What did you mod today?

I didn’t even know such a thing existed, and here you are modifying it! Sweeeeeet! :smiley:

MRsDNF, if great minds think alike that leaves you… where, exactly? :stuck_out_tongue: (you know good and well you left that wide open!)

A guy here struggling to make a simple triple and you make this CRX?!!! Ain’t fair :smiley:
Nice mod, that’s really cool!!! :sunglasses:

Ain’t it the truth MacaratumB? He’s putting out Picasso’s while some of us are playing with crayon’s.

And on that crayon note, I stuck an Zener modified FET driver in the little solid copper X5, put a sliced and diced XHP-50.2 on an XM-L board with 20ga leads, stripped the resistor off the lighted tail cap (Zener modded FET’s don’t like those) and will be using the little copper light with a pair of 14250’s. Charging 2 of those up to see how much light they give, it looks neat in there anyway even if the little cells aren’t up to it.

From the BLF Kronos group buy…

Number 003 of 400

I have a tread copy from Gearbest. I really neeeeeeeed to make this flashlight mod. What other mods you made to it? I saw some magnets and tritiums and a black thing on that flashlight piece next to the glassbreaker. What it that?

I’m just a poor old dumb Moose, :cry: :slight_smile:

LOL, a poor old dumb moose that makes some KILLER flashlights from scratch and otherwise. :smiley:

Speaking of being mentally challenged, this copper X5 had me running in circles. The 50.2 was only drawing .5A no matter what I tried. Come to find out, only 2 of the 4 dies were working, so I tried another and was testing it open on the bench when 2 started to flicker out! Whaaat? I was giving it too much power, but how, from 2 tiny 14250 cells? I had to go to smaller lead wires, as long as I could fit in the small light, remove heavy springs in favor of lighter ones, and I think now it might work. Looks to be pulling around 2A at the tail. This emitter may already be damaged though. Geesh. Too much, who’d have thought I could do something like that?

I inoocently stuck a 50.2 in my Jaxman M2 and it’s doing 3000 lumens from 2 14500’s. Go figure.

Edit: If it gives me any more trouble I’m going to a 70.2, putting bigger wires back in and going to thick springs with 20 ga bypasses. :smiley:

It’s a common problem with the XHP50.2. It might be from too much current at turn-on, but nobody has ever studied this conclusively.

It might also just be that Cree is having problems manufacturing these.

Well, in all fairness, these 3 50.2’s I had laying around came out of my DBC-05 scratch build. That one was making some 12,000 lumens when I decided to swap em out for 70.2’s. So these have been abused already, before now.

Same thing happened to me with an XHP50.2 and two 14250’s. I did eventually reflow the emitter and it worked again for a short time until the dome fell off really easily, try testing it while pressing on the dome if you can, see what that does.

That is a piece of ferrocerium rod in there.

I saw that version on GB, was wondering about the quality of it, looks good?

Other mods I did to the tread were installing Torx bits #10, #8, #6 plus the 2mm & 1.5mm hex bits held in by magnets in the spare slots, reversed all the outer link pieces, four white tritium vials, small diamond file stuck inside one of the links, magnets on the clasp for extra closure security and added a leather patch for a more comfort fit.

Thorfire TK18 simple emitter exchange. It comes with an XPL NW emitter. Swapped it out with a 20mm Noctigon with a XPL-HI V3 3C.

Before

After

Did the HI clear that sidewalk for you? :wink:

We had a heat wave, 37 today

Et tu Dale? :stuck_out_tongue:
As I said, a guy struggling to make a small mod and you putting those beauties here :person_facepalming: Ain’t fair!!! :smiley:
I guess I’m still writing with a stone, no pencils here for a simple draw or a small writing :person_facepalming:
But…I still have trust in evolution through learning :nerd_face:

Awesome and inspiring mods, those you guys and gals present here :face_with_monocle: Thanks :+1:

A bit cheaper then the orig Tread
Gearbest:Wearable Stainless Steel Multi-tool https://gearbest.app.link/S4cQKThZRJ
$80

I was waiting around for the Thorfire K70 gb but I got impatient and ended up buying a Thorfire s70s. I ended up modding it with a lexel TA driver w/ narsil, lexel switch board w/ orange leds, xhp70.2 (P2 4000K) and Convoy L6 smooth reflector. The beam still has a doughnut but it’s much much less noticeable. The led has a noticeable green tint on lower settings but it’s less noticeable as you go to high.

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could the top screw in this photo create a short? it looks as thought it is touching the negative solder pad.

I put a Luxeon V in my Jaxman M8 together with a 6A LD-B4 and warm white ILC-0.

I can confirm all that has been said about the Luxeon V, the tint is pleasant and output is impressive. The host seemed to take 6A really well so I switched high mode to DD and it can still go a few minutes before the thermal stepdown with the default configuration.

On something that close, DoNkEyConN, I’d mount the screw in my drill and run the head over a file to reduce the diameter slightly, just a little would give a safe margin of clearance and you wouldn’t have to worry about it. Preventive maintenance is a lot easier than total rebuilds on things that reek of magic smoke. :wink:

Thanks for the response Dale,
yeah I agree, I have already damaged 2 drivers trying to assemble this light. learning curve, but definitely don’t wanna do it again.
That’s a great idea. I was actually going to try and reflow the xhp70.2 LED onto the original XHP70 MCPCB that came with the L6. Is the standard convoy MCPCB as good as the Kaidomain ones?
or
Just purchase a new XHP70.2 on a board that i know will fit the L6 without grinding away at it. Simon at convoy has just Added XHP70.2s to his AE store. he only has 4000k LEDs at the mo, but I messaged him yesterday and he said he will have 5000k in the next few days.

Finished up two 365nm UV light bars, plus got another one about 75% complete.

I saw djozz’s thread on the SST-10 and picked enough to complete a few lights with them. I don’t have any good way to test the output, but my impression was that the SST-10’s are more intense than the LiteOn 365nm emitters when tested side by side.

On a side note, it’s funny how the manufacturer didn’t even bother masking off the mounting surface on some of these light bars. A few of them weren’t so bad, but the others were powder coated completely over. They just smeared a bunch of thermal paste across it and screwed down the boards.

I got one more sanded tonight and two left to finish.