What did you mod today?

The idea of the UI is not bad, just the timing. What really makes it intolerable is looooooooooooooooooong press for switch-on.

if you do not disconnect old MCU you have the breathing mode and charge indicator, but a massive parasitig drain
you can use L on new board to use Indicator Output and LS for permanently lit side switch

Some work to do today
Astrolux MF01, MF02, BLF Q8 2S and Thrunite TN42 drivers with Narsil

smaller TA ones for Skilhunt H03, S42, L6 with Narsil
17mm TA for normal C8
22mm TA for UF Mod

^ Well done, that looks like a lot of work! Sorry for not following your driver thread, but do you offer a 17mm FET+7135-based Narsil driver with connections for a remote e-switch? (I like to use it for the Sofirn C8 triple host)

What fabricator are you using for the red boards?

Green Lantern and HAL 9000:

Got the green D4 yesterday and couldn’t wait to tinker with it.
Changed the driver against my new one and added a green SMD-LED to the MCPCB. It serves as a indicator LED, lit continously when light is off and flashing each 4 seconds when the light is locked. Can be deactivated of course with a few clicks. The right one is my previously presented RGBW D4 (with the red LED as indicator LED).

I love my Manker T01, but so boring! I’ll trade you for yours, then u can mod mine anyway you like :slight_smile:

Added an ultra low and pwm free moon mode to my D4 driver firmware which is accessible through normal ramping. MCU is actually sleeping in this mode. Brightness can be configured by resistor change on spring side of the driver board (no need to take the driver out).
Current consumption 115 uA in my actual configuration with 15k resistor. Should run a couple of years with one cell.

thre remote e-switch is to handle high currents of modern DD lights, not conncted to the driver, so Bistro with 1 Mode is best way for driver

Also modded today the light of patmurris

Added also some GITD tape


I used Seeed for the boards but not very happy with it
doubled sided drivers make problems
I have on many drivers with solder mask on the rim of traces not fully closed and AMCs shorting with their ground fin, probably because they need 0.4mm clearance between pads before solder mask is applied for sure

Same with 0.35mm viases they are many times completely uncovered inside, 0.75mm viases have always no solder mask inside

I dont know whitch what they read Gerber files but they are uncapable of reading ground rings drawn as circle, sometimes swap pads by 45° which can lead to shorts

That’s pretty slick. Can you explain a bit more how you did it? Like is that a third channel or what?

… so envious of you ‘creative modders’. I have so many lights that I would love to have modded, mostly with Narsil. Can someone start a Flashlight Rag? Articles. Ads. Mod Services, etc. I’ll be the 1st to subscribe. Now we just need a name for the publication?

I’m using the Attiny841 in my driver which has plenty of i/o pins.

This driver is actually a 7 channel driver:
7135 + FET to white LED (s) = 2 channels, both with PWM,
one D882 transistor to each color LED = 3 channels, all with PWM,
2 resistors, each from a dedicated i/o port to cathode of white LED and 1st color LED = 2 channels.

And there are still unused i/o pins with connector pads available, could even make this driver a 10 channel driver (for instance I could connect more pins with resistors to the white LEDs which allows different levels of pwm free low moon).

In my D4 with white LEDs only 4 channels are used: 7135 + FET, 1 resistor channel to the white LEDs and the other resistor channel is misused for the green indicator LED under the optic (see my earlier post).

For the ultra low moon mode I activate the i/o port connected to the white LED (without pwm) and make the mcu sleep. It was a bit tricky to integrate this function into normal ramping but it’s working pretty well now.

Usage is easy - I just ramp down until the light blinks (when it reaches the lowest “normal” pwm level) and hold the momentary for half a second more.

Changed the Sofirn SF10B emitter to XP-L2…nothing else. The stock XP-G2 pulls 1.6A at the tail. New setup pulls 2.4A.

Thanks Flashy Mike for the explanation. That’s a very capable driver. Does it have a voltage divider for battery voltage sensing?

I like the little Sofirn SF10B, very neat miniature of the larger SP32A… I had put an XP-L2 in mine then went back and sliced it, diced the phosphor off the sides, even more enjoyable now. :smiley:

Got my Sofirn C8F side switch hosts in today, built one up with XP-L2 V6 5000K emitters and an 17mm MTNFET driver built from scratch with a VishayDale SIR404DP. Used 22 ga wires to the MCPCB but 20ga spring bypasses. It pulls over 12A at the tail and makes 4116 lumens, pretty sweet! :slight_smile:

Leatherman Tread Flashlight Bit :smiley:

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That is ridiculously cool!!

Nice work.

So, how do you light it on ?

If you see the small check out of the back corner of the unit, well there is a corresponding piece of copper press fitted into the leatherman segment so you push the LED unit back into the body until it makes contact and push it from the back to turn it off, like a slide switch. It’s held in by friction. Doesn’t look too bright in the pictures as I need new cells.

CRX - this is getting out of hand…. :smiley:

:+1: :beer: