DoNkEyConN wrote:

FmC wrote:

Driver is probably ok.

… check around the + wire joins & spring.

fingers crossed! do you think that battery is still ok?

I have had the same thing happen before. Unless you had the short going for some time , the driver and cell both should be OK. You may have lost a little bit of life off the cell by raising the Internal resistance slightly if anything.

If you haven’t already tested it ,you can get a more controlled result if you have a short jumper wire and just hold it against the end of the tube and the negative end of the cell and then have someone hit the side switch to see if everything is working OK before you put the tailcap on the light. This way if the light does still have a short or anything you can break the connection much quicker than trying to get the tailcap back off.

I would say the battery should be OK if its not getting hot shorting too long, the weak link is the spring and switch

2 26650 Keeppower High Drain cells shorted you look likely at up to 100 amps no wonder spring and switch quit

Those batteries have IR of like 20mOhms, maybe another 30-40mOhms on wires and spring bypass

so we got like 8V on 60mOhms

if the original DTP board does not fit the size of the new you always can drill a hole in the shelf and simply twist one of those self cutting screws in it that are often used in plastic cases if you got no thread cutters

I had the rotating star also a few times, cutting in the wires, never turned out good melting some stuff

You can check the driver if the LED- pad has a very low resistance to ground ring the short created that voltage spike and blew the AMCs, but this usually happens only if the driver had the gate of the AMCs activated

DoNkEyConN wrote:

I also found the KD board doesn’t meet the L6 screw holes and wire holes….. Frustrating to say the least!

Mike C wrote:

khas wrote:

The Khatod optics give a much tighter beam profile, but it’s still very floody.

Nice lights you got there. Got a link to the optics?

ZozzV6 wrote:

DoNkEyConN wrote:

I also found the KD board doesn’t meet the L6 screw holes and wire holes….. Frustrating to say the least!

How it cutted the wire? Did you use screws to secure MCPCB? It should not spin. I noticed the hole misalignment on KD stars too and I always grind the MCPCB wire cutouts bigger to fit like this: !{width:60%}http://img1.indafoto.hu/3/9/134029_e227dae7eadb61c0adb17748b381f0a8/2560...!

Ah i may do this to my star.

i soldered the wires to MCPCB then to fit the screws in i had to turn the MCPCB, im guessing thats when they cut. kicking myself now

Now that I showed my led I show the complete build. I made it yesterday. It draws 17.6A and puts out 7800 lumens. I’m still waiting for SMO reflector.


I tried to make the button light show the Hungarian flag colors (red, white, green) but in dark it only shows the red and green because I can’t put white leds in center.


Moon:

Not moon

That’s Beautiful ZozzV6 and everything I want mine to be. nice build

Thanks! I had the driver half year ago. Just now got the led and the one L6 of the three that I decided to keep.

Wieselflinkpro wrote:

MascaratumB wrote:

How did you get it so clear? Did you polished it, after removing the anodisation?

I have removed the anodisation similar on my short tube of the BLF A6, but its not clear like polished aluminium.

I used caustic soda in cold water to remove the anodizing

Here are the links to a previous experience that reports the overall process:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1206054#comment-1206054

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1206083#comment-1206083

Today, after that I used a dremmel -like tool with a metal “brush disc” to make it more shinny!
And…this may sound strange, but not having something “good” to polish it, I used tooth paste and a tooth brush to clean it after using the dremmel disc Not bad, but not the best method, for sure

BLF GT Modified…….De-domed E4 XHP35A-00-0000-0D00E40E1 That I purchased from here.. https://www.ledsupply.com/leds/cree-xlamp-xhp35-high-density I bought the triple and de-domed all three.

Boosted the driver with a R075 for 3.01amps at the emitter. De tuned with 4.5’‘ long Tinergy 24awg leads I reduced the current pull to 2.76-2.78amps at the emitter, where my Light Meter stayed steady. (Ghetto Tuned)

I marked the leads at what I thought were 1/2’‘ lines, but they were 1’‘ lines, and dropped the driver, unsolder the leads, snipped (a 1/2” at at time then a 1/4’‘ when I got closer) then soldered the leads to test,, till I got the desired pull (current increase) from the driver, and the light meter didn’t increase, Never upsetting the reflector/head set-up.

Played with a 12v XHP70 while I was at it…

Does it throw better than XHP35 HI E2?

Agro wrote:

Does it throw better than XHP35 HI E2?

And now the E4 is boosted, YEP! Possibly more LUX gain when I shave the centering ring bar down, I opened up the holes in the bar and mcpcb slightly to allow more float, kept the mcpcb screws slightly loose, the spot didn’t look right after the re-flow, it needed better centering, loosened the head and tightened it a few times, floated it in, the spot looks great now crisper! It’s a Massive reflector, so any misalignment your going to see it, so is the meter!

You’ll see when you get yours and start messing with it…

Dropped a TA driver from Lexel into my MF01 today. Now I have no problems with the light. The UI is amazing I wish more lights came with such intuitive firmware that makes sense, but maybe it will happen now that Emisar and the BLF Q8 are out there. The LEDs are being driven as they should be and the light becomes too hot to touch at 30 seconds then holds heat for at least 4 minutes. With my approximating shoe box I’m reading around 15,000 lumens. That makes it twice as bright as my Q8 after bypasses and TLC.

BLF GT XHP70.2 Used the SD75 6volt XHP70 MCPCB and 2xSD75 (2S2P 8.4v) battery carriers in series, had to modify slightly to make the 2S (-) connection on the carriers, spring bypass’s. Running a Modified 30mm Hyperion FETDD (https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bsc009ne2ls5atma1/infineon-technologie...) Simple 5 modes, 18awg leads 20+ amps at the emitter depending on batteries. seen as high as 21.7amps VTC5A’s but running 8×30Q’s 20.2amps.

So far I have run these emitters thru the GT, and I’m not happy with them…the 5700k isn’t too bad, but I have 3 other emitter I’m going to try out,see if they work/look better…..the XHP70B01D0BP240E to me looks like the exact tint that the Stock BLF GT XHP35HI NW 4000k looks like, if your into that flavor?

https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/cree-inc/xhp70b-01-0000-0d0hm440g?q...

https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/cree-inc/xhp70b-01-0000-0d0bp240e?q...

https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/XHP70B-01-0000-0D0BP20E2/?q...

As a added bonus, the GT’s MCPCB fits the SD75 so I built one more SD75 XHP35 HI using Lexels E2-3A that I had in this GT before I converted it to XHP70.2

Really like the XHP35 HI E4-3A I purchased from Lexel, first time I have ever seen or used this bin/tint in a build, I should of purchased a couple more!!!!

Yes, you should have, then sent me a few.

Nice work Kawi, very elaborate exchanges, still need some beam shots though.

Today I putted in an SST40 in my heat colored L2 and TA OTSM 20mm driver. Still need to replace switch with a reverse clicky and make orange lighted tailcap and make some photos and beamshots from the end result.

And here is my shorty clear S2+ with stainless button with blue lighted tailcap and screw clip.

Nice looking shorty S2+ ZozzV6! What did you use for the lighted switch?

Same things and preparations as in this build
Some correction : You doesn’t need to grind down the steel button lower edge for clearance. it is good for more light coming out.
On the left grinded button with six led board. On the right stock button 2 led board:

For more info see” this topic
“:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37851

Another standard Convoy S2+ mod. This one with an RMM 3 amp Moonlight Special driver and a Nichia 90+ CRI LED, but with a couple noteworthy (read time consuming) enhancements.

First, I trimmed down the driver retainer ring so I could screw down the driver rather than solder it in.

Second, I added a green lighted switch (read the most time consuming part).

I really like the warmer 4,000K tint that the Nichia LED produces. And considering how small the flashlight is, it still throws pretty well.

Here’s a link to my build (which I wrote to try to encourage others to consider modding): Convoy S2+ Mod With A Lighted Switch

Not a flashlight, but I changed my fog lights from 4000K to 2600K

Sorry if it’s offtopic, but it makes me happy and I wanted to share it…

Emisar D4, RGB + White:

The 5 channel full ramping driver (FET+1 for white, red+green+blue) with 2 additional resistors for ultra low white moonlight and red indicator light, color channels pretty overdriven for about 1.5 Amps at each color XP-E2 (NOT recommended though):

Very nice beam:

Even nicer rosy beam with all LEDs on max current, about 1500 lumen (white LED is XP-G2):

Wonderful! That is a cool driver.

I had made a similar light two years ago with the DrJones RGBW driver, a Dsche quad board with some cuts, and a re-build Solarstorm SC02 (and it is still one of my favourites!), but the D4 makes it way easier.

Thanks, it were your posts about the color driver with D882 which made me build this driver. I’m using this light as EDC for about 3 weeks now and it’s the best EDC I ever had.

Thats one amazing clever mod Flashy Mike. Well done.

My adventures with that driver felt quite lonely, I do not think after me anyone has ever tried to use it like that. But i’m glad it inspired at least you

Way cool, great out-of-the-box thinking guys, well done!

Very nice

Flashy Mike wrote:

Emisar D4, RGB + White:

That’s interesting… What is the driver? How does it do 1.5A per color instead of 350mA? Do the chips get hot burning off the wide voltage gap for color LEDs? How low can the color ramps go? What is the firmware and interface like?

This reminds me I should probably finish a few more details on my RGBA firmware. It’s not intended for flashlight use though; it makes patterns which look more appropriate in a lightsaber. The general idea is that the user can make their saber’s illumination pattern(s) unique in much the same manner that one builds new sounds on an analog synthesizer. Except, um, simplified to make it more accessible using a single button.

ToyKeeper wrote:

Flashy Mike wrote:

Emisar D4, RGB + White:

That’s interesting… What is the driver? How does it do 1.5A per color instead of 350mA? Do the chips get hot burning off the wide voltage gap for color LEDs? How low can the color ramps go? What is the firmware and interface like?

Driver is my own design, Attiny 841 with FET + 7135 for white channel and 3x D882 transistors, one for each color channel. Got inspired by Djozz’ posts about a simple RGB driver with this transistors which Richard sold a while ago and Kaidomain still sells. Maximum current through color LEDs is controlled by the base resistors, and the D882 indeed get pretty hot since they are seriously overdriven with 1.5 Amps. For ‘standard’ users I would suggest higher base resistor values for lower LED currents. But I’m using the light for about 3 weeks now in this configuration, often fully powered, without any problems.

In addition there are resistors from mcu i/o-ports to both white and red LED for ultralow pwm-less moon (with sleeping mcu e. g.) and red indicator light (using the red LED).

As you recognized the lowest color ramp value would still be pretty bright so I increased the pwm range for the lower ramp part (which lowers the pwm frequency of course), but pwm frequency is switched back to about 16 kHz with higher currents. Color LEDs brightness at lowest ramp value is now similar to lowest 7135 level with white LED. Ramping is completely smooth.

UI is a ramping one, similar to Narsil, with some gimmics and optimized for color cycling.