FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

For me B/C too.

The list on the Original Post is not updated as The Miller has been away for some time!
Member pepinfaxera is updating the list on this post:

Your name is already there, #782 :wink:

FWIW, here’s the running vote tally…

As a reminder, the options are: (where in the ramp to blink)

  • A. Floor
  • B. ~150 lm, level 65/150
  • C. ~1000 lm, level 130/150 (highest regulated level)
  • D. Ceiling

Totals:

  • A: –4
  • B: 4
  • C: 9
  • D: 2

14 votes:

Yes.

I’ve been meaning to change that, actually… do you think Crescendo should stop at the ends of the ramp? After spending more time on other ramping UIs, I’ve found it’s nice having it stop on its own.

On the FW3A, at least, the plan is for the ramp to stop at both ends. To turn around, release the button and hold it again.

No, it’s a single frame at 62fps, too quick for a human to respond. People aren’t expected to be able to do frame-perfect inputs.

The D4 thing (loosen tailcap, press button, tighten tailcap, to reset to 150 lm) doesn’t work well on the FW3A. It can be done, but it’s a bit more tricky because loosening the tailcap also disconnects the button. To make it work, you either need to wait a while or loosen it while the light is actually on. And then on reconnect, at least on my prototype, sometimes the contact ring gets a bit wonky so I have to loosen/tighten again to re-seat it. I think that’ll be fixed, and it should only affect the first prototype, but I’m not 100% sure yet.

However, for anyone who wants to hit precise levels every time, it also has a stepped ramp which can be configured to your specifications. It can have anywhere from 2 to 150 evenly-spaced steps, starting and ending at any of the 150 levels. The default right now is 7 steps from ~10 lm to ~1000 lm.

See above. :slight_smile:

It has a mode specifically for this purpose. It’s called muggle mode.

The details are still up for debate, but so far this mode is about as simple as it can get. Only one level (150 lm), and the button merely turns it on and off. Once in muggle mode, it stays that way until the battery is removed.

To enter muggle mode, click 6 times from off.

There are basically three simplified UIs:

  • Lockout (4 clicks from off): Acts as a momentary moon mode, using the floor of the current ramp. Click 4 times to exit.
  • Momentary (5 clicks from off): Main emitter is on while button is pressed, or off otherwise. Uses the last-ramped brightness level. Good for Morse code and such. Physically disconnect power to exit.
  • Muggle (6 clicks from off): Extra-simple UI. Useful when non-enthusiasts borrow the light. Physically disconnect power to exit.

Hopefully that covers most needs.

If you aren’t expected to be able to hit the mark then the blink seems a lot less useful to me? It seems like if regulation is very important to someone they could set a ramp ceiling at 130/150 and allow dbl click to 150/150 and ramp down from there for 131-150 or would it not allow that and go from 150 to 130 when you ramp down from turbo?

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Your name is already there N° _ 897 and 898
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. FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #2127 by pepinfaxera
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Tried 6 times from off. Just played with my Q8 and I had to remove the batteries again…

An elderly man can not remember how many times 4-5-6 he has to click on a flashlight mode.

Yes, stopping would be good in my opinion.

It’s a mile marker along the road, not a destination.

What were you trying to do?

+1 here, about Crescendo! And sorry for off-topic!
I’ve been using Crescendo firmware for the last few days and I find it “strange” to reach the bottom/top and then continue to ramp on the opposite direction. Stopping on the top or bottom thresholds would be nice :blush:

It will not be the case of the FW3A, of course! And so far I’m finding this Anduril UI incredible (only by seeing the diagram) :+1:

Ah, you flashed the latest Anduril onto a Q8?

If a light is meant to be owned permanently by someone who needs an extra-simple interface, this might not be a good light for them. It’s meant more for enthusiasts, and muggle mode is intended for the occasions when someone else needs to borrow a light for a few hours or less.

For permanent muggle use I’d suggest something with significantly less power so it won’t be prone to starting fires. Probably something with a built-in charger too. Olight S1R or S20R might be a good option.

However, if it helps, the FW3A can be reflashed with something simpler. There are a few other UIs available already, including an Olight clone. And a simple UI is reasonably simple to make, if anyone wants a muggle-only firmware.

It really depends on the recipient. I’ve known people close to a century old who were sharp as a tack, who could figure out a complex UI with no manual, then use it with ease. I’ve also known people who were totally lost even on simple interfaces, no matter how much others tried to help explain it. In stock form, the FW3A won’t be appropriate for the latter. But it does at least have a short-term use mode that the latter should be okay with.

B, C, & D Please

Best Regards,

George

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C
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Hello!
Id like to be put down for one flashlight, thanks!
Freethink

Thanks, TK. Amazing.

one for me thank you

This looks like a cool light. Though how does this differentiate itself from say, a Jaxman E2L other than 100 more lumens?

Smaller, e-switch + advanced UI, way more than 100 lumens diff unless u mean modded E2L, built for a clip, and the run time should be better than a comparably priced light if it’s 3 channels.

Well then, I think I’d be interested in two of them at the $30.00 ea price range!

Put me on the list for two please!