That reminds me of the stuff that you can buy to fix broken rear-window-defrost traces on car windows. I bought of bottle of that stuff once and used it to fix a cut trace on a video card successfully. I wonder if it's the same stuff? What's the source and what's the cost? I like the idea of using it to adhere to the aluminum pills in cheap flashlights since you can't solder to them...
<Edit> Okay, I see the eBay link now!
The driver-to-pill connection is the killer app for this stuff. I have used the conductive trace pen before, but his appears to be of a much thicker consistency.
Thanks for sharing !
Additional testing for sag related to temperature. Minimal, from 18700lux to 18657 in 20 min. I tought i was gonna see some 25K lux. Distance si a little over one meter by eye. I guess the lens ain't that good and the emitter is a poor Q3 probably. Flashlight body temperature 40C by IR thermometer and my hand agree with that value.
Not entirely convinced heatsinking is that good but the results are quite in line with that claim. I tought Q5's at 1A were hotter. I guess i got accostumed to XM-L's that go really hot and a Q5 does not even qualify as hot nowadays.
At last! My cat finally finds my hobby a little amusing.
Didn't last much time. I was barely able to take a pic. Would not have noticed if it was not for the weird flickering produced by the cat running in front of the flashlight. :)
This stuff looks to have a lot of possibilities. Thanks for pointing it out. :)
That looks like some really useful stuff. Like Chicago said, the driver to pill connection is the killer app for that stuff. If it is strong enough to provide some durability. Good thinking, thanks.
It might be good stuff for button less batteries. I get a little scared putting solder on them.
I have the same stuff from good-helper, and I am not so satisfied with it. The electrical conductivity is too poor, and not a strong glue, too fragile.
I just got the same stuff, same source this week.
FYI, it is very similar to the homebrew mixture I found a year or two ago when searching the web for conductive adhesive.
The guy had done a lot of experimenting and ended up using plastidip (yeah, insulator) and graphite.
This stuff looks to me like clear glue (very similar to clear contact adhesive) and graphite.
The thing is, it is cheaper than I can buy those two things locally and mix them together, so when this runs out I'll probably buy more - well - that's assuming when I do some resistance tests this weekend, it has at least fair conductivity....
Ordered!
It is no magic material. Graphite (fine powdered) witjh some glue added. It has it's own uses however where classic solder fails or it is not really pratical. If you don't go microscopically thin there is almost no chance of poor conductivity. What currnet would sustain is however another thing. It seems it does conduct heat rather well. Graphite aint a bad thermally conductor at all. Would love the strength of the glue would be harder (epoxy?).
But mixing graphite micronized powder with epoxy would get a similar result.
I'll use it to pot drivers.
your drivers will short circuit and it is more expensive than proper potting epoxy
I researched potting recently after failing to pot w/ fujik thermal glue
devcon 2 ton epoxy and alumina is the popular diy mix on cpf, and apparently used professionally by some custom makers
mg chemicals makes some potting epoxies - slightly more expensive than that mix, and by my estimation (based on devcon spec and alumina properties) slightly less thermally conductive
+1
much handier than mixing your own - although they could have done much better w/ the container. I was thinking of getting a syringe, sucking the glue into it and then putting that in a suitably sized sealed, well sealed container (cigar tube?)
+1!!! Do NOT pot your drivers with this!
dthrckt, how did your potting with Fujik fail? I use it all the time with no issues at all.
not really sure - it was a big ol' DX sst-90 driver - it could be that it hadn't fully cured in the middle - maybe it is a little electrically conductive in that state?
it could have been coincidence (it worked before i potted but only for a second or so after I did)
Even if it didn't cause the failure, I figure it isn't worth the effort. I had to apply it in several stages over a number of days (or it wouldn't have cured in the center for weeks, if at all). And since fujik essentially air dries, it doesn't lend itself well to being used in a mold.
I got 9oz of devcon epoxy for $18 delivered and 12oz of 8micron alumina for $15 (which is also a great, very fine, lapping material).
Awesome find, ordered straight away!
Think this conductive glue can be used to connect 18650s for a battery pack?
I'm going to rebuild my laptop 6-battery packs using panasonic ncr, just ordered them and still in shipping.
Rough estimate - current needed for the pack should be around 1.2A - 1.5A.
If this glue would work, I'd definitely prefer it, at least it eliminates potential soldering heat issue for the batteries. The problem is, would it hold the battery tabs well, and would it conducts sufficient current? Any thoughts?
I think you could fix a wire w/ this stuff and then reinforce it w/ epoxy, but you'd have to be very careful reassembling the packs if you just use the glue. if you apply too much at once it takes a very long time to dry.
edit: btw, this stuff works great for connecting driver mode star to ground on 105c drivers I have. last one I just went ahead and assembled the light and after about 10 minutes of use it dried enough to be conductive and went from default to HML operation lol
soldering that gap isn't hard...but why bother...
I'm very confused...
"If you don't go microscopically thin there is almost no chance of poor conductivity" - that means you assume it will have low resistance, since conductivity is the inverse of resistivity.
"What current would sustain is however another thing." - that means you assume it will have high resistance, since the only thing that can impede current is resistance. I=V/R.
Which are you suggesting?
PPtk