The switch is basically a miniature version of the TN42 switch.
The TN42 switch has no extra movement, just a tight click, and nothing else. The TC20 switch has a bit of pre-travel before it clicks. Pressing against a spring is bound to cause some mushyness. The actual click feels pretty much the same as on TN42. Snappy clicks feel ok.
I might just be overly critical? But the EC50, Zebralight, and Emisar have such great switches, it’s hard to be happy with even the smallest imperfections.
I totally agree on the Emisar switch. I have a D1 and the switch action is really nice. In fact the whole light is superb.
Neutral white (USA Customer)
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Received my TC20 a few days ago, neutral white emitter. I like everything about the light; however, I am not a big fan of the neutral tint as there is some tint shift from the creamy white hot spot to a yellowish corona. If anybody bought the cool white and is looking for the neutral, I would be willing to trade. Otherwise I might sell this light, PM me if you are interested.
Thrunite’s runtime is spot on. I ran it on high, 1800 lumen for 2hrs and 25mins on the dot. Was super hot so wear gloves fellas. Very very happy with this light. The beam pattern is perfect for multi-use. Similar to an S2+ pattern.
Does it drop output on that level?
I’m not 100% happy with the neutral white version I got, so I ordered the cool white. I might end up selling (Continental USA only) the neutral if I like the cool white more. I’ll be in touch. BTW, it’s perfect with the original box and all included accessories.
So is it just the tint shift you dislike? Do you usually get NW in your lights? Also do you know the CCT of these, for NW and/or CW? didn’t see it in Thrunite.com or amazon. I wouldn’t be happy with CW 6000K> and <4500K could be a bit warm for me in a light like this, 4700K - 5500K would suit me best.
Also does double click to turbo work from off?
I love neutral white, but this one has a great hot spot with a yellowish corona and a ever so slightly bluish spill when shinning on a white wall. Maybe I’m being overly picky. Everything else about this flashlight is fantastic. Yes, double click from off gets you to turbo
Thanks for the info. I’ve been noticing the newest leds from cree seem to have those characteristics, I just got an Xp-L2 and it’s tint is exactly as you described.
I agree with what you were saying in an earlier post that it’s mostly when illuminating white walls etc. and not in real use. But right now where we live, too warm, too cool and tint shift “rainbows” are real undesirable outdoors, everything’s white out there!
Still wondering what the CCT is on these.
My Convoy L6 XHP 70 NW has a perfect tint. Maybe the XHP 70.2 is dud?
On my CW version, yes, double click from off goes to turbo
Are these lights glued?
Does the included battery have protection circuit? (I saw a couple reviews said it is) Listing doesn’t say.
The battery is protected
I’m amazed these high output lights don’t require the unprotected hi-drain batteries as L6, Q8 etc.
Two other lights with similar output also come with protected batteries: The Acebeam L30 (4000lm) and the Olight R50 pro seeker (3200lm) .
I assume the protection circuits are around 10-12A, which I believe is the highest available.
Measured my NW TC20:
hotspot 4800K
spill 5600K
Have a look at maukka’s review of the Acebeam K30. Temp and tint wise the TC20 is quite similar but not as bad due to the smaller OP reflector.
I’ve read that the latest generation CREE leds, the XP-G3, XP-L2 and XHP50.2 have quite some issues with so to speak “rainbows” being created using a (specific) reflector. Perhaps this is also the case with XHP70.2, and this is what you’re seeing. I have only one light with XHP70.2 (Haikelite MT07S), and I don’t have this problem.
Perhaps you could have similar issues with the cool white version. Only one way to find out.
I’ll let you know if the cool white has the same issues. Again, in normal use it’s not really a problem. Im just being overly picky. Aren’t we all?