Hate alkaleaks at this point, got a bunch of LFP cells instead which I’m using.
First thing I noticed is that LFP (3.2V) levels are equivalent to alkaleaks (1.5V), not Li-ion (3.7V+). Odd. No idea why. Thought the higher voltage would give me the higher levels per mode. Both sets levels look identical, even after a few times flipping back’n’forth. I might be wrong, though, but to me, turbo(alkaleak) = turbo(LFP).
Now, there’s nothing scientific I’m doing, no lumenometer, nothing, just white-ceiling tests for both cells.
Forgot about damned strobe. Thought it didn’t have any, but yeah, mine can get to it in 3 clicks.
Lockout/Unlock can be 4 clicks or sometimes 5 (random). Doesn’t bug me.
Yeah, would prefer not so high a jump between firefly and low, but it doesn’t bug me… yet. For looking up-close, it’s absolutely perfect, but for, say, checking a clock on the far wall, it might be too dim, and low will definitely be too bright. My SF31W and TK4A have a perfect clock-on-wall moonlight level. Nice and low without being too low. But this is true firefly mode, not even moonlight, so is quite nice for just looking down to see where your slippers are.
Yeah, nice beam, not too fried-eggy at all, just a bit of a yellow corona around the hotspot.
Still, rather nice for an AA-based light, overall! Think I’ll put this in rotation…
Amazon had a package deal the last week of December where I picked up this light, a Sofirn SF31, 18650 and USB charger for $16 but that deal has passed. Always good to look at the bottom of the main description for offers like that. I almost missed it.
I received from AE the blue SP10B a couple days ago - the black was out of stock.
Very nice AA/14500 light with side switch for the price! Very bright too. From what i can measure off a ceiling bounce, it is a tad brighter then UT01 and Mi7 and it is noticeable in real use. I also like the beam.
The only annoyance is the UI and mode spacing. Although i do have a number of lights with the ‘long press’ for on/off, i still don’t like it much. I can get used to it if i use one of those lights on a regular basis but each time i pick one at random i struggle to turn it on and off.
The other issue is the gap between what amounts to a very low moon mode and a rather bright mid mode. There should be a ‘regular’ low mode in between.
Overall a very good value 14500 light.
Well done Sofirn! :+1:
I”m guessing the black SP10B run out of stock during the flash sale. I think their SP10A which comes in black is now being sold as the black SP10B. They updated the SP10A with the newer driver so it is practically the same light.
I guess now the SP10A is now the black version an the SP10B the blue and red versions! Both having the “old” black SP10B driver (ML-L-M >> H / >>> Strobe / >>>> Lockout).
Hey, did anyone ever measure parasitic drain in the A and/or B?
Reason I’m asking is that I was carrying both, one with an eneloop and the other with an LFP cell, and both were dead dead dead after 1 day. The LFP might be suspect, as my LK202 “charged” it in minutes right out of the wrap, and after dead also “charged” it in just a few minutes. Even resetting it and forcing the LK to think it’s a Li-ion cell (3.7V vs 3.2V), it just charged a minute or so more. Odd.
Still, to kill an eneloop which is now charging pretty much from 0, seems really odd. Don’t think both got accidentally turned on in my bag and thus ran down completely, but…
I’m going to run both through some alkaleaks and hope they don’t do what they’re (in)famous for. After that, some more tests (if I can find where I put my meter last… :confounded: ).
Didn’t measure, as I don’t have means to do so! But mine (SP10B) is “stopped” with a Sofirn 14500 inside (with some use), all threads tightened up and it works fine! No major drain, at least not like yours!
Lightbringer, I don’t know if that may have something to do with this case, but at least the SP10B manual doesn’t refer any “compatibility” with Ni-MH or LiFePO cells. Not sure if that is just a way to protect those types of cells once it only has Low Voltage Protection for Li-Ion cells.
DMM’s reading a rather bouncy 20µA-40µA, and that’s it. Not likely to drain anything so fast. eneloop took a long while to charge from essentially 0, so maybe the switch just got bumped on in my bag/pocket (forgot which I was carrying where). Both LFPs I’m playing with charged to and are holding 3.35V, and after intentionally burning ’em down maybe 5min on H in both lights (A and B).
Think actual TCLO is safest, ’though the B has its soft LO.
Do have to say, even though I liked the A quite a bit, the B kinda blows it away. Doubleclick to turbo, real firefly mode, soft LO, and a much nicer tint (nowhere near as yellow-green).
Hum, don’t know, but that may have happened, switching it on inside the pocket!
I know this may sound weird, but perhaps you need to try one more time with the exact same sets, to check if there was a anomalous drain or to see if there was an accidental turn ON.
Normally these side switch lights, I loose the head a bit or the tail just to avoid accidental turn ON in the pockets, a slight loose, enough to turn with one hand when I want to turn it ON again. I do that with the Manker E11, Olight S1R, Emisar D4, Sofirn SP10B.
In that way, tailclickies are better
But I do agree, the SP10B is :heart_eyes: !
I can’t see any “greenish” tint on mine, it has beautiful NW tint