[PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Group buy officially closed! Lights shipping.

While admiring our GTs shortly after unboxing, my friend wondered how the tailcap and its spinning lanyard ring worked. I don’t recall seeing photos of it disassembled.

As I mentioned earlier, mine was much more difficult to turn than my friend’s. It certainly was not ‘twirlable’ like the prototype in VOB’s video.

Click play to watch the section of Matt’s video that shows the tailcap lanyard ring.

1,290,000 CD Flashlight, Budget Light Forum Giga-Thrower! - YouTube got the best of me today, and I decided to find out how the tailcap was constructed, and why mine was hard to spin.

Click the photos to embiggen.

The sticker inside the tailcap hides four blind holes. The scratches are my fault.

I used my small needle nose pliers to loosen the inner piece. It’s reverse threaded.

The tailcap is made of three parts and two o-rings.

The large piece has an o-ring that the spinning ring slides along.

The o-ring was not seated properly in the groove and was partially pinched. I had removed and reinstalled it before these photos.

I removed both o-rings, lubricated them, and reinstalled them.

After reassembling the tailcap, my lanyard ring spins much easier. I think it has just the right amount of resistance.

I reinstalled the sticker inside the tailcap to help protect the anodizing and to further insulate the rear carrier.

Hahaa did you not read what T/A said about LUX numbers?

The LED in the GT is overdriven already. It is run at 2.5A in turbo which is about as high as is practical before rapidly diminishing returns.

You could swap the sense resistor and raise it to 3A if you really wanted but you would only gain a small amount for the first little bit until the LED heated up.

The biggest reason for the lower readings then other lights is that the GT is using a Neutral white 4000k emitter vs the CW ~6500k emitter in most other lights.

The lux meters we use are biased to the cooler white range and will artificially inflate those numbers.

The stock LED is a D4 bin. The highest bin that Cree lists in the data sheet is E2, which is 1 bin above D4. Or about 7% higher output. So 7% higher is about the most you can expect with another LED, everything else should be the meter bias.

So my LUX numbers are pretty meaningless since they are CW now and not NW. :person_facepalming:

Too freaking cold for beamshots, but I’ll see what I can do once the temp gets back above zero one of these nights! I do have to travel a bit to the country to get good ones :wink: :+1:

Goshdogit, those are some top notch pics there. Very professional looking. :+1:

Perhaps our Dear Leader could change the owner of the first post in this thread from The Miller to the team account?

Iam extremely happy with my light cannon,last night here on new years eve i set my lights on strobe and i got some unexpected attention from order patrol who must have seen my lights striving while on patrol and they lot me up briefly I kindly waves at them and theybweny on there way

Iam extremely happy with my light cannon,last night here on new years eve i set my lights on strobe and i got some unexpected attention from order patrol who must have seen my lights striving while on patrol and they lot me up briefly I kindly waves at them and theybweny on there way

yep, i read it………

the pink elephant Easter nimny and tooth fairy all enjoyed the light

whatever happened to these battery carriers?
guess they got canned ?
sure did look nice.

Think they weren’t getting the numbers they were looking for. And narrowed it down to efficiency/passthrough/flow through the carriers.

Yes, they got canned. The extra springs under the half circle pieces added too much electrical resistance. They were probably cheaper to produce since the ends were made of plastic, but in the end the went back to their older style carrier. Similar to the one from their SD75 model seen below.


.

Boredom. Made on New Years Eve. A quicky, figuratively speaking.

thats eggxactly how i would feel if i were you too ! :smiley:
2 funny man!

I would like to be added to the list. Thank you

Coyotehawk will add your name to his sign up list. You’ll see your name when he does the next update. It will be sometime mid January when you are emailed with the details of where to go and how to order.

You can also buy 8 of the Samsung 35E batteries for $40 at the same time as you buy the light. No sign up necessary for those. There are plenty of batteries in stock.

Welcome to BLF.

Please add me to the list.

Although i don’t have much experience with dedoming XHP35 leds ( ive done only one), i find that nitro paint thinner works very good, at least in my case.

It removed the dome completely without any leftovers what so ever. Someone, cant recall tho who was (Kawi or TA) said that cleaning the remaining phosphor on the side of the die will also help for better looking beam.

Thanks Bobby I will definitely tryout nitro thiner then !

GOOF-OFF works good if it’s available! Just try and cut right above the wires and then soak it in the goof-off. I have had success using this and letting it sit over night. Just make sure you use a small glass container. It will eat plastic material :wink:

Just got my tracking number. So should be here this week.

As I’m part of the team I was supposed to get the GT a bit earlier but for some reasons it was delayed.
I can’t say if my shipment is part of a larger shipment to the EU or if it’s a separate shipment just for me.