What did you mod today?

That’s what happened to mine, I just taped the dome back in place, still working so far.
Nice fix though :+1:

That’s what I tried first, but although it worked, it didn’t feel right when pressing. Used capton tape, didn’t have anything better. What tape did you use?

Fairly sure it was kapton tape I used too. Still would like a source for these switches though.

Are they anything like these?: Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

Edit: or better this one: Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

Close, could be compatible, the Emisar versions are on like a little fibreglass board with the connection pads on the underside.

I also looked for this switches and found some, similar to djozzs first link. Asked for exact metrics and learned they were too big. In fact 4.5 x 4.5 + length of the connectors instead of 4 x 4. The second link is interesting though.
Problem is the small board of 6x6mm, longer legs would touch the casing.

Maybe Emisar uses these :

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Imported-ALPS-Tact-Switch-Touch-switch-4-5-4-5-0-4-mm-Cellphone-Power-switch/2079030_32627634962.html

Edit : 30pcs link here

ALPS SKRBAAE010

This is the original D4 switch (without dome), 4.5 x 4.5 x 0.6 mm (height approx. incl. dome):

(Got a cheap macro lens for my smartphone)

Height without dome is 0.4 mm, so I think giorgoskok found the right one. Thanks!

Updated previous post with a 30pcs link ,if it’s the correct switch of course :+1:

Another seller:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/AJ-098-Imported-ALPS-film-type-dust-SKRM-light-touch-switch-4-5-4-5-4/32777851533.html
Height is claimed different, but I guess it’s just a typo.

Just finished my 2nd triple

There are a few things though

I’m not really happy with how close the amc’s are with the spring and its not noticeable brighter then my other triple with 2,8A convoy biscotti.

The last thing is, i wanted a lighted tailcap, Lexel already mounted the resistors needed (thanx) but i did not get the convoy lighted switch working.
After reassembling the old switch it does not function anymore.

I reassembled it several times without luck.
Measured the omten switch itself, it does function, but measuring on the spring and pcb, i don’t measure contact.
Am i doing something wrong?

Regards

P

Remember that Bistro is in basic config like you got it without turbo in regular modes modegroup 11
If you want Turbo included you can use modegroup 4
From moon long press goes to hidden modes starting at turbo

If you fear the AMCs short its possible to cut middle leg with a sharp knife and cover then the rest with epoxy glue

Is that one of Hoop’s pills? Beautiful work! :slight_smile:

I like to use a copper mcpcb and solder it to the top of the copper pill in the re-flow process. The S2+ I have with Hoop’s pill is making 3029 lumens and I just love it! :slight_smile:

Nice mod, enjoy!

Thanks for the tip Lexel, will try that.

Dale, thanks for your compliment, it’s one from Kiriba with filed down notches since it came smooth and i couldn’t figure out how to assemble it without them.

Didn’t spend much time on it yet, since i finished it yesterday evening late, and i’ve got annoyed by the fact that i did not get the switch working again, so have to figure that out first, so another thing to do tonight :wink:

Any tips on the switch?
Still not seeing why it doesn’t work

Regards
P

Lexel, thanx for the info!

The switch timing is crucial, had to find out with trial an error how long i needed to press.

Apparently, the retaining ring from the switch was not tight enough (although i thought it was quite tight already)
I really like it with the lighted switch, nice touch that it switches off when turned on and lights up when you switch mode.

Also on turbo its very bright, and i am very happy with the tint.
The XPL-Hi 4B tint is slightly warmer then my 5000K Nichia triple and the copper pill does it’s job very well!

did you have to shave the driver edge to fit the pill?

I had today the opportunity to compare the NW GT driver modded Niwalker with a CW GT driver modded Thrunite TN42

all pictures 50m from target

a bit overexposed on the first shot

reduced ISO on camera for control shot

zoomed iout both lights

TN42 CW

Added a Nichia 219C D240 4000K 90CRI to my Utorch UT01. It was purchased with an XP-L 1A 6500K which is way too cool white for me.

Mod was fairly easy too:

  • Unscrew the bezel and you have loose front glass/oring
  • Unscrew the reflector which is threaded to the inside of the body tube
  • Take the centering ring and set it aside so you dont lose it (it’s important)
  • You can either unsolder the LED wires now or lift the pcb from its base and do it while the pcb is suspended
  • The LED pcb is not screwed down or anything it only had some thermal paste under it, you can work it out with tweezers from the flat edges and/or the wire holes if you are careful
  • I cleaned off the paste and reflowed on the stove top. The pcb isnt clearly marked but the anode/positive side is the same side as the positive LED wire mark and the solder they used seemed to be some leaded low(er) heat stuff so it wasn’t too hard to work with
  • Resolder LED wires and try to stuff them back through the holes. I only got one side completely back in. The other side I folded over and ran the extra along the edge of the PCB leaving room for the centering ring since there is a good size gap between the reflector base and the pcb/body tube.
  • Centering ring back on > screw reflector back and re-center everything with the last half turn since the pcb is floating on thermal goo > oring > glass > bezel