Discussion : - Utorch UT01

Today I received my UT01. Color NW.
First conclusions:
The color is much warmer. 3789K came out of my measurements. I would prefer closer to the declared value.
I am waiting for a battery of 14500, so the first tests with eneloop AA.
The amount of light from 1m is 2209 lux. Pretty good.
The switch is very unstable. Works, does not work, works again in a moment. Evidently the fault of the switch because I measured the circuits.

Cześć!

Is this using stock/factory programming? Or did you reprogram the light to the highest possible setting when measuring this?

Pozdrawiam!

In fact, I forgot to mention it. of course, I reprogrammed and scalped the diode. :person_facepalming:

Scalped?

This is not my work, but it looks like that:

And such a curiosity, programming 4 modes (including turbo) on AA batteries works

YES!!

How bad is the parasitic drain on this light? I have it on order as a gift to my parents as a backup light and they will leave battery in the light for sure.

@SKV89, according to this review from giorgosko it is “Stand-by current (parasitic drain) : 0,014mA”
You can read it here: Review : Utorch UT01 Flashlight (XP-L V6 / AA & 14500 / e-switch)

Ordered one of these 9 days ago at GB and our postal services mailed me that I will get it today. But the 14500 batteries are not here yet so can’t test it fully :frowning:
Actually ordered 2, the second one was ordered couple days later.

O_o

What does the beam look like?

Wow 0.014ma parasitic drain is really low. I’m impressed given such a cheap light. That means its safe to keep the battery in there.

Not much is changing, the camo center shines a little harder.

FYI, that parasitic drain value is for a Li-Ion cell. My cheap DMM shows 0.0135 mA. I’m sure it will fluctuate a little depending on the cell’s charge state/voltage.

For a NiMH cell, it’s 0.0045 mA.

Both my UT01 lights are still working fine, without needing to do the tailcap mod; however, the tailcap springs dig into my NiMH cells pretty good, causing visible indentations on the back of the cell. I guess that’s better than crushing the driver on the other side.

I’ve started inserting cells from the top now so that I don’t have to touch the tail cap.

Today Soshine reached 14500 so I made new measurements:

Of course, the hue has not changed, but it is brighter. 3718 lux with 1m.
I solved the spring problem by cropping the larger one. Now there is no problem with different batteries. The switch was also sucked, I ordered a new one for replacement, but … I did something else in between. I added a piece of plastic between the switch and the eraser and now works beautifully every time. The size of the cartridge is about 1.5mm.
Now I like the flashlight. Of course, the gearbest returned the money for a defective product.

Somebody mentioned the battery drain earlier (probably regarding UT01 but I’m not sure). The measurements indicate for AA 4.7uA and for 14500 14uA. The result is great. For comparison UT02 has 8.3uA and Lumintop SDMini up to 40uA (which is not bad anyway)

I didn’t notice it at first but now I’m having the same problem with the switch as you. So I’m thinking to try as you did to insert the plastic in the switch boot, was that hard to do? What did you use for the plastic, a flat disc? And how thick?

Also when you said the cartridge is about 1.5mm what are you referring to as the “cartridge”?

You have to take off the elastic band and between it and the switch add a piece of plastic about 1.5mm thick. It’s enough for the switch to work perfectly.

I just received my UT01 from gearbest. It is very small and relatively bright. Not as bright as the Zebralight SC5c II that I just returned but the UT01 has better tint. The SC5c II had too much green in the tint, which was nasty. However, it is not the best looking tint, still more on the yellow side. It is closer to 3800k than 5000k. Compared to my Emisar D4 with 4000k, the D4’s tint looks way better and has more rosy tone than the UT01. For the price, it can’t be beat and I’m planning to get a few more to give to my parents and friends since the UI is simple enough to use.

Thanks, so I guess I’d need to de-solder stuff and remove the driver to get to it? Or can you somehow just remove the switch bezel?

If it’s too involved I’ll just wait and see if it starts to really bother me. As it is it works fine if you click it square and firm.

You do not have to pull out the driver. Just pull out the rubber button. The flashlight has been working perfectly since the modification. Every wedge is correct, light, strong, it does not matter.

Thanks for the reply …I hate to make you keep elaborating but I don’t want to damage it, and I’d like to try your fix if it’s easy:

To clarify you’re saying I can just pull out the rubber switch cover with out doing anything else? So no need to remove or unscrew the switch bezel retainer ring part?