Started with a MT03 that had a bad driver from the factory.
Ordered a TA driver from Lexel and the build began.
started by removing the stock driver.
Next I installed the new driver. (Lexel says ground for the switch goes on the left, i changed it during troubleshooting, I assume it shouldn’t make a difference since the switch is just completing a circuit, but what do I know lol)
Now I have everything but the switch LEDs soldered on (waiting to hear from Lexel where those wires go).
PROBLEMS IM HAVING-
The light is randomly turning itself on, when it does it will ramp to turbo, stay for around ten seconds and then…….blink blink pause blink.
I think that driver will feed 4.2v into the switch led. So with only one led you can run 2500 ohm or 5000 ohm resistor. If you run 2 leds in parallel then a 5k to 15k ohm resistor should work.
If both leds won’t light at same time, they might need more power. Check to see if there is a resistor on the switch pcb.
Anyway, I think you got it mostly figured out. Maybe Lexel can shed some light on the delayed switch problem you have. He can be hard to understand at times. He’s like a mad scientist with English as a 2nd language. Lol
If the light ramps up random and starts blinking after 8 seconds this indicates that inside the light the right switch pad receives a ground signal
From what I see on the MT03 drivers pad markings and you switching the wire polarity on the TA driver it looks like the LEDs may share common anode
The TA driver is build for common cathode
If those common anode wires are loose and touch ground inside the light they can cause a false switch signal, so unsolder the wires from switch PCB if you are not going to use them
To change common anode to common cathode you need to reverse the LEDs on the solder pad
It would help a lot to solve this if you could do macros from both sides of the switch board
I think that resistor is 1000 ohm. Smaller than I would expect.
The black surface of the switch makes it hard to see the circuits underneath. If you have a continuity tester I would draw out the switch on paper and then test all the wires to see how they are connected.
Did you say the leds are red and green? Does that correspond to the R and G next to them? (Sometimes they do and sometimes they dont, you can’t just assume)
Also, did you tape up the ends of the led wires when you put the driver in? You can’t have those bare wire ends touching anything.
Okay, so the R led is connected to the blue wire and the G led is connected to the yellow wire.
Are the other ends of the leds connected to the red or black wire?
Once you know that, then you can take a battery (maybe a discharged one at 3v) and a resistor (1,000 to 20,000) and run some power through the circuits. Then you know if it’s a positive or negative common wire.
Getting back to the switch problem. Does a continuity circuit show the switch is working like it should? Does it want to ramp up with thd switch cover off? It’s just really odd it works fine, ten minutes later acts like the switch is shorted internally.
The leds sometimes have a unique shape. Some have green dots. Do yours have that notch cut out on both ends, or have that dot under the lens on both sides?
I did a test last night and when clicking the button my tester would beep, let go of button it stops beeping. I thought I was all good to go besides eventually dealing with the switch leds, then the weird thing happened where it just turned on by itself.
I think I have another switch (no leds) and was going to put it in the light and see how that acted, if it works fine then ill know I need to rework the original switch leds, ill get started on switch testing soon.
