UPDATES: It appears that the first shipment went out by region instead of the exact order in which we paid for cost reasons. Initial quality has been fantastic.
The first shipment of lights (168 total) shipped on Dec 23. This was a pallet going to the USA from the first 576th person on the paid list that did not include batteries. Tracking numbers went out on Dec 27 and lights started arriving to customers on Dec 29th. DHL shipping was very fast.
There should be a European order going out in January.
The next group to purchase lights (#1000 and up on the list) will get their emails mid January instead of early January in order to let Neal get caught up with current orders.
.
M4D M4X: You can buy 8 of the button top Samsung 35E batteries (seem ideal, high mAh and good amps) for $40 when you buy your GT. No sign up required for these. Battery details are here.
.
While I greatly appreciate the mention by pepinfaxera a few posts back & the mention by TA the other day…… I am not a team member & have only answered a few questions, trying to help out; when the opportunity was there to do so.
While admiring our GTs shortly after unboxing, my friend wondered how the tailcap and its spinning lanyard ring worked. I don’t recall seeing photos of it disassembled.
As I mentioned earlier, mine was much more difficult to turn than my friend’s. It certainly was not ‘twirlable’ like the prototype in VOB’s video.
Click play to watch the section of Matt’s video that shows the tailcap lanyard ring.
Hahaa did you not read what T/A said about LUX numbers?
The LED in the GT is overdriven already. It is run at 2.5A in turbo which is about as high as is practical before rapidly diminishing returns.
You could swap the sense resistor and raise it to 3A if you really wanted but you would only gain a small amount for the first little bit until the LED heated up.
The biggest reason for the lower readings then other lights is that the GT is using a Neutral white 4000k emitter vs the CW ~6500k emitter in most other lights.
The lux meters we use are biased to the cooler white range and will artificially inflate those numbers.
The stock LED is a D4 bin. The highest bin that Cree lists in the data sheet is E2, which is 1 bin above D4. Or about 7% higher output. So 7% higher is about the most you can expect with another LED, everything else should be the meter bias.
So my LUX numbers are pretty meaningless since they are CW now and not NW. :person_facepalming:
Too freaking cold for beamshots, but I’ll see what I can do once the temp gets back above zero one of these nights! I do have to travel a bit to the country to get good ones :+1:
Iam extremely happy with my light cannon,last night here on new years eve i set my lights on strobe and i got some unexpected attention from order patrol who must have seen my lights striving while on patrol and they lot me up briefly I kindly waves at them and theybweny on there way
Iam extremely happy with my light cannon,last night here on new years eve i set my lights on strobe and i got some unexpected attention from order patrol who must have seen my lights striving while on patrol and they lot me up briefly I kindly waves at them and theybweny on there way
Yes, they got canned. The extra springs under the half circle pieces added too much electrical resistance. They were probably cheaper to produce since the ends were made of plastic, but in the end the went back to their older style carrier. Similar to the one from their SD75 model seen below.