Thanks 
I used whatever resistor had been installed (because originally it had ice/blue leds). Just checked that it is 1.2K. Current is 0.9 - 1mA, depending on the colour. I wish there were less red in colour rotation.
The high amount of red is because the chip inside the colour leds receives a too low voltage in this application, I found. If driven properly (which will not happen in a lighted tail), a different colour rotation appears with less red that make more sense.
I see, thanks for the info
g_damian, you could try to remove resistor and put 0 Ohm jumper,~1mA current consumption is limited by LD-x4, so it should work better without additional resistance that causes voltage drop.
I guess it counts as a mod, it was too easy though (well, after getting in)
I got my Lumintop BLF GT on Friday, the emitter was the XHP-35 in 4000K tint. For me, thatās just too warm so I removed it and used a cooler tint (re-purposed the HI from my Barracuda). Itās now a more pleasing to me white/cool-white and the throw went up from 1102.5Kcd to 1237.5Kcd (Yes, thatās 1.38 MILES)
Beamshots in stock form, with the 4000K emitterā¦
610 yds is nothingā¦
I believe the trees behind the white barn are around 738 yds away, this shot taken at 112mm, full optical zoom on my G1X
Mondo Hoss light, epic win for Lumintop and the BLF team. Kudos! 
Should probably also state that with an 18GA loop in the negative lead stream at the MCPCB, top of the ramp is doing 1.93A at the emitter and a double click to Turbo is doing 2.45A at the emitter.
The lux testing above was done outside at 15M. 
Nitecore NTP10 with red light, Nichia219C companion light and case mods.
Thatās awesome, some day I am planning to buy myself that pen
Cool, it is a very well made implement but they seem to have changed from the three bearing spring lock to a threaded twist mechanism for posting, which I was not at first happy with but it worked out for the better as I was able to drill & install a nib in the barrel which allows the cap to be screwed on for extra security - the polyfill plastic retainer will wear out quite fast and is the only weak point of this quality item.
How did you get it so clear? Did you polished it, after removing the anodisation?
I have removed the anodisation similar on my short tube of the BLF A6, but its not clear like polished aluminium.
So I finally received my TA driver after I sent it for repair. I had also received a new XHP70.2 while I was waiting. so I installed both and problems were instant. Once I clicked the tail it would always be on (its meant to blink twice until side switch is clicked) but all other functions worked ramp, strobe etc.
I thought the constant on may have been a ground issue so pulled it apart and replaced pos an neg wires with some 18awg I have. put it back together and had the same issue, but then, after screwing down the bezelā¦. nothing no power no nothing. I opened the battery tube to find smoke thought my batteries had shorted but no, turns out the tail switch had basically melted
what amp are the stock L6 tail switches rated to? Is there an upgrade to this switch? or do i need to create some resistance to drop the Amps. ie smaller gauge wire, no spring bypass?
do you think this battery is still ok to use?
cheers guys
sorry to hijack the thread, but im still new to modding and slowly learning.
getting super frustrated my L6 has been out of action for too long :cry: :cry:
Sounds like a direct short from + to reflector base.
Today I updated two quads I made some time ago :
Convoy M1 Quad TPAD XP-L HI 5D, Khatod optics, and a Thorfire VG-10 MosX 4040 Quad LUXEON V 4000K, Carclo 10621 optics.
Both using spacers from kiriba-ru and MTN-17DDm drivers.
Thorfire VG-10(left) Convoy M1 (right)
The Khatod optics give a much tighter beam profile, but itās still very floody. The amp draw is 18.7A for the M1 and 23.1A for the VG-10 both on a fresh VTC5A, this makes the VG-10 the flashlight drawing I ever made, with the Emisar D4 (MosX 4040 Quad LUXEON V 4000K) a close second with 22.4A.
I think when you soldered the 18 AWG wires the solders got too high and the reflector shorted the led wires. That caused the high current and the switch spring was the weakest point. Look into the head for short signs. And make solderings flatter and put on them kapton tape.
Ive got electrical tape on the base of the reflector and the is no sign of contact?
(the black dots are from my phone camera dirt on the lens)
Is there any wires chipped under driver?
There has to be a short somewhere else, strange that it only happened when you tightened the bezel.
Did the LED board rotate & catch the + wire maybe?
Or another idea: on KD boards the wire soldering points are very close to the screws try measure short between the led plus and minus and the MCPCB screws with multimeter.