How do you get 10% off?
There was a 10% off coupon earlier in this thread, but I just tried it and it doesn’t look valid anymore….unless there’s a new one somewhere?
This is an official thread of Sofirn where Tracy posts some codes, for the Amazon Store! Please check the 1st post 
I don’t know if they are still active or if the prices is lower than the one in AliExpress, but worths a try
Amazon had a package deal the last week of December where I picked up this light, a Sofirn SF31, 18650 and USB charger for $16 but that deal has passed. Always good to look at the bottom of the main description for offers like that. I almost missed it.
Yes, all those SP10B codes have expired on 12/31/17, as per that 1st post. 
That is why I was asking if maybe there was a new one that I had missed.
Ohhh, sorry :person_facepalming:
I really need to double-check the information :person_facepalming:
Hum, I guess you can always ask Tracy for a coupon for those Maybe on that thread it will be better, once it is their “official” thread
Aaah, fooey.
I received from AE the blue SP10B a couple days ago - the black was out of stock.
Very nice AA/14500 light with side switch for the price! Very bright too. From what i can measure off a ceiling bounce, it is a tad brighter then UT01 and Mi7 and it is noticeable in real use. I also like the beam.
The only annoyance is the UI and mode spacing. Although i do have a number of lights with the ‘long press’ for on/off, i still don’t like it much. I can get used to it if i use one of those lights on a regular basis but each time i pick one at random i struggle to turn it on and off.
The other issue is the gap between what amounts to a very low moon mode and a rather bright mid mode. There should be a ‘regular’ low mode in between.
Overall a very good value 14500 light.
Well done Sofirn! :+1:
I”m guessing the black SP10B run out of stock during the flash sale. I think their SP10A which comes in black is now being sold as the black SP10B. They updated the SP10A with the newer driver so it is practically the same light.
I guess now the SP10A is now the black version an the SP10B the blue and red versions! Both having the “old” black SP10B driver (ML-L-M >> H / >>> Strobe / >>>> Lockout).
Hey, did anyone ever measure parasitic drain in the A and/or B?
Reason I’m asking is that I was carrying both, one with an eneloop and the other with an LFP cell, and both were dead dead dead after 1 day. The LFP might be suspect, as my LK202 “charged” it in minutes right out of the wrap, and after dead also “charged” it in just a few minutes. Even resetting it and forcing the LK to think it’s a Li-ion cell (3.7V vs 3.2V), it just charged a minute or so more. Odd.
Still, to kill an eneloop which is now charging pretty much from 0, seems really odd. Don’t think both got accidentally turned on in my bag and thus ran down completely, but…
I’m going to run both through some alkaleaks and hope they don’t do what they’re (in)famous for. After that, some more tests (if I can find where I put my meter last… :confounded: ).
Didn’t measure, as I don’t have means to do so! But mine (SP10B) is “stopped” with a Sofirn 14500 inside (with some use), all threads tightened up and it works fine! No major drain, at least not like yours!
Lightbringer, I don’t know if that may have something to do with this case, but at least the SP10B manual doesn’t refer any “compatibility” with Ni-MH or LiFePO cells. Not sure if that is just a way to protect those types of cells once it only has Low Voltage Protection for Li-Ion cells.
Hope your lights are not “faulty” 
Wellp, my eneloop is still charging, so it definitely was drained dry.
The LFP “charged” quickly and is holding 3.4V or so.
It’d defeat the purpose to do a TCLO if I want to see how it’d hold up in practice, but it’d stop an accidental turn-on in a bag or pocket.
Only thing I can think of is that an LFP under load might look like a depleted Li-ion. But 3.2V? Awfully high value to lock-out…
No idea…
DMM’s reading a rather bouncy 20µA-40µA, and that’s it. Not likely to drain anything so fast. eneloop took a long while to charge from essentially 0, so maybe the switch just got bumped on in my bag/pocket (forgot which I was carrying where). Both LFPs I’m playing with charged to and are holding 3.35V, and after intentionally burning ’em down maybe 5min on H in both lights (A and B).
Think actual TCLO is safest, ’though the B has its soft LO.
Will just keep playing with ’em…
Do have to say, even though I liked the A quite a bit, the B kinda blows it away. Doubleclick to turbo, real firefly mode, soft LO, and a much nicer tint (nowhere near as yellow-green).
Hum, don’t know, but that may have happened, switching it on inside the pocket!
I know this may sound weird, but perhaps you need to try one more time with the exact same sets, to check if there was a anomalous drain or to see if there was an accidental turn ON.
Normally these side switch lights, I loose the head a bit or the tail just to avoid accidental turn ON in the pockets, a slight loose, enough to turn with one hand when I want to turn it ON again. I do that with the Manker E11, Olight S1R, Emisar D4, Sofirn SP10B.
In that way, tailclickies are better 
But I do agree, the SP10B is :heart_eyes: !
I can’t see any “greenish” tint on mine, it has beautiful NW tint
That’s my guess.
I was going to leave them home, but not LOed, to see if there was any kind of drain. But with both the A and B only sipping ~30µA, I doubt they’re to blame. Probably just turned on accidentally, and drained ’em dry.
And people piss’n’moan about twisties…
Not the B, which is a nice non-green 5500K-6000K if I had to guess. The A, though, is kinda horribly yellow-green. Doesn’t seem like it at first, but when I got 2 of ’em side-by-side shining on the ceiling… gah!
I’d say the A is about on par with the F1 and Jet-I/-II as far as greeniness.
The brightness of my B is not far behind my S2+ with a 14500 . Mine holds charge in pocket but I glued a washer around the button . What is going on now with the Black A , red and blue B thing going on ? Is the A the same as the B now ?
Mine’s a first-edition A, but the latest As seem to have the same UI as the Bs, from what I heard. I don’t have any, so can’t attest to that personally.
I don’t have twisties, but that is a different situation A twisty may turn ON on the pocket more easily than a side switch light with loosen threads 
Unless you twist the twisty so much that you have to tight it up like half the threads’ length
The tint of the SP10B is better than both the SF14 and the SP10A (“older” model). I wouldn’t make that comparison as mine was more NW that CW. But it had a slight of green for sure!!
What seems to be happening is that the SP10Bs are the blue and red versions of the “new” SP10A, that has now the same UI as the former black/red/blue SP10B.
So, the SP10A seems to no longer have the 3 + 1 modes. Instead it has 3 + Turbo + lockout
In other words, SP10A and SP10B, being sold currently, are the same light with different host colour.