Remember that Bistro is in basic config like you got it without turbo in regular modes modegroup 11
If you want Turbo included you can use modegroup 4
From moon long press goes to hidden modes starting at turbo
If you fear the AMCs short its possible to cut middle leg with a sharp knife and cover then the rest with epoxy glue
I like to use a copper mcpcb and solder it to the top of the copper pill in the re-flow process. The S2+ I have with Hoop’s pill is making 3029 lumens and I just love it!
Dale, thanks for your compliment, it’s one from Kiriba with filed down notches since it came smooth and i couldn’t figure out how to assemble it without them.
Didn’t spend much time on it yet, since i finished it yesterday evening late, and i’ve got annoyed by the fact that i did not get the switch working again, so have to figure that out first, so another thing to do tonight
Any tips on the switch?
Still not seeing why it doesn’t work
The switch timing is crucial, had to find out with trial an error how long i needed to press.
Apparently, the retaining ring from the switch was not tight enough (although i thought it was quite tight already)
I really like it with the lighted switch, nice touch that it switches off when turned on and lights up when you switch mode.
Also on turbo its very bright, and i am very happy with the tint.
The XPL-Hi 4B tint is slightly warmer then my 5000K Nichia triple and the copper pill does it’s job very well!
Added a Nichia 219C D240 4000K 90CRI to my Utorch UT01. It was purchased with an XP-L 1A 6500K which is way too cool white for me.
Mod was fairly easy too:
Unscrew the bezel and you have loose front glass/oring
Unscrew the reflector which is threaded to the inside of the body tube
Take the centering ring and set it aside so you dont lose it (it’s important)
You can either unsolder the LED wires now or lift the pcb from its base and do it while the pcb is suspended
The LED pcb is not screwed down or anything it only had some thermal paste under it, you can work it out with tweezers from the flat edges and/or the wire holes if you are careful
I cleaned off the paste and reflowed on the stove top. The pcb isnt clearly marked but the anode/positive side is the same side as the positive LED wire mark and the solder they used seemed to be some leaded low(er) heat stuff so it wasn’t too hard to work with
Resolder LED wires and try to stuff them back through the holes. I only got one side completely back in. The other side I folded over and ran the extra along the edge of the PCB leaving room for the centering ring since there is a good size gap between the reflector base and the pcb/body tube.
Centering ring back on > screw reflector back and re-center everything with the last half turn since the pcb is floating on thermal goo > oring > glass > bezel
Put couple of Simon’s lighted switches in. One in a clear C8, one in a short S2±sort of. Anybody know roughly what the current draw is on those? I love them so far.
ETA: According to my cheap HF meter, 7.5 ma. I don’t love them so much now.
Bought a Convoy M1 host and put a 70.2 in there. FET zener modded from MTN. With 2 aspire 18350 it’s pulling 13A at the tail. It gets hot quicker than the D4 but it’s by far my brightest 18650 sized light…by a huge margin! Also replaced the lens with an AR coated one.
“Pill” – I bought a piece of brass, as I didn’t find copper in the adequate diameter; later it was cut in some pieces, tall enough for the height need for a pill to sit over the in-built shelf. I filled it and made a hole in the middle. The rest you see below
The MCPCB used is from Jaxman Store and this is the CW XP-G2, and the TIR optics was also from Jaxman.
I soldered new wires to the driver and re-done the spring bypass as the original was not in place anymore.
I added glow-in-the-dark tape all over the fins and other places, including arount the TIR, on the inside
Thank you Dale
BTW, it is GITD tape, I don’t know how to apply the paint or powder + resin (as CRX makes in some mods), so I opted to use the GITD tape (that I have in almost all my lights ) !
Nice. I was wondering about doing the same thing, since the D4 driver has a spare pin. It could totally have a lighted switch or a super-efficient moon mode. There’s even a pad for it already on the driver, but it’s not connected to anything.
Yes, it’s doable with stock driver, I built the first version this way:
Meanwhile I did some tests with different resistors and found a reasonable configuration with 3k for XP-G2, which results in about 500 uA for a useful brightness.
Pills that were equipped with convoy retaining ring had no slots for unscrewing. I think Ive sold ~100pcs (several assembled) but nobody even asked me how to assemble it. Pretty simple, assemble everything outside host, screw hard driver ring while pill is fixed for cylindrical part, and then use same holes on ring to screw it inside host.
All new pills are equipped with custom rings and both pill and ring have milled slots.
Thanks Dale
I like that background as well, despite sometimes it is hard to make a good colour balance (well, it is juts a cellphone )!
Yup, you did tell me that and that’s the reason why I have your “saying” in my signature, you predicted it all! And inspired it in some way seeing all the nice “enlightened” creatures you bring to us :+1:
Thank you!!!