Thank you CRX. I guess my search continues. I wonder if I could find a copper pipe fitting that would work as a spacer.
hi
as CRX says (with his measurements) and my use, its fits perfectly and slids over the o-ring. All you need is a copper washer or a paperclip to go inside the tailcap. i used a paperclip as i had one to hand without going to the shops to find a washer
@ jerommel:
Sorry for the late reply. But i Barely have got time to do these little mods for myself these days.
Hope that you will find someone that can make it for you.
The ideas some of you here have are great!
It’s an honor that i can copy them.
I just had to ask.
Wish i had a lathe…
Even with only a chuck on an axle i could do so much more…
Although not being able to do some top mods as CRX, and also not having some tritium vials, I decided to add extra “glow” to my D4 :sunglasses:
Cool :+1:
Just noticed that CRX invited other modders to (t)his thread so I proudly add my little RGBW mod:
RGB + white, new 5 channel ramping driver:
Beam with single LEDs:
All in:
Very nice :+1:
Yeah I was hoping people who modified their D4’s would post here too, good to see everyones ideas.
Green Lantern and HAL 9000:
Got the green D4 yesterday and couldn’t wait to tinker with it.
Changed the driver against my new one and added a green SMD-LED to the MCPCB. It serves as a indicator LED, lit continously when light is off and flashing each 4 seconds when the light is locked. Can be deactivated of course with a few clicks. The right one is my previously presented RGBW D4 (with the red LED as indicator LED).
Green Lantern and HAL 9000 
Now that’s just cool :+1:
Do you happen to take orders? I have no skills whatsoever to even remotely hope doing those mods, don’t even have the tools, but I would be glad to throw money at you for one of those USB-chargers and magnetic tails. Interested in the LED mod in the picture just above too, but it’s not made by the same person, and anyway it might be more difficult to sell unless the full D4 flashlight is sold.
There is some great work on this thread. Thanks to all of you for posting. This has motivated me to make some mods to my light.
Magnetic Tail - I was able to source my magnet for the tail from K&J Magnetics. This magnet is being used in place of the spring and pcb so it contacts the body. The best size and strength for this in my 18350 body light was 7/8 x 1/16 or 22.2mm x 1.5mm. To remove the tail pcb I used my soldering rework heat gun. I found 350F to be the sweet spot and the board popped right out with the glue staying on the board. Quick cleanup of any remaining residue and I super glued the magnet in. I did have to file the body of the light a bit to fit to the new magnet. This was the most time consuming because I didn't want to overshoot and cause a poor contact between the body and the magnet.
Deep Carry Clip - This was more about finding the right one. I used a clip from the Nitecore Store from their parts page. This one is: "Version B for MH10, MH12, MH20, etc." The only thing left to do was thin the arms of the clip to fit the grooves on the light.
Next mods - Researching the ME4056 board to see about an integrated USB charging solution. Thin the arms of the clip some more for a better fit.
Nice :+1:
So I managed to put 3/4 of a Lexel Aux LEDs board in my D4 during NYE.
I guess the beer/red wine/rhum combo costed me the las 1/4 of it but anyway it works 
I like it X3. What driver are you using? I have a Lexel driver with Narsil setting here. Not sure were to put it.
Edit. I need to work on a switch mod that keeps this from coming on in my pocket.
The stock driver and stock firmware are enough for my use so I kept it like that.
OK> How are you driving the aux leds with the stock driver?
Thinking of removing the anodizing from the head of an aluminum D4 and using that with bare titanium body tube, tailcap and bezel. I love the look and feel of the stock titanium-copper D4, but it is a bit heavy for pocket EDC, mostly due to the heavy copper head. Here are some measurements with a Sony VTC6 installed:
Titanium-Copper D4 stock………………………………………………… 173g
D4 aluminum head; titanium bezel, body and tailcap …………… 136g
D4 aluminum head, bezel and tailcap; titanium body tube …… 131g
D4 aluminum stock ………………………………………………………… 116g
I think shiny polished bare aluminum head might look good with bare titanium.
However, not all D4 versions are the same. All of my early D4s do not lego with the titanium body tube. The threads aren’t quite compatible and it won’t screw on.
I have two of the latest version of the D4 (one white and one grey) and these are legoable with the titanium tube. Unfortunately, these more recent models seem to have a different switch. The new switch is more soft-touch without as much click. That’s not a good thing since having a good click is helpful in preventing accidental pocket activation.