Wellp, my eneloop is still charging, so it definitely was drained dry.
The LFP “charged” quickly and is holding 3.4V or so.
It’d defeat the purpose to do a TCLO if I want to see how it’d hold up in practice, but it’d stop an accidental turn-on in a bag or pocket.
Only thing I can think of is that an LFP under load might look like a depleted Li-ion. But 3.2V? Awfully high value to lock-out…
No idea…
DMM’s reading a rather bouncy 20µA-40µA, and that’s it. Not likely to drain anything so fast. eneloop took a long while to charge from essentially 0, so maybe the switch just got bumped on in my bag/pocket (forgot which I was carrying where). Both LFPs I’m playing with charged to and are holding 3.35V, and after intentionally burning ’em down maybe 5min on H in both lights (A and B).
Think actual TCLO is safest, ’though the B has its soft LO.
Will just keep playing with ’em…
Do have to say, even though I liked the A quite a bit, the B kinda blows it away. Doubleclick to turbo, real firefly mode, soft LO, and a much nicer tint (nowhere near as yellow-green).
Hum, don’t know, but that may have happened, switching it on inside the pocket!
I know this may sound weird, but perhaps you need to try one more time with the exact same sets, to check if there was a anomalous drain or to see if there was an accidental turn ON.
Normally these side switch lights, I loose the head a bit or the tail just to avoid accidental turn ON in the pockets, a slight loose, enough to turn with one hand when I want to turn it ON again. I do that with the Manker E11, Olight S1R, Emisar D4, Sofirn SP10B.
In that way, tailclickies are better 
But I do agree, the SP10B is :heart_eyes: !
I can’t see any “greenish” tint on mine, it has beautiful NW tint 
That’s my guess.
I was going to leave them home, but not LOed, to see if there was any kind of drain. But with both the A and B only sipping ~30µA, I doubt they’re to blame. Probably just turned on accidentally, and drained ’em dry.
And people piss’n’moan about twisties…
Not the B, which is a nice non-green 5500K-6000K if I had to guess. The A, though, is kinda horribly yellow-green. Doesn’t seem like it at first, but when I got 2 of ’em side-by-side shining on the ceiling… gah!
I’d say the A is about on par with the F1 and Jet-I/-II as far as greeniness.
The brightness of my B is not far behind my S2+ with a 14500 . Mine holds charge in pocket but I glued a washer around the button . What is going on now with the Black A , red and blue B thing going on ? Is the A the same as the B now ?
Mine’s a first-edition A, but the latest As seem to have the same UI as the Bs, from what I heard. I don’t have any, so can’t attest to that personally.
I don’t have twisties, but that is a different situation 
A twisty may turn ON on the pocket more easily than a side switch light with loosen threads 
Unless you twist the twisty so much that you have to tight it up like half the threads’ length
The tint of the SP10B is better than both the SF14 and the SP10A (“older” model). I wouldn’t make that comparison as mine was more NW that CW. But it had a slight of green for sure!!
What seems to be happening is that the SP10Bs are the blue and red versions of the “new” SP10A, that has now the same UI as the former black/red/blue SP10B.
So, the SP10A seems to no longer have the 3 + 1 modes. Instead it has 3 + Turbo + lockout
In other words, SP10A and SP10B, being sold currently, are the same light with different host colour.
Let me confuse you a little further My red SP10B, has an SP10A driver, with SP10B UI. So yes, I think MascaratumB is correct. All models have been updated to the new UI.
Wellp, I never (as in ever ever ever) had a twisty turn on either in my pocket or bag. I give it at most a ½-turn tops, usually less, like a ¼-turn. Most notable is my Jet-II, never had it turn on accidentally.
I’ve had side-clickies and tail-clickies both turn on accidentally. Even my ’502 turned into a curling-iron in its holster on my belt when the arm of my chair accidentally bapped it on when I was sitting down.
It’s hard for me to keep up without a scorecard, so I just shrug it off.
Only thing that bugs me is that you get an “X”, but have zero idea if it’s the old X with the green-tinted XP-G3, or the mid-level X that has the notorious loose driver ring but newer XP-L2, or the newer X that fixes the ring issue and has the 4-levels instead of 3-levels UI, or the newest X that has the fixed UI with moonlight and lockout, not counting the newest version that you can get with the Nichia option.
Wtf?!?
So next time GB has an “X” on a flash sale for some unbelievable price, you have no clue from the description which one it is, whether it’s one of the older ones you’d rather avoid even if it were sold at half-price, or one of the newest ones which you’d jump on because it’s the lowest price you’ve ever seen it at.
That’s why I wish flashlight mfrs would change the model numbers to reflect all the changes, so you know which UI it has, which emitter it has, etc. Like version numbers.
Otherwise, you can get a “brand new” X, and it can still be the crappy old version no one wants. Or it could be the older good version before something changed which made the newer versions suck. Etc.
Uh, oh… just ended up ordering a red SP10B. You guys are a bad influence!
Is it easy to identify which driver you have, without having to completely disassemble the light?
Old A driver has L>M>H with hidden strobe, newer B (that apparently they are replacing the old As with) has ML>L>M>H with hidden strobe and lockout function, I believe
No, I understand that. But that’s just UI/firmware. But now Sofirn has applied the new UI/firmware to the old A driver as well, so you would not be able to tell just by looking at the UI.
They are the same driver with different software, if your flashlight works like a B, it has the B software regardless of the print in the flashlight. Unless you mean how to identify it on the listing when you intend to buy one, then I can only assume you have to believe the description/reviews, or shoot the store a message
Based on what was mentioned earlier in this thread, the tint is different between A and B, despite firmware/UI now being the same, unless I misunderstood. That is why I was asking.
It is silk-screened to the component side of the driver, so you would have to disassemble it.
Got my red SP10B today. The finish is quite nice… very dark red. Pictures don’t do it justice, and I struggle to get a photo of it where the red looks like it should.
Here is a tint comparison against Utorch UT01 CW and Jetbeam Jet-1 MK. White balance manually set to 5000K. I think the photo exaggerates the greenish tint of the SP10B. In real life, it’s not that bad.
All in all, a decent light, but a couple of small gripes:
2. Strangely, it does not work with my protected button-top Sanyo 14500P. Thankfully, I can make it work with my flat-top Sanyo 14500 if I attach a small magnet button to the top of it.
Overall, I think I still prefer UT01. Plus, UT01 can be attached to the brim of a hat thanks to its reversible clip.
I’m getting 31 µA on mine.
Was tempted to get a red/blue just to be different.
Wow, mine’s not green at all.
My A is about as green as my Jet-I, but my Bs are quite nice. A bit too cool for my taste (would prefer something around 4500K), but not a hint of green. 5700K sounds about right for mine.
Naw, for me, this is perfect for middle-of-the-night. I’d call it firefly mode rather than moonlight, though.
That’s the problem with people using “moonlight” and “firefly” interchangeably. To me, firefly is dim dim dim, like an actual firefly’s buttocks. Useful for really preserving your vision when fully dark-adapted. And moonlight would be lower-than-low when you might want to light up the path in front of you or see the clock on the opposite wall, etc., as if walking outside on a moonlit night.
I’ve had issues with my A (haven’t tried a B in this regard) starting up from half-spent alkaleaks. Brand-new, never an issue. Used half-spent one, sometimes it’ll come on fine, other times stay off as if the cell’s dead. Remove the cell, “wipe off” the +/- ends with my finger, put back, it’ll likely work… for a while.
I was hoping to burn off those half-spent cells when I don’t care about “turbo” anything, but I guess I’ll just have to use ’em in my bobofett light that I almost retired from non-use.