For comparison, I measured an Emisar D4 with Anduril on some low modes:
… and an unmodded BLF A6:
… and a ZL SC52: (14500)
I also tried a BLF Q8 with Anduril. Measurements were nearly identical to the D4.
Looks like 4 lm at 6 mA would be unusually good. It’s not very hard to get power draw under 6 mA though, if less light is needed.
FWIW, I measured dragon breath mode on another light by the same people, and it used about 3 to 5 mA just to light up the button.
My Q8’s button is just as bright and runs at 0.1 mA on high mode (or ~0.03 mA on low mode).
On a 3000mAh cell, that means the runtime for button-glow mode would be about a month in dragon breath mode, versus about 3 to 11 years on a Q8-style lighted e-switch. In case that affects your decision.
For the record, a Manker T01 with 22mm FET+1 driver sporting Anduril is a fun little light. 
Thanks! So glad that I disconnected the old MCU!
I changed the switch on my Sofirn SF14 from forward clicky to reverse clicky. Simple procedure, changed the switch board and replaced the rubber tailcap with one that didn’t have the internal notch cut out. Now it’s more to my liking and I don’t have the weird single forward clicky in my collection
better disconnect the old MCU, if you want lighted switch
I have on the new board 2 LED outputs one from the MCU indicator and one permanently on battery voltage, both with resistor pad for the LEDs
lol I need a translator for this…does that mean the new board has light switch for charging indicator?
not really today, but last week i modded my fridge, i hate CW so i putted a 3200k filter on the leds panel
not for charging indicator, but for the Narsil MCU LED output and permanent lit LED output
Still not understanding what that means but it sounds like it doesn’t affect much on how I use the light. The only thing I wish is to know when the battery’s fully charged.
triple click on Narsil shows you the battery level in 0.1V steps
Looks much more welcoming
Lexel - I know it will become more evident once I open ’er up and trace the wire paths but if I understand correctly -
(a) for the new Narsil driver board I must disconnect the old MCU regardless and
(b) connect existing switch wires to “S and G” at location SW on the new Board. Will that allow the MCU Indicator to show on the old switch LEDs or light where?
Toykeeper - that low-drain Q8 button options sounds fantastic. If it isn’t already, it should become the norm. I will read up on it and try to see if/where/I can apply it.
Puglife - that’s a dramatic impact. Hope the warm tint doesn’t affect the beer. 
Just some pretty basic stuff
installed an XPL HI V3 and BLF X5/X6 Driver into my clear C8
Then Put the Biscotti driver from My C8 into my Sand Brown S2+
Success
Cheers 
Just finished my special project today
JetBeam E20R running NarsilM + Rechargeable MicroUSB Charging, working perfectly.
It’s a tough fight (lots of swearing involved) 
The bezel is glued tight with blue stuff, got it off with a lot of heat from my butane torch, and bicycle inner tube for grip.
Sorry, no photos of the build process.
Dedomed XP-G2, 800lm, 24kcd with fully charged efest purple 18350.
Nice mod bwings. I think the dedomed XPG2 is a great match for smaller flashlights. Good performance with the lower heat output and battery drain suited for smaller lights.
Thanks EasyB, yeah XP-G2 for better run time, was thinking about dedoming the SST-40 from E20R, it comes with Copper DTP though.
Great mod bwings, I wish I could do that. I have an E40R that I really like, just the operation is horrible. I have changed the led (to XM-L2 3000K 90CRI) but the UI is stopping me from using it.
Neat little JetBeam, bet it’s really a great little EDC now after all that. Well done!
What’s the UI like ?