[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

(dream) may be 219C sm4070e will be re-stocked… I will buy 3-5 pcs
I have receive and tested 219B sw45k - best universal LED, but for some application of night vision he is slightly “cold”… Wish an 4000-4200 CCT and magenta tint

I can’t promise, seems it would be harder to get those sm4070e again. Those were only 100 pcs.

- Clemence

Will be in for some, too.

UPDATE 180122:

  • NVSWE21AT SM653-D240-R9080 shipped from Japan today

- Clemence

NVSWE21AT SM653-D240-R9080 has arrived

- Clemence

WoW

I have to order again.

I have never seen 6500K R9080!

oh-oh, I’m in the same boat, ordered some. I have not even received the last order of 2000K E21A’s :person_facepalming:

edit: I just tracked my last order (1 month ago) and it is still in Indonesia somewhere :frowning: (ordernr 10105)

Don’t trust the economy tracking number. It’s not always updated, must be already somewhere in NL.
I’ll check it for you later this afternoon.

- Clemence

Click pictures to ENLARGE

I don’t use sunscreen in the workshop. It’s just something (I guess) widely available throughout Asia/Europe/US.

- Clemence

- Clemence

Nice work Clemence. Comparison photo with mixed CCT’s is great!

Hey Clemence! How green are 5+K e21s in real life?

You know what? I forgot the beamshots! :person_facepalming:


Yup agree, now I just can’t stand low CRI anymore. I’ve been extremely picky for CRI and tints ever since.

Personally, AT has the looks and features I like. Efficiency and reliability are it’s biggest issue which I’m trying to fix. Without the latter, it’s by far one of the best at it’s price class. Skillhunt is easier to mod, I agree. But it lacks features and UI AT has.

Thanks for the suggestion, hopefully a manufacturer would able to help us for a special true tint snobs EDC/headlamps product line. I’m not interested in making a group buy of special edition stuff. I prefer a user mod-able EDC that will last for many years ahead while still has the robustness of sealed OEM. And that’s what I’ve been trying. Tried to contact Fenix but got no reply yet.

While I’m just like you, an outdoor guy who knows how 300 lumens high CRI is so much better than 1000 lumens green lantern, I’m also a scientist wannabe :nerd_face: :nerd_face: . I like to tinker and….I do play with unnecessary experiments. Without that idealism, I wouldn’t make those boards anyhow.
I say, let them play and experiments. Because that what makes BLF so fun.


Green? Not at all, unless there’s something wrong with my eyes. Even E21A sm505 D320 R70 (my guinea pig) is one of the best low CRI with just the right amount of slight pink. Jensen567 also confirmed this, he kept his R70 (he supposed to kill them! :expressionless: )
All those E21As are my collection’s best CRI and tints (well, I don’t really like the sw45k)

- Clemence

It is not that I see any green in the pics, my question was related to the color diagrams that you have on your site. It is great that in fact the tint is neutral.

Re the sw45k. Well, I got the 6x of them and installed one into one of my DQG Spies. And then I installed 3 (THREE) pieces of lee filters to get optimum result. These were

- main +1/2 green filter to remove the primary rosy tint

- wide ring made of –1/2 green filter

  • narrow ring made of 1/2 green filter these two remove the green rim, inherent to any nichia LEDs except (domeless) N083B in a mule configuration.
    and a DC fix on top of these - to smooth out the radial color variations introduced by the rings

I invented this trick with lee rings when I had to mitigate tint shift in my e1e with Tana’s SingLED light engine. The shallow reflector of the e1e made the color of the hot spot really nasty, for it collected that greenish peripheral part of the original beam.

On the other hand, domed nichias are quite good in triples when their gree periphery does not affect the resulting beam. So 3 best of the remaining 5 will go to some triple. I really appreciate the way these sw45k bring up the reds at low lumen settings

I am really and I mean realy looking forward to getting those domeless E21 LEDs

Which combination is your favorite?

For work I still fav 5600-5700K. Outdoor 3500K. General purpose 5000K
But this new 6500K R9080 is so amazingly clean, whites are brilliant while the rest of the colors pops. Perhaps I can tolerate this one for my office space. Never liked anything above 5700K before.

- Clemence

OK guys, here’s the beamshots:
I used Texas_Ace’s order for showing purpose here. I’m sure he doesn’t mind :smiley:

With the new VR16SP4 board, cleaning the flux residue has never been easier.

Using commonly available 20mm TIR optic for Cree XML, the footprint loosely fits the holder. Although it works OK, for extreme power application this holder base has to be removed (unless you can carefully lower it down to slightly below the phosphor height). With faceted optic like this slight off focus won’t be too noticeable but the most important thing is to prevent the opaque holder from getting burnt. At 4A and beyond the side spill was hot enough to burn the neighboring LEDs (in previous gapless prototype).

Texas_Ace’s favourite CCT: 4500K. The combination of sm403 and sm503 should be close enough for his taste.


Control shot: Cloudy morning in Bali
15cm from the wall. If there’s any artifacts or weird beam shape, it should be obvious at this distance

Driven at 1,4A


Vertical direction

- Clemence

Yes it will fit most 20mm based TIR optics. But to get the most OTF lumens, the optics’s aperture should be 7mm (the diagonal of 4,8mm x 4,8mm is ~6,7mm).
Any optics with 6mm will work OK since the dies in this quadtrix setup don’t extend all the way to the edges. The losses would be minimal since E21A has narrower emission angle than Nichia 144Ax or Cree XHP50, thanks to the reflective side barrier.

Light Blue = Cool white E21A
Orange = Warm white E21A
Red = 219C
Blue = 144AM/R

- Clemence

I can’t wait to try out those LED’s, I have an optic very close to the one you are showing with the dimpled surface that I plan to use. Although it doesn’t use the white base, so it should not have any issues with burning. Although I might have to glue it in place to keep it from damaging the LED’s.

I wish I could find some optics with that dimpled surface but with a 20-30 degree beam angle, right now the best I have with those dimples are 60 degrees. The dimples work fantastic at mixing the tints in my experience.

Bought this, they’re on the way.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-quality-High-power-LED-Lens-CREE-XML-T5-T6-U2-Lens-Diameter-20mm-60-degrees/728091430.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.MYJ5co

Not optimal but a little aperture widening should works.

- Clemence