What did you mod today?

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Lexel
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Edness wrote:
Lexel wrote:
Edness wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
pc_light wrote:
I may leave old MCU intact and live with the Dragon Breath, …

FWIW, I measured dragon breath mode on another light by the same people, and it used about 3 to 5 mA just to light up the button.

My Q8’s button is just as bright and runs at 0.1 mA on high mode (or ~0.03 mA on low mode).

On a 3000mAh cell, that means the runtime for button-glow mode would be about a month in dragon breath mode, versus about 3 to 11 years on a Q8-style lighted e-switch. In case that affects your decision.

Thanks! So glad that I disconnected the old MCU!

better disconnect the old MCU, if you want lighted switch
I have on the new board 2 LED outputs one from the MCU indicator and one permanently on battery voltage, both with resistor pad for the LEDs

lol I need a translator for this…does that mean the new board has light switch for charging indicator?

not for charging indicator, but for the Narsil MCU LED output and permanent lit LED output

Edness
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Still not understanding what that means but it sounds like it doesn’t affect much on how I use the light. The only thing I wish is to know when the battery’s fully charged.

Lexel
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Edness wrote:
Still not understanding what that means but it sounds like it doesn’t affect much on how I use the light. The only thing I wish is to know when the battery’s fully charged.

triple click on Narsil shows you the battery level in 0.1V steps
Mike C
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puglife2 wrote:
not really today, but last week i modded my fridge, i hate CW so i putted a 3200k filter on the leds panel

Looks much more welcoming Smile
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Lexel wrote:
Edness wrote:
Lexel wrote:
better disconnect the old MCU, if you want lighted switch I have on the new board 2 LED outputs one from the MCU indicator and one permanently on battery voltage, both with resistor pad for the LEDs

lol I need a translator for this…does that mean the new board has light switch for charging indicator?

not for charging indicator, but for the Narsil MCU LED output and permanent lit LED output


Lexel – I know it will become more evident once I open ‘er up and trace the wire paths but if I understand correctly –
(a) for the new Narsil driver board I must disconnect the old MCU regardless and
(b) connect existing switch wires to “S and G” at location SW on the new Board. Will that allow the MCU Indicator to show on the old switch LEDs or light where?

Toykeeper – that low-drain Q8 button options sounds fantastic. If it isn’t already, it should become the norm. I will read up on it and try to see if/where/I can apply it.

Puglife – that’s a dramatic impact. Hope the warm tint doesn’t affect the beer. Silly

Seeking the light.

DoNkEyConN
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Just some pretty basic stuff

installed an XPL HI V3 and BLF X5/X6 Driver into my clear C8

Then Put the Biscotti driver from My C8 into my Sand Brown S2+

Success

Cheers Beer Beer

bwings
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Just finished my special project today Smile

JetBeam E20R running NarsilM + Rechargeable MicroUSB Charging, working perfectly.

It’s a tough fight (lots of swearing involved) Big Smile The bezel is glued tight with blue stuff, got it off with a lot of heat from my butane torch, and bicycle inner tube for grip.

Sorry, no photos of the build process.


Dedomed XP-G2, 800lm, 24kcd with fully charged efest purple 18350.

____________________________________________________________________________________

Sorry for my poor English

EasyB
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Nice mod bwings. I think the dedomed XPG2 is a great match for smaller flashlights. Good performance with the lower heat output and battery drain suited for smaller lights.

bwings
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Thanks EasyB, yeah XP-G2 for better run time, was thinking about dedoming the SST-40 from E20R, it comes with Copper DTP though.

____________________________________________________________________________________

Sorry for my poor English

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Great mod bwings, I wish I could do that. I have an E40R that I really like, just the operation is horrible. I have changed the led (to XM-L2 3000K 90CRI) but the UI is stopping me from using it.

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Neat little JetBeam, bet it’s really a great little EDC now after all that. Well done! Smile

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djozz wrote:
Great mod bwings, I wish I could do that. I have an E40R that I really like, just the operation is horrible. I have changed the led (to XM-L2 3000K 90CRI) but the UI is stopping me from using it.

What’s the UI like ?

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djozz
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X3 wrote:
djozz wrote:
Great mod bwings, I wish I could do that. I have an E40R that I really like, just the operation is horrible. I have changed the led (to XM-L2 3000K 90CRI) but the UI is stopping me from using it.

What’s the UI like ?

The idea of the UI is not bad, just the timing. What really makes it intolerable is looooooooooooooooooong press for switch-on.
Lexel
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pc_light wrote:
Lexel wrote:
Edness wrote:
Lexel wrote:
better disconnect the old MCU, if you want lighted switch I have on the new board 2 LED outputs one from the MCU indicator and one permanently on battery voltage, both with resistor pad for the LEDs

lol I need a translator for this…does that mean the new board has light switch for charging indicator?

not for charging indicator, but for the Narsil MCU LED output and permanent lit LED output


Lexel – I know it will become more evident once I open ‘er up and trace the wire paths but if I understand correctly –
(a) for the new Narsil driver board I must disconnect the old MCU regardless and
(b) connect existing switch wires to “S and G” at location SW on the new Board. Will that allow the MCU Indicator to show on the old switch LEDs or light where?

Toykeeper – that low-drain Q8 button options sounds fantastic. If it isn’t already, it should become the norm. I will read up on it and try to see if/where/I can apply it.

Puglife – that’s a dramatic impact. Hope the warm tint doesn’t affect the beer. Silly

if you do not disconnect old MCU you have the breathing mode and charge indicator, but a massive parasitig drain
you can use L on new board to use Indicator Output and LS for permanently lit side switch

Lexel
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Some work to do today
Astrolux MF01, MF02, BLF Q8 2S and Thrunite TN42 drivers with Narsil

smaller TA ones for Skilhunt H03, S42, L6 with Narsil
17mm TA for normal C8
22mm TA for UF Mod

djozz
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^ Well done, that looks like a lot of work! Sorry for not following your driver thread, but do you offer a 17mm FET+7135-based Narsil driver with connections for a remote e-switch? (I like to use it for the Sofirn C8 triple host)

Mike C
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What fabricator are you using for the red boards?

Flashy Mike
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Green Lantern and HAL 9000:

Got the green D4 yesterday and couldn’t wait to tinker with it.
Changed the driver against my new one and added a green SMD-LED to the MCPCB. It serves as a indicator LED, lit continously when light is off and flashing each 4 seconds when the light is locked. Can be deactivated of course with a few clicks. The right one is my previously presented RGBW D4 (with the red LED as indicator LED).

saypat
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DB Custom wrote:
For the record, a Manker T01 with 22mm FET+1 driver sporting Anduril is a fun little light. Smile

I love my Manker T01, but so boring! I’ll trade you for yours, then u can mod mine anyway you like Smile

Flashy Mike
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Added an ultra low and pwm free moon mode to my D4 driver firmware which is accessible through normal ramping. MCU is actually sleeping in this mode. Brightness can be configured by resistor change on spring side of the driver board (no need to take the driver out).
Current consumption 115 uA in my actual configuration with 15k resistor. Should run a couple of years with one cell.

Lexel
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djozz wrote:
^ Well done, that looks like a lot of work! Sorry for not following your driver thread, but do you offer a 17mm FET+7135-based Narsil driver with connections for a remote e-switch? (I like to use it for the Sofirn C8 triple host)

thre remote e-switch is to handle high currents of modern DD lights, not conncted to the driver, so Bistro with 1 Mode is best way for driver

Also modded today the light of patmurris

Added also some GITD tape


I used Seeed for the boards but not very happy with it
doubled sided drivers make problems
I have on many drivers with solder mask on the rim of traces not fully closed and AMCs shorting with their ground fin, probably because they need 0.4mm clearance between pads before solder mask is applied for sure

Same with 0.35mm viases they are many times completely uncovered inside, 0.75mm viases have always no solder mask inside

I dont know whitch what they read Gerber files but they are uncapable of reading ground rings drawn as circle, sometimes swap pads by 45° which can lead to shorts

EasyB
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Flashy Mike wrote:
Added an ultra low and pwm free moon mode to my D4 driver firmware which is accessible through normal ramping. MCU is actually sleeping in this mode. Brightness can be configured by resistor change on spring side of the driver board (no need to take the driver out). Current consumption 115 uA in my actual configuration with 15k resistor. Should run a couple of years with one cell. !{width:50%}http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/emisar-d4-ultra-low-moon.25202/full!

That’s pretty slick. Can you explain a bit more how you did it? Like is that a third channel or what?

saypat
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… so envious of you ‘creative modders’. I have so many lights that I would love to have modded, mostly with Narsil. Can someone start a Flashlight Rag? Articles. Ads. Mod Services, etc. I’ll be the 1st to subscribe. Now we just need a name for the publication?

Flashy Mike
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EasyB wrote:
That’s pretty slick. Can you explain a bit more how you did it? Like is that a third channel or what?
I’m using the Attiny841 in my driver which has plenty of i/o pins.

This driver is actually a 7 channel driver:
7135 + FET to white LED = 2 channels, both with PWM,
one D882 transistor to each color LED = 3 channels, all with PWM,
2 resistors, each from a dedicated i/o port to cathode of white LED and 1st color LED = 2 channels.

And there are still unused i/o pins with connector pads available, could even make this driver a 10 channel driver (for instance I could connect more pins with resistors to the white LEDs which allows different levels of pwm free low moon).

In my D4 with white LEDs only 4 channels are used: 7135 + FET, 1 resistor channel to the white LEDs and the other resistor channel is misused for the green indicator LED under the optic (see my earlier post).

For the ultra low moon mode I activate the i/o port connected to the white LED (without pwm) and make the mcu sleep. It was a bit tricky to integrate this function into normal ramping but it’s working pretty well now.

Usage is easy – I just ramp down until the light blinks (when it reaches the lowest “normal” pwm level) and hold the momentary for half a second more.

Edness
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Changed the Sofirn SF10B emitter to XP-L2…nothing else. The stock XP-G2 pulls 1.6A at the tail. New setup pulls 2.4A.

EasyB
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Thanks Flashy Mike for the explanation. That’s a very capable driver. Does it have a voltage divider for battery voltage sensing?

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I like the little Sofirn SF10B, very neat miniature of the larger SP32A… I had put an XP-L2 in mine then went back and sliced it, diced the phosphor off the sides, even more enjoyable now. Big Smile

Got my Sofirn C8F side switch hosts in today, built one up with XP-L2 V6 5000K emitters and an 17mm MTNFET driver built from scratch with a VishayDale SIR404DP. Used 22 ga wires to the MCPCB but 20ga spring bypasses. It pulls over 12A at the tail and makes 4116 lumens, pretty sweet! Smile

CRX
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Leatherman Tread Flashlight Bit Big Smile

.

DoNkEyConN
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CRX wrote:
Leatherman Tread Flashlight Bit Big Smile

.

That is ridiculously cool!!

Nice work.

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So, how do you light it on ?

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

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