What did you mod today?

Way cool, great out-of-the-box thinking guys, well done! :smiley:

Very nice :+1:

Thatā€™s interestingā€¦ What is the driver? How does it do 1.5A per color instead of 350mA? Do the chips get hot burning off the wide voltage gap for color LEDs? How low can the color ramps go? What is the firmware and interface like?

This reminds me I should probably finish a few more details on my RGBA firmware. Itā€™s not intended for flashlight use though; it makes patterns which look more appropriate in a lightsaber. The general idea is that the user can make their saberā€™s illumination pattern(s) unique in much the same manner that one builds new sounds on an analog synthesizer. Except, um, simplified to make it more accessible using a single button.

Driver is my own design, Attiny 841 with FET + 7135 for white channel and 3x D882 transistors, one for each color channel. Got inspired by Djozzā€™ posts about a simple RGB driver with this transistors which Richard sold a while ago and Kaidomain still sells. Maximum current through color LEDs is controlled by the base resistors, and the D882 indeed get pretty hot since they are seriously overdriven with 1.5 Amps. For ā€˜standardā€™ users I would suggest higher base resistor values for lower LED currents. But Iā€™m using the light for about 3 weeks now in this configuration, often fully powered, without any problems.

In addition there are resistors from mcu i/o-ports to both white and red LED for ultralow pwm-less moon (with sleeping mcu e. g.) and red indicator light (using the red LED).

As you recognized the lowest color ramp value would still be pretty bright so I increased the pwm range for the lower ramp part (which lowers the pwm frequency of course), but pwm frequency is switched back to about 16 kHz with higher currents. Color LEDs brightness at lowest ramp value is now similar to lowest 7135 level with white LED. Ramping is completely smooth.

UI is a ramping one, similar to Narsil, with some gimmics and optimized for color cycling.

We all understand and respect that.
But not for too long :stuck_out_tongue:
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Thanks for sharing.

Wow thatā€™s awesome! what driver or mods did you do to get it to pull that many amps?

A collegue of mine yesterday showed up with a golden oldie, an EastwardYJ J06. Brought memories back from my DX-forum days 7 years ago. He got it from a friend, it stopped working and if I could fix it. I asked if it is was ok to pimp it a bit,that was ok, but in that case his friend would get another flashlight and the pimped one would be his. :smiley:

This light is still built like a tank, heavy brass pill and such, silky smooth threads, but it has a huge design flaw: upon closing the head and bezel (those actions are coupled, just like KDā€™s K2 host), the ledboard will rotate and shear the ledwires, it almost costed me a good LG battery when that happened twice before I finally caught what was going on. It was probably why the light failed in the first place because the driver spring was toast when I received the light.

So the mods were:
*bypassing the 0.5 Ohm current limiting resistor on the simple FET-based direct driver (East92-style). High-prettyhigh-strobe is good enough for him and a BLF-A6 driver would already be too complicated.
*replaced the XM-L with a LuxeonV on a 20mm KD DTP board.
*tapped M2 screw holes in the pill to fix the ledboard with two screws
*ream and flatten to size a plastic centerpiece to fit the Luxeon V led and reflector hole.
*bypass the springs

Now the beam is better (the stock light even had no center piece at all), the tint is better (matter of taste), the light is safe, and the output tripled to 1650 lumen @ 30 seconds.

As I noticed with my other Luxeon V builds: this led is rocksteady on output, hardly any temperature sag at all can be observed.

Nice mod djozz. Iā€™ll take two please. :slight_smile:

Modded my Lumintop Tool AA. 4.25A at the tail.

MTN-15DDm FET+1
Sanded down a 16mm copper MCPCB pulled from Astrolux S1
XP-L V6 3D


Changed the emitter in my Emisar D1 to a Luxeon V

I have tried a few Emitters in the D1:

XP-L HI V2 3A, didnā€™t really like the tint

Luminus SST-40 6500K domed and de-domed, de-dedomed had a great beam profile but the tint was to cold

XM-L2 T3 7A3 CRI90, best tint but the output was just too low

XP-L HI U6 5A3, nice tint but not the best output

XP-L HI V2 5D, great tint and output.

47ā€™s PK Paladin ti now with XP-G2 3D emitters and reverse clicky tail switch. 1960lm at startup

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Fixed my Sofirn C8F (old version) today.

Changed dead XP-G3 on aluminium MCPCB with XP-L HI V3 3C on copper DTP MCPCB.
First time I reflowed more than 1 LED on 1 board. :innocent:

I donā€™t have anything good enough to heat mcpcb this size to right temperature, so I had to use electric stove and laser thermometer to get it right. :person_facepalming:




This is just flux marks, I cleaned them later but forgot to take a picture.

Moon

Low
Dust is on outside of glass, didnā€™t see it until nowā€¦

I donā€™t have good enough camera to do beamshots :frowning:

Now this is what the tool AA should be!
Good job!

Reworked the Nitecore NTP10 with a Nichia 219B emitter.

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I ordered a Texas Avenger driver from Lexel.

The driver can be ordered from Lexel in ā€”-> THIS <ā€”- thread.

The stock LED will not give you this high output you will need an XHP70.2 you can purchase them from Kaidomain LINK HERE

You will also need some high drain 26650 Batteries. the Liitokala Black 5000Mah batts are good cells.

Hope this helps

I finally repaired the switch cover of my DQG Tiny 26650 (third gen., with 7 leds).

In order to reflow new leds (3500K 90CRI 219Cā€™s) by heating the complete head with a blowtorch (the ledboard is glued) a few months ago I removed the driver and switch cover but was never been able to pry out the retaining ring of the switch cover, so it remained loose and was not waterproof. Now I finally pried the retaining ring out and properly mounted the switch cover back into place.

Since I was focussing on this light anyway, I did a current measurement on low and did a runtime test. Will34 in his review measured 6mA in low, which on a 5000mAh Liitokala battery should give more than a month runtime.
However, I measured over 100mA (with 3.5 lm output) and indeed it depleted the Liitokala in 3 days. Has anyone else checked the low setting of their DQG 26650?

Regarding this light Iā€™m still thinking of modding the LED board to parallel and using a Fet driver ā€¦

Same here. Just measured about 100 mA, far too much for the few lumens.