So I finally received my TA driver after I sent it for repair. I had also received a new XHP70.2 while I was waiting. so I installed both and problems were instant. Once I clicked the tail it would always be on (its meant to blink twice until side switch is clicked) but all other functions worked ramp, strobe etc.
I thought the constant on may have been a ground issue so pulled it apart and replaced pos an neg wires with some 18awg I have. put it back together and had the same issue, but then, after screwing down the bezel…. nothing no power no nothing. I opened the battery tube to find smoke thought my batteries had shorted but no, turns out the tail switch had basically melted
what amp are the stock L6 tail switches rated to? Is there an upgrade to this switch? or do i need to create some resistance to drop the Amps. ie smaller gauge wire, no spring bypass?
Convoy M1 Quad TPAD XP-L HI 5D, Khatod optics, and a Thorfire VG-10 MosX 4040 Quad LUXEON V 4000K, Carclo 10621 optics.
Both using spacers from kiriba-ru and MTN-17DDm drivers.
Thorfire VG-10(left) Convoy M1 (right)
The Khatod optics give a much tighter beam profile, but it’s still very floody. The amp draw is 18.7A for the M1 and 23.1A for the VG-10 both on a fresh VTC5A, this makes the VG-10 the flashlight drawing I ever made, with the Emisar D4 (MosX 4040 Quad LUXEON V 4000K) a close second with 22.4A.
I think when you soldered the 18 AWG wires the solders got too high and the reflector shorted the led wires. That caused the high current and the switch spring was the weakest point. Look into the head for short signs. And make solderings flatter and put on them kapton tape.
Or another idea: on KD boards the wire soldering points are very close to the screws try measure short between the led plus and minus and the MCPCB screws with multimeter.
I have had the same thing happen before. Unless you had the short going for some time , the driver and cell both should be OK. You may have lost a little bit of life off the cell by raising the Internal resistance slightly if anything.
If you haven’t already tested it ,you can get a more controlled result if you have a short jumper wire and just hold it against the end of the tube and the negative end of the cell and then have someone hit the side switch to see if everything is working OK before you put the tailcap on the light. This way if the light does still have a short or anything you can break the connection much quicker than trying to get the tailcap back off.
I would say the battery should be OK if its not getting hot shorting too long, the weak link is the spring and switch
2 26650 Keeppower High Drain cells shorted you look likely at up to 100 amps no wonder spring and switch quit
Those batteries have IR of like 20mOhms, maybe another 30-40mOhms on wires and spring bypass
so we got like 8V on 60mOhms
if the original DTP board does not fit the size of the new you always can drill a hole in the shelf and simply twist one of those self cutting screws in it that are often used in plastic cases if you got no thread cutters
I had the rotating star also a few times, cutting in the wires, never turned out good melting some stuff
You can check the driver if the LED- pad has a very low resistance to ground ring the short created that voltage spike and blew the AMCs, but this usually happens only if the driver had the gate of the AMCs activated