New Convoy C8 – Clearly better

Not smart, necessarily, because my memory is so bad I quite often mix information… getting it wrong. But some of the stuff sticks through sheer repetition. Lol
The efficiency issue really comes to play in a light like the Emisar D4…small quad with little thermal mass. A set of hard driven XP-G2’s put’s out a lot of heat as compared to a set of XP-L HI’s that aren’t being driven as hard.

If they can be equally focused, I suppose.

I don’t find the C8 hotspot to be too small, but I wouldn’t want it any tighter. A bit larger would be good, although at the cost of reduced runtime.

I see this clear version C8 XPL-HI has a DTP copper MCPCB, can someone tell me if the Black version C8 XPL-HI also has DTP copper MCPCB?
Here’s some links for the one I’m asking about:

From Gearbest:
https://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_356677.html

From Simon:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Convoy-C8-with-XPL-HI-LED

Since October I ordered a lot of black XP-L HI C8-s from gearbest, banggood and 5 from Simon and all had DTP copper MCPCB.
Even the 2100mA versions from banggood.

Great thanks!

I am completely puzzled - my brand new Convoy C8 XP-L HI w/ Biscotti is set in such a way that it every few seconds lowers it’s light output until it turns off, regardless of which mode I set it to and I don’t know why.
I use the group with 5 modes and if I, for example, set it to 5th, it will after few seconds shift to 4th, then 3rd and so on until it goes completely off. Any ideas what’s the issue here?

Your battery is empty. :wink:

If I wanted to use the clear C8 as more flood light for close work what would be the best way to do it? I see some use frosted glass lenses but wouldn’t a textured lens be even better? I know OP reflectors can help some but I don’t think it would make a huge difference.

Well I’ll be damned, you are right…
I just got Lii-500 and was testing my batteries. In NOR test it has three steps (fully: discharge, then charge and measure capacity, then discharge again) and I missed the last part where it discharges the battery again. :smiley:
It was well past midnight (more like 5 am) while I was reading the manual and was putting the batteries to test, and later that day I just figured it’d stay fully charged - what a rookie mistake! :smiley:

At least you know that your battery protection is works in your light :smiley:

Agreed! :+1:

my Lii-500 in NOR mode does the opposite, charges, then discharges and measures capacity, then fully charges again.

I did notice however the manual says, discharge - charge - discharge, but after using NOR test over 10 times i can say for sure it will charge - discharge - charge.

take note of the ‘end’ word on the screen. if it is blinking it is charging, if its solid it has charged fully and completed the NOR (normal) test.

+1

Perhaps not the most favorite C8 mod, but I like an orange peel reflector with the big MT-G2 and it’s beautiful creamy white color tint for close-up work. A diffusion film or a frosted lens can make it pure flood, or leave the reflector out completely and glue the lens in place for the ultimate artifact free flood…… mule configuration.

This does require a Zener mod to an FET driver and the use of 2 18350 cells, but I like the result. YMMV

DC-Fix it !

PM member Boaz for some help with your situation .
:face_with_monocle: :beer:

Yup, or if you have an old laptop or smart phone (or TV) you’re going to throw out, use its diffuser film:

All that fuss….
Maybe i’m a thicko, could be…
But i really like the Convoy LD25 driver.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-LD25-Flashlight-circuit-board/330416_1018316904.html
It’s a 3 mode (plus double click for strobe) FET CC driver without PWM for the low and medium modes.
It fits easily and works like a charm.
Should work longer on full output with a XP-L HI because of the lower voltage drop (compared to 7135 drivers).

Good advise!
I got 2 sheets from my old laptop screen.
One is like 5° diffusion, the other is like 30° (both are my guesstimates).
The trick is to glue it on the back of the lens with a thin layer of (for example) Kafuter UV curing glass glue.
Glueing it eliminates the losses you get when the light travels from diffuser sheet to air to lens, because the refraction index of the glue is similar to the glass and / or the sheet.

That’s good advice. However, I didn’t want something permanent just yet, so I just press it against the glass and use some tape to hold it in place. Yes, it likely does leave an air gap which decreases efficiency, but it still gives pretty-good results overall.

Yeah, of course first try if you like it.
I have 3 lights i did with the 5° stuff, and i liked it enough to do it permanently with Kafuter glass glue.
The glue is also very handy for fixing a TIR optic in a bezel by the way.