The switch of my beloved RGBW Color Emisar D4 got broken, and since I wasn’t patient enough to wait for replacement parts I fixed it quick and dirty. You see the broken switch at the right in the left picture. The dome came off (the scratches in the plastic base were caused by the tweezers when removing with hot air). The new switch at the left (the smallest one I had) was still too large for the tiny 6 x 6 mm board, so I bent the legs down and soldered it to the board with hot air (right picture). The rubber boot had a bump in the middle which I had to cut. It’s still more protruding than before but it works at least.
That’s what I tried first, but although it worked, it didn’t feel right when pressing. Used capton tape, didn’t have anything better. What tape did you use?
I also looked for this switches and found some, similar to djozzs first link. Asked for exact metrics and learned they were too big. In fact 4.5 x 4.5 + length of the connectors instead of 4 x 4. The second link is interesting though.
Problem is the small board of 6x6mm, longer legs would touch the casing.
I’m not really happy with how close the amc’s are with the spring and its not noticeable brighter then my other triple with 2,8A convoy biscotti.
The last thing is, i wanted a lighted tailcap, Lexel already mounted the resistors needed (thanx) but i did not get the convoy lighted switch working.
After reassembling the old switch it does not function anymore.
I reassembled it several times without luck.
Measured the omten switch itself, it does function, but measuring on the spring and pcb, i don’t measure contact.
Am i doing something wrong?
Remember that Bistro is in basic config like you got it without turbo in regular modes modegroup 11
If you want Turbo included you can use modegroup 4
From moon long press goes to hidden modes starting at turbo
If you fear the AMCs short its possible to cut middle leg with a sharp knife and cover then the rest with epoxy glue
I like to use a copper mcpcb and solder it to the top of the copper pill in the re-flow process. The S2+ I have with Hoop’s pill is making 3029 lumens and I just love it!
Dale, thanks for your compliment, it’s one from Kiriba with filed down notches since it came smooth and i couldn’t figure out how to assemble it without them.
Didn’t spend much time on it yet, since i finished it yesterday evening late, and i’ve got annoyed by the fact that i did not get the switch working again, so have to figure that out first, so another thing to do tonight
Any tips on the switch?
Still not seeing why it doesn’t work
The switch timing is crucial, had to find out with trial an error how long i needed to press.
Apparently, the retaining ring from the switch was not tight enough (although i thought it was quite tight already)
I really like it with the lighted switch, nice touch that it switches off when turned on and lights up when you switch mode.
Also on turbo its very bright, and i am very happy with the tint.
The XPL-Hi 4B tint is slightly warmer then my 5000K Nichia triple and the copper pill does it’s job very well!
