New VirEnce MCPCB for E17/E21/119/144/233U

UPDATE 180122:

  • NVSWE21AT SM653-D240-R9080 shipped from Japan today

- Clemence

Interesting, what does 6500K do with almost 100 CRI?? Not directly my COT but I doubt that I can resist some :slight_smile:

I think that ma tumba has completed his quad with these!

Yeah same here. Ordered just out of curiousity hahaha.
Individually addressable VR16SP4 with 2000K - 4000K - 5000K - 6500K will cover most needs.

Have you tried the proto boards yet Jos?

- Clemence

No, I have not tried them, I’m still waiting for the 2000K E21A’s and will do some builds on your boards.

Also, I will be testing the Cree XD16 on your board, but they are not for sale at Mouser or RS-online yet.

So, soon they will be used! :slight_smile:

WoW

6500K R9080!

:money_mouth_face:

While I was considering various options I came across the dr Jones rgbw driver which seems to be nearly perfect fit. I wonder if they are still available? Dr Jones has not been active here for quite a while.

I just received package with mcpsb. Actually the test samples I like more . Edge have ledge (saunds weird, don’t know how to say it in english:))so it should be polished before use.

Really nice work Clemence! Congrats!

Sorry about that AEDe, can’t do nothing about it.
I described it earlier when the final product arrived (with pictures too). Of course the prototype finishes were much better since those were made using CNC router ONE by ONE. To cut down cost the final product incorporate V-score for easier/cheaper machining and faster cutting rate (hence the flared outer edges). And FYI, those prototypes actual cost was USD 38,5/pc, and I ordered 60pcs.
I guess for flashlight modding hobby, deburring and lapping the MCPCB can be considered as a routine. I do small batches of streetlights using those boards and still do the lapping too (for the MCPCBs, not me). Those flares can be fix fairly easily using #1000 sandpaper on flat surface.

- Clemence

Clemence, have you ever considered making an adapter for mounting e21s on standard 3535 boards? I mean a 3535 sized very thin two sided board with 2 contact plates on one side (just like one on your quad boards) and 3 standard contacts on the other side?

These would be useful for standard triple/quad light engines

That would be very inefficient in terms of performance, cost, and form factor. Easier to just cram three boards closer. The next plan would be triple board.

- Clemence

Sorry I missed that) Actually it is not problem at all. Prototype have wow quality…Now it is clear 38.5)

I’ve got a lot of CRI measurements from the E21As Clemence sent me here for those interested:

The results are very good. Super neutral on small currents, rosier on higher. CCT isn’t really affected.

ArmyTek Wizard Pro XM-L2

Nichia E21A 6500K R9080 & 5000K R9080

Next mod on the right……

Nice job Steel,

With newer Wizard the removal is much harder since AT now use two O-rings on top and below the glass
Here’s mine: [MOD] Armytek Wizard Pro XHP50 to 4x Nichia E21A - #17 by clemence

Beam shots please

- Clemence

Btw, make sure you clean the flux residue. At higher current the residue will thin and wet the LEDs sides. When things gets hotter, it will cause phosphor burns.
Boiling IPA and nylon brush is all it takes

- Clemence

What is IPA?

Isopropyl Alcohol. Usually available at the drug counter in 70% - 95. Higher concentration doesn’t seems to work any better. IPA needs water to dissolve fats such as solder grease/flux residue. I bought 95 just to save money. I added 50% filtered distilled water taken from my air conditioner condensation (It’s very humid here at 88-90%, I usually got ~20 liter distilled water per day).

- Clemence

Nice, I’m planning the same on my wizard, but with a pretty wild combo of emitters :smiley:
2x 3000k + 5000k + 6500k. I’m curious how the resulting tint will look. Should be around 4500k I guess.