DB Custom, i think we don’t have intention to change your definition of WW vs NW.
But you are in BLF GT thread, and right now we have a GT model that is using NW XHP35 HI.
When we perform test on a DUT, we label it correctly to avoid confusion.
Your post labeling GT with WW XHP35 HI as stock light might confuse people who jump into it without knowing you don’t really follow standard definition CREE and other manufacturer adopted for their LED.
No one has said NW is pure white. Being not pure white doesn’t mean we should call NW a WW. They are steps from cool to neutral to warm.
CW or WW are not pure white too.
Sure you have very advance DSLR there. In different lighting environment, it is not easy to get pure white from camera without a white balance card. Maybe Canon has improved so much that its auto white balance is very good nowadays.
I have just noticed an issue with one of my gt’s battery carriers. It appears that two of the four upper recessed contacts are not connecting (or at most sparsely) to my batteries button top. I have 8 identical Samsung 30q button tops purchased from mountain electronics. All of the contacts in one carrier and half of the other one makes good contact. It seems the two button top with issues stop about the distance of the width of two human hairs. I only noticed by shining a flashlight behind the contacts and seeing light pass through two of them. The only reason I checked is because I took one carrier out to charge the cells and reinstalled the empty carrier to run off of four cells only. I couldn’t get the light to come on. Has anyone else had similar issues? It may be that the 30q buttons don’t protrude enough. No big deal, I fixed it with magnets.
It is the low height of the button tops.
I was worried about the 35E when I saw them. They just barely make contact condidering how much (little) button top is proud of the insulating washer & clear re-wrap.
Another way to look at the color temp is like 0 degree centigrade is the freezing point of water, it also just happens to be the melting point as well. Since 4000k is the dividing point between neutral and warm white, I see no issue in naming it warm. 3999 is warm white while 4000 k is neutral white, but there is no way I can tell the difference between them. Just my thoughts and ramblings. Cheers!
Everyone should check for this when they first install their batteries. All these button top pieces are added on by different companies, so there is not always consistency.
I think you have the small diameter button tops.
The button top gap:
In your case, we’re the button tops different heights or were the carrier gaps different heights?
I’ve got wide button tops (raised flat tops from Banggood) in my 30Q and they fit pretty well.
Maybe he accidentally left auto white balance on, or his camera didn’t fully shut it off.
The camera is compensating for the cooler white beam by making the image in general warmer in the first pic and then making the image cooler in the second pic to compensate for the warmer GT temperature.
The light on the house is obviously constant and the same in real life, it’s just the colours are slightly different in the two pics.
The point of that comparison was not really how cold or warm one is compared to the other, but rather how bright it seems.
This is true. It is a sliding scale.
There is nothing that says it must be neutral if it is 4000 and it must be warm if it is 3999.
I am sure everyone here agrees that 4000k is extremely warm for an LED flashlight.
5000-5700k is more neutral, neither yellow nor blue.
Of course the different proportions of cone cells in people’s eyes make the definition very unclear as well.
