I think the chance is high that some might miss seeing the smoke as it is tough to look into the reflector with Turbo mode on or it was dark outside when they switch off to check the reflector. Sure that many switch on Turbo indoor too, but i think most will not switch it on Turbo long enough because it is very hard to look at the hotspot on wall.
Anyway, the smoke might not cause detrimental damage or leave any visible marks if it is not very serious smoking. I just want to have some precautions about it.
The bezel is way harder to open then the head was to remove on both of my GT’s. The rubber mat worked to get both bezels off, but man what a PITA! I would have used my big strap wrench but it’s at work. It took everything I had to get those bezels off! :person_facepalming:
Both are done now, I even changed the other GT’s emitter to the E2 3A I bought off Lexel both the de-domed E41A and the E2 3A are more to my liking.
I do lots of stuff on BLF, but I’m not on the BLF GT team.
For the GT I’ve mostly just chatted in this thread sometimes, and I’m hoping to port some firmware to the GT soon (FSM and its UIs). This will allow it to operate like a Zebralight, an Olight, a Meteor, or run Anduril (my current favorite UI, similar to Narsil).
We already have a Team account for the GT, it is what was used to post the support thread.
The issue now is that making a new thread at this point would lead to more work for the team with minimal effects on the usefulness for everyone else. I mean people still ask to be added to the list in my review thread, who says people will find and read a separate thread for the GT?
Plus there is the case of it needing to be put together and none of the team has time for that right now. I just started eating solid food again, it will be a little bit before I am ready to do anything more then try to keep up with reading the posts.
I think it would be easier if anything to add a FAQ to the support thread with the latest status updated, since that thread already exists.
After all the nice photos people have posted of their BLF, I might want to order another. When is the cutoff for the $157 price? I want to see if my first arrived before I order another.
UPDATES: It appears that the first shipment went out by region instead of the exact order in which we paid for cost reasons. Initial quality has been fantastic.
The first shipment of lights (168 total) shipped on Dec 23. This was a pallet going to the USA from the first 576th person on the paid list that did not include batteries. Tracking numbers went out on Dec 27 and lights started arriving to customers on Dec 29th. DHL shipping was very fast.
There should be a European order going out in January.
The next group to purchase lights (#1000 and up on the list) will get their emails mid January instead of early January in order to let Neal get caught up with current orders.
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M4D M4X: You can buy 8 of the button top Samsung 35E batteries (seem ideal, high mAh and good amps) for $40 when you buy your GT. No sign up required for these. Battery details are here.
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While I greatly appreciate the mention by pepinfaxera a few posts back & the mention by TA the other day…… I am not a team member & have only answered a few questions, trying to help out; when the opportunity was there to do so.
While admiring our GTs shortly after unboxing, my friend wondered how the tailcap and its spinning lanyard ring worked. I don’t recall seeing photos of it disassembled.
As I mentioned earlier, mine was much more difficult to turn than my friend’s. It certainly was not ‘twirlable’ like the prototype in VOB’s video.
Click play to watch the section of Matt’s video that shows the tailcap lanyard ring.
Hahaa did you not read what T/A said about LUX numbers?
The LED in the GT is overdriven already. It is run at 2.5A in turbo which is about as high as is practical before rapidly diminishing returns.
You could swap the sense resistor and raise it to 3A if you really wanted but you would only gain a small amount for the first little bit until the LED heated up.
The biggest reason for the lower readings then other lights is that the GT is using a Neutral white 4000k emitter vs the CW ~6500k emitter in most other lights.
The lux meters we use are biased to the cooler white range and will artificially inflate those numbers.
The stock LED is a D4 bin. The highest bin that Cree lists in the data sheet is E2, which is 1 bin above D4. Or about 7% higher output. So 7% higher is about the most you can expect with another LED, everything else should be the meter bias.
So my LUX numbers are pretty meaningless since they are CW now and not NW. :person_facepalming:
Too freaking cold for beamshots, but I’ll see what I can do once the temp gets back above zero one of these nights! I do have to travel a bit to the country to get good ones :+1: