Hello friend! Began to collect a flashlight sent from Sofirn and found that the electronic button does not have a free wheeling and is not pressed. That is, it stands in one, jammed position. What to do ? Where to buy a similar button? Maybe she understands? I wrote to the seller, I’ll see what answers.
That is some fine machining johnkey! Those switches can be found easily, I’m on my phone now but I will get you a link later.
Why did you choose for a TIR optic?
I can understand going to the Noctigon for it’s 3 oz copper traces, have no idea why the awesome reflector was cut into a spacer in favor of the boring CUTE-3 optics though. The triple reflector is what makes the Sofirn a game changer. Much tighter beam from the reflector. But then, I’ve built so many dozens of CUTE-3 optic triples…
Just goes to show, different strokes for different folks!
Can someone recommend me a driver and mcpcb for 3 xpl hi configuration?
Btw do I need to by extra centering rings for the emitters?
What’s about the lense, is it anti reflective?
I am waiting on my C8F kits (bought TWO) and I'm a newbie-- but I have had great help from several dudes here.
I also was wondering about a driver, but after chatting with Lexel... given my 30Q batteries (and other good high drain batteries available) AND using (3) XP-L2 LEDs (bought from Arrow last week), this light can run true direct drive using just the rear switch (and get a draw of about 12-14 amps into these three LEDs- a nice fit!). I maybe should have gone with XPL-HI LEDs for my application (hunting = throw needed), but I'm going to try the XP-L2 for now and "see" what I get for my pig hunting rig (as I don't shoot pigs past 150 yards anyway).
Lexel sells a cool little C8 "FET tail switch board" (to use with a pressure switch of your choice) for a hunting rig. I am using these for my "Pig Rig" (my 6.8 SPC rifle I shoot pigs with at night) where there is NO loss (not even drain loss) and FULL output is the result (since higher current lights otherwise lose a LOT taking the trip down the 16" or thinner wire and back on your run-of-the-mill pressure switches out there).
So my "Rev A" plan (was)... Use these FET tailboards as my ONLY switch in my C8Fs and going DD (Direct Drive). I WAS originally building for hunting ONLY-- as I wanted NO modes- just FULL on and FULL off for hunting.
But... I was ALSO JUST told by Lexel (nice guy, I ask him way too many questions- poor guy ) that I can ALSO use his Narsil driver too. This driver can be set-up for ONE mode (on and off) or run other modes. I thought it through and going with this driver is probably a better option to running pure DD... especially if you want some protection features for the batteries. Lexel said I can hunt with his FET pressure switch (using just the on/off full Turbo mode), but when done hunting- replace the original rear switch (going back to stock) and THEN... this C8F with his Narsil driver would ALSO work with the side switch (in any mode). :THUMBS-UP:
So I'm now going to buy a pair of Lexel's drivers as they will give me a light that will be useful to me the other 10 months of the year I am not pig hunting ;).
All I have to do is build a few tail switches (I have the FET boards, just waiting on the C8Fs kits so I can get started) and I can use the ones that come with the kit, OR buy a spare tail switch or two (or in my case, I HOPE to use the spare C8s tail switches in my spare parts drawer for the FET mods-- but have to see IF THEY FIT this C8F first!) Come on Sofirn Boat! FULL speed ahead please!