Led4power.com : LD-4 CC linear drivers, ILC-0/1 illuminated tailcaps, optics, MOSX, copper DTP MCPCBs...

Would it be possible to order the 3XP 4040 board with the luxeons already soldered on it? If so, please PM with information about additional costs etc.
Thanks in advance!

Please add board and leds separately,and just leave me a note in order about soldering, no extra fees.

https://led4power.com/product/luxeon-v-4000k-70cri-led/

Yeah, I just saw that… deleted my post but wasn’t fast enough :slight_smile:

So how does this work, for instance if you use a 4-6A driver does that mean that 4-6 is max current? How much current does the other modes have then? What's the lowest it will go to? What's the mode percentages? Would the ld-4 work with xhp50.2/70.2? aswell how about triples in parallel? For example s2+ with triple xp-g3?

The 4-6 A driver has a high mode that’s configurable over a range from 4 to 6 amps. In the programming, you can set it to be either of those values, or anywhere in between in 250mA steps.

The lower modes are then percentages of that maximum. Lowering the max lowers them all, so they stay visually linear. I’m not sure what the actual output current is for each mode.

The lowest is the “special” moonlight mode, which is independent of the others (in other words does not scale with the maximum) and is instead fixed at either 2.5mA, 5.0mA, or 7.5mA. Or you can turn it off. Its very dim.

The LD4 currently only works with 3v emitters, so no XHP-series stuff. Its great on multi-emitter setups though, as long as its 3v emitters in parallel. I’ve got them on several triples.

Well explained emarkd, thanks:)

I will just add that 6V-12V version of LD-B4 will be available soon.

So if I do a triple xp-g3 and a triple nichia 219 in s2+ what driver would you recommend how much current is good for triple parallel?

what percentage do the modes have? How many amps per mode? Depending on max current they change of course but what wouls they be in general?

The percentages for each mode are all in the datasheet, which is linked from led4power’s website. I’ll link it instead of retyping it all.

oh yeah I must read it through thank you! Btw what do you think is suitable max amps for a triple s2+? What would be best ? how far can you push it? I know it gets hot and should only use high amps in short bursts but what do you think?

9-12Amps total is what most people use for high power builds, driver should be B4 variant in combination with mosled or mosx metal core PCB.

Just for information and maybe a suggestion, have you thought about making a triple mosled board for the E21A? These leds seem like a perfect fit for LD-B4, they have a very low Vf, work well with optics, are avaiable in very interesting tints and are best driven at ~2A, which would make for 6A total max current which I find ideal for small triples. I know Clemence is already making some boards but I would prefer the more traditional/well known triple layout and I don’t think I’m the only one, though I don’t really know how much of a market there would be for something like that.

By the way, I’ve been using my triple X6 with LD-A4 and the LD-B4 E2L a lot lately and I’m really enjoying the amount of configuration options and the ease of use of the configuration menu, after memorizing the menu it becomes really easy to customize the driver on the spot depending on my needs.

+1

Are those nichias compatible with carclo optics? They are very thin and domeless, I'm not sure they would work well with standard optics.

They are compatible for sure as there are official numbers for cd/lm and efficiency on the carclo website ( example ), and they seem more or less in line with the usual 3.45mm domed leds though efficiency looks a bit worse.

I’d guess that the focus would be a bit off, the optic should be a bit closer to the board. A bit of filing of the legs to extend the narrow bit should solve that but it does complicate the mod.
Apart from that, the attractiveness of such a board is a bit dependent on those nice offerings from Clemence, I hope that he is able to keep getting those nice leds.

That said, a triple E21A board sounds pretty cool to me. :slight_smile:

I use those too, but i pushed a square diamond coated file through it, so you have 4 corners filed away.
Perfect fit.

Received my MosX mcpcb’s today , that was fast !

Just tried 2 of them , with 2 Oslon black flat leds (LUW HWQP) .

The reflow was really easy , pads line up exactly and you can remove excess solder easily .

I made a simple setup in a Eagle Eye X6 , with a fet driver using a PSMN3R0-30YLDX fet (not really low resistance fet) . Soldering the wires on the mcpcb is tricky , thank god i have a soldering station with variable temp .

Unfortunately the light it emmits turns blue in turbo (when in direct drive) , so i guess as djozz mentioned the thermal pad of the Oslon isn’t big enough , and the black flat can’t handle the heat on a non dtp board .

I will run some more test tomorrow and report back.

I haven't tested black flat yet, but conclusion is that LEDs with very small die and small heat pad area really need copper DTP. Efficiency of LEDs drops at higher current because of two things: temperature of die, and current itself(why, still not fully explained by physicists) . For most big LEDs second cause is dominant at high currents because lumen stops increasing even if die temperature isn't even close to 150C, which is maximum allowed by most manufacturers. Maybe best example is Luxeon V with industry lowest thermal resistance per mm2 of die (0.8C/W,4mm2), it tops at around 9A, but if you calculate die temperature at 9A (LED on CuDTP, room temp. 20C), it is only 20C+ 9A*3.55V*0.8C/W=45.5C , not even warm in LED world. So second cause is dominant. This means even if you put such LED on non-dtp board which would cause for ex. 10C higher die temperature, that's still only 55C, difference in light output would be hard to detect.

On the other side it seems temperature effect on black flat is considerable, simply because power density for tiny 1mm2 die is very high. Temperature of die with copper DTP at room temperature,5A is 20C+5A*3.9V*4.3C/W=104C , this is quite high, if you take fact that typ. flashlight would have 40-50C temp., then die temp of oslon is very close to max. 150C. That's why every additional deg C caused by non-dtp board would have visible impact. Problem with black flat is small heat pad (3.5mm2, but it's questionable how good is heat distributed over that 3.5mm2 inside package), if black flat is in XM-L sized package, difference between DTP vs mosX would be much smaller.

As I said earlier, I designed mosX Osram/luxeonIR boards for infrared LEDs, where power density (~ max 2A) is much lower than with black flat, I expect no visible difference DTP vs. mosX in that case.

EDIT: When soldering wires to mosX boards, best method is to put some solder on iron tip and try to put some solder on one of the big pads. At first nothing will happen, but as board heats up, solder will melt over pad when board reaches high temperature. So it's important to hold tip on pad steady for some time. After board is hot, sodlering wires on all pads is easier. Board must be on piece of thick paper or some other thermal insulator.