BLF GT (preliminary) modding thread

Keep in mind that the meters we use favor CW emitters to NW. I generally see about a ~10-15% difference in readings from equal bin emitters of different tints.

So that would actually put both emitters at about the same throw level with that factored in.

Although the total readings you are getting are a bit lower then most, not sure why. High humidity, smog and other factors play into things and since your 20m readings are lower then your 15m readings this leads me to think this is the case for you. Most see the highest readings at 20m.

For example VOB got his 1.29mcs reading at 20m with lower readings are closer distances.

All that said, I can’t say for sure one way or the other. Just theory’s.

Not a mod to the light, but wanted to share my method of sling attachment. I used:
Black split rings
Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing (3 to 1 shrinkage)
Kevlar trip line (80lb. test with good abrasion resistance)

Heat shrinking the split ring prevents scratching and noise when contacting the light. The Kevlar line has been good for other uses, so I am hoping it will stand up to the wear caused by the edges of the attachment points to the light. I made the loops long enough to double up when attached creating mass and reducing slippage and movement. Used simple cows hitched to connect to the light and to the rings.

Works well so far.

Thanks for following this up.

Can you give some more specifics on the 3V mod parts? I’d like to set it at ~5A for XP-G2. I have plenty of resistors & other components kicking around, but possibly not the correct diode by the sound of it.

I’ve just dug out a couple of lights that I had throw #’s written down for;

A K40t that read about 8KCd less (312/320) than last tested, & a modded XHP35 HI light that read about ~20KCd lower (~490/510) than last tested.
So by the looks of things, the meter could be reading progressively lower, the higher it scales. (yes, I’ve already replaced the battery :slight_smile: ).

The meter is a few years old now, & has had plenty of use, so I might order a new one.

Afiak, the linked sst90 die is the same as the cft90. Only the package is different.

I will post the complete parts list once I test it. We picked out a few different components to try so there is some testing involved. Just have not figured out a 3V LED I want to use so bench testing will be what has to happen I suppose.

It should be able to just handle 5A @ 3V though with the upgrades.

I also noticed that my meter started reading a bit lower on lights I had measured previously a few months ago. Maybe that is why they provide caps for the sensor because they wear out?

Another factor is that since your numbers were dropping by 20m, it is very possible that the atmosphere around you is in part to blame. If there is a higher particulate in the air it will reduce the readings, particularly at longer ranges.

What may I ask is that other super thrower ?

The other light I was referring to is this one.

Not commercially available…. :smiley:

Nice, but I was curious about that silver one…

Nope, the SST-90, SBT-90 and CBT-90 are the same technology. They are from 2009.
The CFT-90 is new and much more efficient at the same current (around 60% at 9A). In addition to this it’s rated for a 50% higher maximum current (27A vs 18A).

Where did those guys who ordered massive aspheric lenses from optiform go!? :smiley:

I thought I’d remembered reading that the SST-90 was also updated.

If you look it these pictures its definitively different than an old version:
old:

new:

I am using something similar, I found a couple of para cord zipper pulls from an old backpack, they have a hard plastic coating on one side.

Is the driver which is good for the CFT90 an easy task or not?

Are there any plans for a longer battery tube?

Depends on how much current you want to drive to at. 30A will be difficult.

Got the SD75 XHP70 Boards, easy conversion to 12v, did one this morning.

Cool, where did you get the mcpcb’s?

They still say they plan to make some ready made 12V mcpcb’s once they get caught up on the GB but nice to have an option before that.

I got them from Lumintop T/A.

Personally , i would try to use a fet driver and limit the current though the led wires first .

Cheap solution , but it could work to at least get the emitter at a safe operating current .

Be very careful when trying to open it up, damaged the HALIII ?? anodizing while breaking two straps, the strapping was the only thing that touched the light, the bad news is it is still stuck, they hired King Kong to put this one together :rage:

Pass the 10lb hammer will you :weary:

Cheers David