Thanks Spud.
Looks like R050 is a sense resistor, one way to mod. I noticed there is little plastic sleeves around the led out wires. There must be a few mm of room behind the driver? If there’s enough room behind the Klarus driver to fit a nanjg or similar driver then (slave master) will work and then we can program what ever modes we want and current. 
Looks like the switch is using two outside legs for mounting and the two inside for the connections. If it is then the stock switch could be used with the original mounting spot. No need to relocate just solder wires to the two inside legs and to the master board. Stripping the original board of coarse.
Im afraid not, a relief has been cut into the shelf for the switch, not a hairs width has been left in this little thing.
I guess the resistor mod maybe it then. Any pointers on how to get the driver out without damage.
other than to go extremely shallow with your chosen tool for removing the plastic driver retaining ring.
other than that, by the numbers. you will have to remove the figure 8 earth tho, wont make it through the hole.
I just got my Ti and it does also flicker on highest mode, did you resolve this?
I’m thinking your flickering problem might be the included battery. I’m running a test on mine at the moment, and the resistance is off the chart on these, in the 285 to 300 range. Try another 16340 unprotected cell and see if it still flickers.
You are correct, after I charged the included battery the light works fine. It was less than half charged when the light flickered. I also tried with a fully charged Olight 650mah and Eagtac 750mah but the light would just turn off after a few seconds. Seems like this light needs a good high drain capable battery to work good.
Mine will only charge up to 3.84v, and has a capacity of 350mAh. Removing the charging circuit reveals that it’s not a 16340 battery. It’s a 16300 with a usb cap on top. There goes Klarus’s “Rechargeable Mi1C” claim… lol
The light is still a really nice light, but even with the usb cap off, it still measures 300ohm resistance. Junk battery
The Olight S1 Mini’s micro-USB battery is the same thing - a 16300 battery with the recharging/protection circuit that brings the length to 34mm. In fact, they might be the exact same battery, just rewrapped.
But yours sounds defective. Mine charges to 4.20V just fine, and has a capacity somewhere north of 600 mAh (didn’t have the patience to do a full test cycle).
Mine must have been defective. Tried it on 3 different chargers, all read approx. 300ohm resistance. It’s in the trash can now.
But, I still love the Mini’s.
interested
Interested
All replied.
How much for the Cu?
And what’s the price for titanium version?
Still not received mine - which is a bit worrying, since it was supposed to have shipped over a month ago, and deliveries from China usually take 2 weeks to get here.
interested
Interested in this if still available