I ordered a Texas Avenger driver from Lexel.
The driver can be ordered from Lexel in —-> THIS <—- thread.
The stock LED will not give you this high output you will need an XHP70.2 you can purchase them from Kaidomain LINK HERE
You will also need some high drain 26650 Batteries. the Liitokala Black 5000Mah batts are good cells.
Hope this helps
I finally repaired the switch cover of my DQG Tiny 26650 (third gen., with 7 leds).
In order to reflow new leds (3500K 90CRI 219C’s) by heating the complete head with a blowtorch (the ledboard is glued) a few months ago I removed the driver and switch cover but was never been able to pry out the retaining ring of the switch cover, so it remained loose and was not waterproof. Now I finally pried the retaining ring out and properly mounted the switch cover back into place.
Since I was focussing on this light anyway, I did a current measurement on low and did a runtime test. Will34 in his review measured 6mA in low, which on a 5000mAh Liitokala battery should give more than a month runtime.
However, I measured over 100mA (with 3.5 lm output) and indeed it depleted the Liitokala in 3 days. Has anyone else checked the low setting of their DQG 26650?
Regarding this light I’m still thinking of modding the LED board to parallel and using a Fet driver …
Same here. Just measured about 100 mA, far too much for the few lumens.
I’m a bit disappointed about it: apart from a nice efficient output a high setting, what is very attractive about a 7-led 26650 non-PWM light is extreme efficiency at the low modes and thus extreme runtime. To discover that my BLF-A6 (12mA at a 4 lumen mode) does a 6 times better job at that being quite a bit smaller and lightweight with a smaller battery is a bummer…
Yeah, that’s strange since it has been measured with low current earlier. Perhaps DQQ used some wrong electronic component later without noticing this or our drivers are damaged. If I recall correctly I tried a resistor mod with this light which I removed later. And I replaced the switch. Will have a closer look at the driver if I find the time.
Finally got the TA driver from Lexel working with my Astrolux S42. It was quite tricky to get everything apart and put the new parts together, but it’s 100% fuctional.
After getting it working, I decided to reflow XP-L HI v3 3c to replace the 219c. Recharging also works…the only thing not working is the power LED which i did not want anyways. Drawing over 1̶3̶A̶ 14.5A with a full VTC6 and 16.8A with VTC5A at the tail with the new setup with Nasil firmware.
Go-Edness that’s nice work.
My S42 is sitting on the desk waiting for arrival of a replacement optic (pins broke early on). I won’t be doing a reflow though the 219C’s are cooler than I’d like but still hi-CRI.
I will also be doing a Lexel driver upgrade to provide a much needed UI improvement, can’t wait.
Any tips on your disassembly re-assembly?
I am also interested in swapping the driver.
Any info will be highly appreciated 
I pushed the driver out from the top…poking thu the lead hole. Then desolder the brass supports and all the wires and put it back together. Lexel helped me with the steps when I had issues. I also disconnected the old MCU to get rid of the breathing mode.
It was my first time upgrading a driver with charging so it was tricky for me. Doing it again shouldn’t take too long lol.
Sounds good. I may leave old MCU intact and live with the Dragon Breath, particularly as this light won’t be for emergency back-up duty.
Thanks, will take any additional questions off thread so as not get off topic.
For comparison, I measured an Emisar D4 with Anduril on some low modes:
- ~0.2 lm: 1.7 mA
- 1.8 lm: 6.2 mA
- 3.5 lm: 11 mA
… and an unmodded BLF A6:
- ~0.4 lm: 2.6 mA
- 9.3 lm: 20 mA
… and a ZL SC52: (14500)
- ~0.1 lm: 2.0 mA
- 2.5 lm: 11 mA
I also tried a BLF Q8 with Anduril. Measurements were nearly identical to the D4.
Looks like 4 lm at 6 mA would be unusually good. It’s not very hard to get power draw under 6 mA though, if less light is needed.
FWIW, I measured dragon breath mode on another light by the same people, and it used about 3 to 5 mA just to light up the button.
My Q8’s button is just as bright and runs at 0.1 mA on high mode (or ~0.03 mA on low mode).
On a 3000mAh cell, that means the runtime for button-glow mode would be about a month in dragon breath mode, versus about 3 to 11 years on a Q8-style lighted e-switch. In case that affects your decision.
For the record, a Manker T01 with 22mm FET+1 driver sporting Anduril is a fun little light.
Thanks! So glad that I disconnected the old MCU!
I changed the switch on my Sofirn SF14 from forward clicky to reverse clicky. Simple procedure, changed the switch board and replaced the rubber tailcap with one that didn’t have the internal notch cut out. Now it’s more to my liking and I don’t have the weird single forward clicky in my collection
better disconnect the old MCU, if you want lighted switch
I have on the new board 2 LED outputs one from the MCU indicator and one permanently on battery voltage, both with resistor pad for the LEDs
lol I need a translator for this…does that mean the new board has light switch for charging indicator?
not really today, but last week i modded my fridge, i hate CW so i putted a 3200k filter on the leds panel
