made a NarsilM design for it
Niwalker BK-FA30S
added 3 pads for the auxillary switches,
one providing 5V for the Turbo switch
one sets multiples the current by 10 or goes to Turbo
the other divides the current by 10
Nice driver! Will you make it? I would like one! 
I have ordered 3 prototype boards from Oshpark
I got yesterday the MF02 ones that have a little design error but nothing dramatically, same on the Niwalker Prototype
I got here the TN42 driver that fits the Niwalker light, but they do not support the auxillary switches
I need to test them but I am pretty sure they will work, so I got 2 boards left
One of the two to me. PM sent…
I changed the LED to one of my XHP35-E2-3C
the throw did almost not increase so I assume they use a CW E2 or very good D4 flux bin
the bezel is not glued, not sure if this will be on production lights as well, as they wrote on my suggestion to thermal epoxy the head and middle piece together that in Production it will be glued on that spot
The reflector is deep
nice square cur threads on bezel
Thermal paste is an uniform thin layer with little air pockets, that pattern comes from removing the board and prooves thats a thin layer
Back of the MCPCB is perfectly flat
Also the heads shelf is pretty flat with a good surface finish looks roughter than it is
reflowing NW LED
using thermal epoxy to bond head and middle for better heat transfer
What epoxy improves your thermal transfer over that of a good paste?
I see light on the end of the tunnel, of course not so good that actual BL frmwares are single switch, but I can use em to momentary stup up or step down current manipulating the MCU output channels
The my Niwalker is on the way… I hope this will be perfect with the your driver!
I had today the opportunity to compare the NW GT driver modded Niwalker with a CW GT driver modded Thrunite TN42
all pictures 50m from target
a bit overexposed on the first shot
reduced ISO on camera for control shot
zoomed iout both lights
TN42 CW
I’ve received the this flashlight today.
I like the handling of 3 programmable buttons and the lamp brightness!
I compared this with the TN42.
My lux meter is not accurate, but it’s good for comparison.
I measured lux from 9.2 meters:
Not moded TN42: 612100cd
Not moded BK-FA30S: 559150cd
I can’t see this difference with my eye, and the usability with 3 buttons is very good!
What are the annoying red/green LEDs on the battery tube for?
Not necessarily a question!!
The light has the same electronics as the reviewed by Lexel,or better with the suggested changes?
I haven’t changed the lamps yet. The lamps are in the factory state.
I used vtc6 batteries for comparison.
I had mooded the driver but it seemed the buck controller did not like new FET and lost current after a few hours use, so I put in a TN42 driver with some mechanical modification
I received yesterday first 3 prototype boards of the 3 switch driver and will test it asap
Need to finish a review first that got not enough attention last 10 days
Awesome review but aren’t you temping fate by not only using different batteries but different battery chemistries? 
The picture is only to show both protected and unprotected fit the carrier
In fact that Klarus protected use the same Samsung cell and has almost no resistance added by the PCB so it would not make problems
I received 2 BK-FA30S the other day and noticed something looked odd with the beam profile, it took a minute but realized that the flat piece that I suppose is a centering type ring was not over the emitter and was covering half the emitter so I took the light apart between the switch section and the head and first thing I noticed besides that ring not being over the emitter was that the MCPCB says Cree XPL which I think is the same size mcpcb as used in the BK-FA01S which is XPL Hi,
Lexel did you notice this? And how do I tell the difference between a XPL HI and XHP35 emitter? Seems these boards should have said XHP on them.
The switches are still messed up as well and also wondering if you ever designed a new driver for these ??
Something isn’t right with these lights, not overly impressed really but also just got a couple BLF GT’s I’ve been playing with so probably spoiled a bit.
Its likely cost wise that there is written XPL, they probably let made a couple hundred boards for a previous light and use the same board in the new light
price is 18.5€
shipping 3.2€
optional tracking with 25€ insurance 2.5€
I have a driver for this light
The 2 auxillary switches are used as momentary
4 options you can choose 2 of:
- Light off
- 10% of current ramp level, at very low brightness turns off the light
- 10 times of current ramp level capped at 2.5A
- turbo this works also when the light is off and cant be electronically locked out
the difference between light off and 10% is just one resistor value, the value which it reduces the current can be adjusted
Hello,
I received my Niwalker vostro yesterday and I was excited for it. The reflector has one or two specs of dust in it, no big deal. I charged my four 18650 batteries and inserted into the battery carrier. Assemble it and was getting exited to turn it on. I pressed the main switch and nothing. I kept pressing all the switches and nothing. I noticed today in the morning when I tried to turn it on again, I get a faint light pulse from the XHP35 hi but turns off quickly. The main light switch doesn’t turn on either. The red/green led turns om perfectly and that’s the only thing that works. Anyone have a clue on what I can do to get it to work? Or has ot become a nice looking paper weight? I bought it from group buy at a cheap price, so I cannot really be bummed out on losing oit on 110 AUD.
Update,
It was the batteries that the vostro didn’t like and it’s working perfectly fine. I had some protected panasonic batteries and replaced them with some Samsung unprotected cells and it works!