Let me confuse you a little further 
My red SP10B, has an SP10A driver, with SP10B UI. So yes, I think MascaratumB is correct. All models have been updated to the new UI.
Wellp, I never (as in ever ever ever) had a twisty turn on either in my pocket or bag. I give it at most a ½-turn tops, usually less, like a ¼-turn. Most notable is my Jet-II, never had it turn on accidentally.
I’ve had side-clickies and tail-clickies both turn on accidentally. Even my ’502 turned into a curling-iron in its holster on my belt when the arm of my chair accidentally bapped it on when I was sitting down.
It’s hard for me to keep up without a scorecard, so I just shrug it off.
Only thing that bugs me is that you get an “X”, but have zero idea if it’s the old X with the green-tinted XP-G3, or the mid-level X that has the notorious loose driver ring but newer XP-L2, or the newer X that fixes the ring issue and has the 4-levels instead of 3-levels UI, or the newest X that has the fixed UI with moonlight and lockout, not counting the newest version that you can get with the Nichia option.
Wtf?!?
So next time GB has an “X” on a flash sale for some unbelievable price, you have no clue from the description which one it is, whether it’s one of the older ones you’d rather avoid even if it were sold at half-price, or one of the newest ones which you’d jump on because it’s the lowest price you’ve ever seen it at.
That’s why I wish flashlight mfrs would change the model numbers to reflect all the changes, so you know which UI it has, which emitter it has, etc. Like version numbers.
Otherwise, you can get a “brand new” X, and it can still be the crappy old version no one wants. Or it could be the older good version before something changed which made the newer versions suck. Etc.
Uh, oh… just ended up ordering a red SP10B. You guys are a bad influence! 
Is it easy to identify which driver you have, without having to completely disassemble the light?
Old A driver has L>M>H with hidden strobe, newer B (that apparently they are replacing the old As with) has ML>L>M>H with hidden strobe and lockout function, I believe
No, I understand that. But that’s just UI/firmware. But now Sofirn has applied the new UI/firmware to the old A driver as well, so you would not be able to tell just by looking at the UI.
They are the same driver with different software, if your flashlight works like a B, it has the B software regardless of the print in the flashlight. Unless you mean how to identify it on the listing when you intend to buy one, then I can only assume you have to believe the description/reviews, or shoot the store a message
Based on what was mentioned earlier in this thread, the tint is different between A and B, despite firmware/UI now being the same, unless I misunderstood. That is why I was asking.
It is silk-screened to the component side of the driver, so you would have to disassemble it.
Got my red SP10B today. The finish is quite nice… very dark red. Pictures don’t do it justice, and I struggle to get a photo of it where the red looks like it should.
Here is a tint comparison against Utorch UT01 CW and Jetbeam Jet-1 MK. White balance manually set to 5000K. I think the photo exaggerates the greenish tint of the SP10B. In real life, it’s not that bad.
All in all, a decent light, but a couple of small gripes:
- The moonlight mode appears much lower than the advertised 1 lm. And even when using a Li-Ion cell, it does not look any brighter. It’s so dim, it’s practically unusable.
2. Strangely, it does not work with my protected button-top Sanyo 14500P. Thankfully, I can make it work with my flat-top Sanyo 14500 if I attach a small magnet button to the top of it.
Overall, I think I still prefer UT01. Plus, UT01 can be attached to the brim of a hat thanks to its reversible clip.
I’m getting 31 µA on mine.
Was tempted to get a red/blue just to be different.
Wow, mine’s not green at all.
My A is about as green as my Jet-I, but my Bs are quite nice. A bit too cool for my taste (would prefer something around 4500K), but not a hint of green. 5700K sounds about right for mine.
Naw, for me, this is perfect for middle-of-the-night. I’d call it firefly mode rather than moonlight, though.
That’s the problem with people using “moonlight” and “firefly” interchangeably. To me, firefly is dim dim dim, like an actual firefly’s buttocks. Useful for really preserving your vision when fully dark-adapted. And moonlight would be lower-than-low when you might want to light up the path in front of you or see the clock on the opposite wall, etc., as if walking outside on a moonlit night.
I’ve had issues with my A (haven’t tried a B in this regard) starting up from half-spent alkaleaks. Brand-new, never an issue. Used half-spent one, sometimes it’ll come on fine, other times stay off as if the cell’s dead. Remove the cell, “wipe off” the +/- ends with my finger, put back, it’ll likely work… for a while.
I was hoping to burn off those half-spent cells when I don’t care about “turbo” anything, but I guess I’ll just have to use ’em in my bobofett light that I almost retired from non-use.
Call it what you will. I’m just saying it appears to be well below the stated 1 lm output.
I agree with you Pete!
On RobertB’s thread of the SP10B I stated the exact same thing, the lowest level is lower than the advertised:
I still like the firefly mode, though 
I would only add another level between ML and Low and quit memory! Personal preferences, of course
I got the red SP10B couple days ago,and I am very impressed with the quality and power from xpg2 emitter.
Very strange but I measured 600+ lumens on highest level, very similar to my UT01 with 625 lumens but with XP-l inside ???
Even more strange is the fact that with fully charged 14500 it only takes 1.4Amp on turbo pushing that 600 lumens OTF…
Is this flashlight somehow boosting the power even with the lithium ion battery???
My self built flashlight with same emitter like SP10B and with 1.37A driver is only giving like 330 lumens OTF??
I am confused,but very happy with this flashlight
Compared to SP10B, I get about 15% more light output from UT01, using UR14500P cell.
Make sure your UT01 is programmed for the highest possible output in turbo. It is not programmed that way from the factory.
I have a NW UT01, and output is fine, actually I was the one that discovered selectable outputs on each mode
Still doesn’t have the answer for tailcap reading of only 1,4A on SP10B and 600 lumens with xpg2???
UT01 is taking 2.3A with fresh cell
My UT01 is only drawing about 1.4A with fresh cell.
Does the light turn off after 3 minutes? Quoting this from the specs. (Note: Activate high mode from “off”, after working 3 minutes, the light will turn off;)