicely.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/akrylamid/
I will release everything when it’s tested.
Which is part of why I will be working on and testing yours (plus the latest design is better).
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Only interested in this design too. Loneoceans did release his stuff, but to my knowledge no one other than him actually built one. Now he ain’t here no more.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/akrylamid/
yeah Shoki is working with Eagle and I am with Diptrace, but final design should be technically identical
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Then why bother messing with the design? Just use Schoki’s design once it is released.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Just in case and to cross-check for any errors creeping in?
basically why I was not happy with poor cooling of the boost chip with no viases to the other layers and the option to put more boards on a Seeed 10×10 board in production
and I got no Eagle, no advanced license for it and I think getting used to a 2. program is too much
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
did a 24-30mm variant
OPA parts got closer together
12mm inductor to save money with better performance
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Patiently waiting for the single cell XHP50.2 goodness. Any tests!?
Still waiting for parts and PCB’s to arrive.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I did some light load bench tests, before I fried my driver. The most I did was 8W for 15min in free air, with an XHP35.
No problem for the driver at all. The XHP35 was a few centimeters next to the driver, and was shining on it a bit (when I blocked the light shining on the driver with my hand, it got pretty warm). Even with that, the driver got just a bit warm. If I had to guess, it was around 40°C (with 24°C ambient).
The board that I used was the first revision and had bad thermal properties. The newer boards should do better.
I hadn’t seen it mentioned but would it be possible to use 1 or 2S input to output 12v in lights with extension tubes?
Yes it will be possible
Will this driver be able to be programmed to supply 12v 700ma and lower currents?
There are multiple ways of doing this (3 I can think of right now), so yes.
When the 17mm boost driver is ready, where can it be purchased with firmware already installed? (ready to use)
Noob type question I’m sure… I’ve not previously dealt with newly released BLF designed drivers.
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