After some trial and error this is basically the same conclusion I came to as well. However, since I was not confident in my assembly I kept the longer than usual wires and spent a lot of time stuffing them in the body so I could test before the final “snip”. Needless to say I re-did my solder a few too many times (troubleshooting my switch) and I think I bridged something I shouldn’t have. I was testing with a protected battery and kept getting no light. I got curious and swapped to a VTC6 and needless to say I got something, magic smoke. Pretty much right after I tightened the battery down I could hear the battery was suddenly “loose” in the body. It had instantly vaporized the tail spring including the bypass.
Ordered a new driver to get a clean slate and surgery will resume this weekend.
My buddy wants to know why they call it magic smoke? He says it’s satanic. lol
I’m thinking of disassembling mine completely and baking the finish, need to differentiate this one from the other’s and that’d be a good way to do it. (Yes, I really really like how Kawiboy’s Convoy came out! lol )
I like the way ZozzV6 did his L2 with the gradient. I was able to do something ‘similar’ on my M1 without much experience. The burnt orange going towards the torch end just seems fitting.
My miniature knock off. If I did it again I think I could prevent the bezel (it’s super THIN) from becoming too brown with a little more caution.
I was wondering the same thing. But I’m looking for a driver that doesn’t have multiple modes (so I can use Lexel’s rear pressure switch mods with it on my hunting rig).
I think Sofirn sells their driver but if you’re looking for serious output, you might grab Richards FET+1. There are a couple e-switch firmware options including the new popular D4 firmware that ships on the Emisar D4 from Hank and written by Tom E and ToyKeeper.
Which brings me to ask a question… Has anyone else had a very difficult time in unscrewing the tail cap internal retaining ring/ I have 2 and have not been able to unscrew either tail cap retainer ring.
:person_facepalming: I thank you for that tidbit of info. I did get it removed just now. My retainer ring was quite snug after all the “loosening” attempts I had done. :disappointed: :person_facepalming: I never dreamed it could be a left hand thread. If I read that I completely forgot it. Thank you all very very much.
Thanks GC! I took the bite last night... two C8F's and 8 XP-LT LEDs from Arrow are on the way. I used your link to the LEDs and man was that easy-- otherwise a needle in a hay stack :UGHH: I am looking forward to actually using some solder for the first time here. But, the LEDs will be here Tuesday while the C8Fs will take a month (or more?). So I'll have plenty of time to look at the shiny new LEDs :P
I looked at Richard's stuff some and I'm glad to see an option or two. Although I am still navigating my way re. understanding many driver features, the one thing still alluding me is output (and I'm starting to understand that specifications aside- you often have to try it to know). Being a newbie and wanting to get started with something in a working model-- I ordered the newer KDlight C8 (with the XHP50.2 in a 5K @ 2600 Lumen) because THAT driver got great marks on output and efficiency. I wish it didn't have the modes it has (since I'm using it for hunting as mentioned), but for the output I figured it would work well enough to get me started.
If Lexel (or someone) gets a HIGH output/efficient driver like the one in the KDLight, but in a single mode (on/off)-- I'll be happy with something like that for ONE of these C8F's. I did see Richard's $20 driver which (I think) would do this (and I LOVE the thermal management I read about on it), so might get one for my final hunting rig (which would end up using ONE of these two C8F's).
OK, dumb question (#357 )... Does the driver for these C8F kits HAVE to have taps for the switch? Or can it be hard wired in at some point?
(Yes, I really really like how Kawiboy’s Convoy came out! lol )
