Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

That looks great! Host ordered :slight_smile:

What is a good driver to use with the C8F host?

Should I order one from Sofirn or would Richard at Mountain have something suitable…… or somewhere else?

Thank’s in advance for any info.

I was wondering the same thing. But I’m looking for a driver that doesn’t have multiple modes (so I can use Lexel’s rear pressure switch mods with it on my hunting rig).

I think Sofirn sells their driver but if you’re looking for serious output, you might grab Richards FET+1. There are a couple e-switch firmware options including the new popular D4 firmware that ships on the Emisar D4 from Hank and written by Tom E and ToyKeeper.

Is it possible to bore the battery tube out to fit a 21700.

Just noticed this interesting triple.

Not at all. The tube is only 22.69 mm diameter at the tail end and that is including the cut thread depth. 18.88 mm ID on mine.

Which brings me to ask a question… Has anyone else had a very difficult time in unscrewing the tail cap internal retaining ring/ I have 2 and have not been able to unscrew either tail cap retainer ring.

These just look great! How are you doing it, in an oven or with a torch?

I am having trouble understanding how you are getting it to gradually fade from the black to orange. BUT… is sure looks nice. :wink:

Any info appreciated…… :+1:

That looks super nice Jerommel!!! :+1: .
I’ll be looking forward when you have the time to do the next one and post pictures. :slight_smile:

I dont have one but is it left hand thread?

I do remember reading in Dale’s review that it is. :+1: <span class=“myself check double to now it find to Trying do. I 'think” I least at Or">

Take what I said with a grain of salt. I do remember reading it last night…
but can’t find for sure who said it or where…… yet. :person_facepalming:

Confirmative. Reverse threaded. Mine was actually quite loose :stuck_out_tongue: :wink:

:person_facepalming: I thank you for that tidbit of info. I did get it removed just now. My retainer ring was quite snug after all the “loosening” attempts I had done. :disappointed: :person_facepalming: I never dreamed it could be a left hand thread. If I read that I completely forgot it. Thank you all very very much.

Thanks GC! I took the bite last night... two C8F's and 8 XP-LT LEDs from Arrow are on the way. I used your link to the LEDs and man was that easy-- otherwise a needle in a hay stack :UGHH: I am looking forward to actually using some solder for the first time here. But, the LEDs will be here Tuesday while the C8Fs will take a month (or more?). So I'll have plenty of time to look at the shiny new LEDs :P

I looked at Richard's stuff some and I'm glad to see an option or two. Although I am still navigating my way re. understanding many driver features, the one thing still alluding me is output (and I'm starting to understand that specifications aside- you often have to try it to know). Being a newbie and wanting to get started with something in a working model-- I ordered the newer KDlight C8 (with the XHP50.2 in a 5K @ 2600 Lumen) because THAT driver got great marks on output and efficiency. I wish it didn't have the modes it has (since I'm using it for hunting as mentioned), but for the output I figured it would work well enough to get me started.

If Lexel (or someone) gets a HIGH output/efficient driver like the one in the KDLight, but in a single mode (on/off)-- I'll be happy with something like that for ONE of these C8F's. I did see Richard's $20 driver which (I think) would do this (and I LOVE the thermal management I read about on it), so might get one for my final hunting rig (which would end up using ONE of these two C8F's).

OK, dumb question (#357 )... Does the driver for these C8F kits HAVE to have taps for the switch? Or can it be hard wired in at some point?

Thank you gchart for that info…. :slight_smile:
Yep… looking for serious output. I think I found it too by following your suggestion to check out Richards FET +1.

My first complete C8F has a locked tail cap retaining ring too. Only light that has beat me on disassembly. I kinda gave up but I will give it a GO with Heat a few more times.
Haven’t played with the Hosts yet though…

Edit…

OOPS…
Yeah I shoulda tried that. THANKS!

Well, success…
Got a quality tailcap spring bypass using 20 AWG on my C8F.

Some advice please. I am building using the Sofirn host and driver. I did the same thing contactcr did, leave the wires long and try to stuff them down in the open space below the driver. I can get the thing to turn on but only if I don’t have the tube screwed all the way in. That is, if I have the tail cap on tight and the tube body unscrewed it works. If I snug up the tube body it doesn’t turn on. I guess you will want to know what battery I am using but I am not at home right now so can’t tell you. It is flat top that was pulled from a computer battery. Everything works fine if I just leave the tube loose.

Is your battery tube on backwards?

Check and see if your spring bypass is still secure too. Could it be triggering the battery protection (you said laptop pull) when a loose bypass wire makes connection with less resistance (on either end really)