Okay, so the R led is connected to the blue wire and the G led is connected to the yellow wire.
Are the other ends of the leds connected to the red or black wire?
Once you know that, then you can take a battery (maybe a discharged one at 3v) and a resistor (1,000 to 20,000) and run some power through the circuits. Then you know if it’s a positive or negative common wire.
Getting back to the switch problem. Does a continuity circuit show the switch is working like it should? Does it want to ramp up with thd switch cover off? It’s just really odd it works fine, ten minutes later acts like the switch is shorted internally.
The leds sometimes have a unique shape. Some have green dots. Do yours have that notch cut out on both ends, or have that dot under the lens on both sides?
I did a test last night and when clicking the button my tester would beep, let go of button it stops beeping. I thought I was all good to go besides eventually dealing with the switch leds, then the weird thing happened where it just turned on by itself.
I think I have another switch (no leds) and was going to put it in the light and see how that acted, if it works fine then ill know I need to rework the original switch leds, ill get started on switch testing soon.
Light seems to function perfectly with switch and driver not mounted. could there be a short somewhere when I tighten the driver retaining ring? also if I put either of the led power wires to the right side of the diode above the switch wires they will come on, they stay on at all times.
I did run it without any switch and it worked fine, there was some fine solder dust on the pads above the switch pads when I got it. I made sure it wasnt crossing any other pads.
Going to put it back together again with switch hooked up and see how it does.
On the plus side, it looks like the switch lights are figured out. A common negative ground. So if you do hook those up you need to make sure the black switch wire goes to negative.
You could combine the blue and yellow wires to make both light up, but you’ll probably need an extra resistor. You’ll need more resistance than 1000 ohm.
Did you say it only messes up when the driver is mounted into place? If so it might mean the issue has something to do with that.
I also can’t comment if the indicator lights are supposed to be always on or not. My TA drivers are older and don’t have any indicator function. I just wired them to constant power to show if power was connected or cut off.
The continuity test of the switch does not reflect the proper function of the switch in any way
Even if the switch gets down to 100kOhms it will pull the MCU pin down to ground
A quick and dirty fix for this would be a 4.7kOhms pull up resistor from MCU Vcc to switch pin 2 of the LED, this would eliminate false signals down to like 1 kOhms
So measuring on the board the resistance between both switch pads is a good indicator if there is a problem, same for the switch assembly, both should show at least 1 MOhms
I tested here a few boards with values of 3-6MOhms depending on polarity
I discovered sometimes dust and moisture on a board make things act up weird
This is why I clean the boards after testing them with alcohol and an electrical tooth brush, unfortunately the solder paste flux does not dissolve well with alcohol so tiny solder balls from reflow sometimes stick to the board and do survive cleaning, but if they do they wont come loose later