They look great!
CLOSER LOOK OF THE BOARDS
Quick sanding using #1000,#1500, and #2000 sand paper revealed the narrower gap. But the copper trace’s edge is rounded, I have to dig deeper into the crevice to remove the solder masking which I didn’t do. From many previous tests we knew for this particular LED, the junction temperature is far lower than that in the phosphors layer. The top layer will be well done long before the die overheats. Djozz also did his test (E17A & E21A 5000K R8000) with only 1/3 of each pad sitting on the copper trace resulted in approximately same max output limit.
If I didn’t know about photon cross-talks, I would reflow them with no gap. These LEDs will replace those in my scooter (plus more powerful driver). They’re the same sm503 D220 R9080
Beauty!
Unlike 2 Oz copper trace in VR16S1, the thinner trace in VR16SP4 is more accurate with well defined sharper edges. This is why I decided to use only 1Oz. copper on it. I’m amazed at how accurate the pads aperture made for it’s tiny size (1,26mm x 0,86mm)
- Clemence
Those were yours 
! Don’t worry about them being not parallel to each other, I re-align the positions before shipping.
- Clemence
That is why I was so happy 
With these quad boards and each of the color temps of the E21 being equally useful in different circumstances I think it is time to revisit RGBW-type drivers. In terms of UI, the closest thing I’ve been able to find is this simple djozz’s hack. In case of quad boards each channel would go to individual E21. This is something I will certainly attempt to do when I have tested these boards with these LEDs.
What would be ideal to have though is a full featured programmable driver which would at least allow one to program current setting for each individual channel (the UI being the same, ie progressive switching to the next LED) but preferably the ability to also set specific switching for an arbitrary amount of modes. For example mode1 = LED1@10mamp, mode2=(LED1+LED2)@1amp.
So far I’ve been able to identify here only one RGBW driver more advanced that the djozz’s hack, which is this one, but the firmware went in a very different direction than what I am discussing here.
UPDATE 180122:
- NVSWE21AT SM653-D240-R9080 shipped from Japan today
- Clemence
Interesting, what does 6500K do with almost 100 CRI?? Not directly my COT but I doubt that I can resist some
I think that ma tumba has completed his quad with these!
Yeah same here. Ordered just out of curiousity hahaha.
Individually addressable VR16SP4 with 2000K - 4000K - 5000K - 6500K will cover most needs.
Have you tried the proto boards yet Jos?
- Clemence
No, I have not tried them, I’m still waiting for the 2000K E21A’s and will do some builds on your boards.
Also, I will be testing the Cree XD16 on your board, but they are not for sale at Mouser or RS-online yet.
So, soon they will be used!
WoW
6500K R9080!
While I was considering various options I came across the dr Jones rgbw driver which seems to be nearly perfect fit. I wonder if they are still available? Dr Jones has not been active here for quite a while.
I just received package with mcpsb. Actually the test samples I like more . Edge have ledge (saunds weird, don’t know how to say it in english:))so it should be polished before use.
Really nice work Clemence! Congrats!
Sorry about that AEDe, can’t do nothing about it.
I described it earlier when the final product arrived (with pictures too). Of course the prototype finishes were much better since those were made using CNC router ONE by ONE. To cut down cost the final product incorporate V-score for easier/cheaper machining and faster cutting rate (hence the flared outer edges). And FYI, those prototypes actual cost was USD 38,5/pc, and I ordered 60pcs.
I guess for flashlight modding hobby, deburring and lapping the MCPCB can be considered as a routine. I do small batches of streetlights using those boards and still do the lapping too (for the MCPCBs, not me). Those flares can be fix fairly easily using #1000 sandpaper on flat surface.
- Clemence
Clemence, have you ever considered making an adapter for mounting e21s on standard 3535 boards? I mean a 3535 sized very thin two sided board with 2 contact plates on one side (just like one on your quad boards) and 3 standard contacts on the other side?
These would be useful for standard triple/quad light engines
That would be very inefficient in terms of performance, cost, and form factor. Easier to just cram three boards closer. The next plan would be triple board.
- Clemence
Sorry I missed that) Actually it is not problem at all. Prototype have wow quality…Now it is clear 38.5)
I’ve got a lot of CRI measurements from the E21As Clemence sent me here for those interested:
The results are very good. Super neutral on small currents, rosier on higher. CCT isn’t really affected.
ArmyTek Wizard Pro XM-L2
Nichia E21A 6500K R9080 & 5000K R9080
Next mod on the right……
