What did you mod today?

Thorfire TK18 simple emitter exchange. It comes with an XPL NW emitter. Swapped it out with a 20mm Noctigon with a XPL-HI V3 3C.

Before

After

Did the HI clear that sidewalk for you? :wink:

We had a heat wave, 37 today

Et tu Dale? :stuck_out_tongue:
As I said, a guy struggling to make a small mod and you putting those beauties here :person_facepalming: Ain’t fair!!! :smiley:
I guess I’m still writing with a stone, no pencils here for a simple draw or a small writing :person_facepalming:
But…I still have trust in evolution through learning :nerd_face:

Awesome and inspiring mods, those you guys and gals present here :face_with_monocle: Thanks :+1:

A bit cheaper then the orig Tread
Gearbest:Wearable Stainless Steel Multi-tool https://gearbest.app.link/S4cQKThZRJ
$80

I was waiting around for the Thorfire K70 gb but I got impatient and ended up buying a Thorfire s70s. I ended up modding it with a lexel TA driver w/ narsil, lexel switch board w/ orange leds, xhp70.2 (P2 4000K) and Convoy L6 smooth reflector. The beam still has a doughnut but it’s much much less noticeable. The led has a noticeable green tint on lower settings but it’s less noticeable as you go to high.

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could the top screw in this photo create a short? it looks as thought it is touching the negative solder pad.

I put a Luxeon V in my Jaxman M8 together with a 6A LD-B4 and warm white ILC-0.

I can confirm all that has been said about the Luxeon V, the tint is pleasant and output is impressive. The host seemed to take 6A really well so I switched high mode to DD and it can still go a few minutes before the thermal stepdown with the default configuration.

On something that close, DoNkEyConN, I’d mount the screw in my drill and run the head over a file to reduce the diameter slightly, just a little would give a safe margin of clearance and you wouldn’t have to worry about it. Preventive maintenance is a lot easier than total rebuilds on things that reek of magic smoke. :wink:

Thanks for the response Dale,
yeah I agree, I have already damaged 2 drivers trying to assemble this light. learning curve, but definitely don’t wanna do it again.
That’s a great idea. I was actually going to try and reflow the xhp70.2 LED onto the original XHP70 MCPCB that came with the L6. Is the standard convoy MCPCB as good as the Kaidomain ones?
or
Just purchase a new XHP70.2 on a board that i know will fit the L6 without grinding away at it. Simon at convoy has just Added XHP70.2s to his AE store. he only has 4000k LEDs at the mo, but I messaged him yesterday and he said he will have 5000k in the next few days.

Finished up two 365nm UV light bars, plus got another one about 75% complete.

I saw djozz’s thread on the SST-10 and picked enough to complete a few lights with them. I don’t have any good way to test the output, but my impression was that the SST-10’s are more intense than the LiteOn 365nm emitters when tested side by side.

On a side note, it’s funny how the manufacturer didn’t even bother masking off the mounting surface on some of these light bars. A few of them weren’t so bad, but the others were powder coated completely over. They just smeared a bunch of thermal paste across it and screwed down the boards.

I got one more sanded tonight and two left to finish.

Lot of UV’n there M, nice work getting the details ironed out. Reminds me of when we used to paint posters with black light paints and fill the room with the blue glow… late 60’s… geesh, wasn’t that just yesterday?

What are going to use some much UV radiation for?
Seems a bit dangerous :).

Sofirn C8F host + mapp gas torch =

That is a really good colour, Don! I may go for that in mine too!

Now I’m waiting for three Nichia 319AT’s to arrive.

Really nice. I don’t know if I’d dare try it myself though.

Sorry for late answer. It is pretty good. It has a little burr on some parts and the glass breaker is formed from same material az that piece of the chain so it is not a separate pressed in part. It has Leatherman logos and brand mark :smiley:
I mostly use it as a jewel and not a tool. But I hasn’t seen an original one so I can not really judge differences

Not a mod, only a fix:

The switch of my beloved RGBW Color Emisar D4 got broken, and since I wasn’t patient enough to wait for replacement parts I fixed it quick and dirty. You see the broken switch at the right in the left picture. The dome came off (the scratches in the plastic base were caused by the tweezers when removing with hot air). The new switch at the left (the smallest one I had) was still too large for the tiny 6 x 6 mm board, so I bent the legs down and soldered it to the board with hot air (right picture). The rubber boot had a bump in the middle which I had to cut. It’s still more protruding than before but it works at least.

That’s what happened to mine, I just taped the dome back in place, still working so far.
Nice fix though :+1: