Cool, it is a very well made implement but they seem to have changed from the three bearing spring lock to a threaded twist mechanism for posting, which I was not at first happy with but it worked out for the better as I was able to drill & install a nib in the barrel which allows the cap to be screwed on for extra security - the polyfill plastic retainer will wear out quite fast and is the only weak point of this quality item.
So I finally received my TA driver after I sent it for repair. I had also received a new XHP70.2 while I was waiting. so I installed both and problems were instant. Once I clicked the tail it would always be on (its meant to blink twice until side switch is clicked) but all other functions worked ramp, strobe etc.
I thought the constant on may have been a ground issue so pulled it apart and replaced pos an neg wires with some 18awg I have. put it back together and had the same issue, but then, after screwing down the bezelā¦. nothing no power no nothing. I opened the battery tube to find smoke thought my batteries had shorted but no, turns out the tail switch had basically melted
what amp are the stock L6 tail switches rated to? Is there an upgrade to this switch? or do i need to create some resistance to drop the Amps. ie smaller gauge wire, no spring bypass?
Convoy M1 Quad TPAD XP-L HI 5D, Khatod optics, and a Thorfire VG-10 MosX 4040 Quad LUXEON V 4000K, Carclo 10621 optics.
Both using spacers from kiriba-ru and MTN-17DDm drivers.
Thorfire VG-10(left) Convoy M1 (right)
The Khatod optics give a much tighter beam profile, but itās still very floody. The amp draw is 18.7A for the M1 and 23.1A for the VG-10 both on a fresh VTC5A, this makes the VG-10 the flashlight drawing I ever made, with the Emisar D4 (MosX 4040 Quad LUXEON V 4000K) a close second with 22.4A.
I think when you soldered the 18 AWG wires the solders got too high and the reflector shorted the led wires. That caused the high current and the switch spring was the weakest point. Look into the head for short signs. And make solderings flatter and put on them kapton tape.
Or another idea: on KD boards the wire soldering points are very close to the screws try measure short between the led plus and minus and the MCPCB screws with multimeter.